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I am in the process of wrapping up the things I need to do to get my truck fired up and moving under it's own power. One of those things is getting a new transfer case shifter and linkage done. I mocked up the old shifter on my new trans shifter bracket today. I was wondering if someone would be so kind as to take photos of their transfer case in each position and say which position it is. I just want to make sure I've got everything working right.
I didn't think to do it before I removed the stock stuff.
I wasn't able to find the info in a search. I suppose I could pry the linkage out into each position and figure it out, but I thought someone with a stock setup might be able to make it easier on me.
So, if someone could help out, I'd appreciate it.
Here is a photo I shot today with the new trans, trans shifter, and old transfer case shifter mocked up. I'll be changing the transfer case shifter arm.
It's a simple linear shift pattern - straight from front to back - and it's marked on the shift **** which way to go for each gear or neutral. I guess I don't understand what you're looking for. I don't think you'll be able to tell much by looking at my seemingly shorter (stock) shift lever positions with a stock setup and there is a spring-loaded ball detent at each location as you shift. All the way forward until it stops is 4L and all the way back is 4H, with N and 2H being in between. It's not synchronized so to shift into a gear or change from one gear to another they recommend coming to a complete stop. Shifting out of gear is optional if you stop or not.
To adjust pull the crossbar out all of the way on the transfer case and adjust the shift rod shackle in or out to allow it to be all the way forward. In your situation with a non-stock transmission you may need to modify the length of the shift rod. I'd ensure I could shift all the way forward and all the way back before committing to a length.
The crossbar and how the linkage attaches does move both shift rails the same amount in the same direction at the same time. There are interlocks on the shift rails to help keep them in sync with one another.
There is an advanced modification called twin-sticking which allows for each shift rail to be shifted somewhat independently of each other thus allowing extra combinations than the default factory setup - such as locking in the front axle while disengaging the rear axle. I'm not recommending this modification since if done incorrectly it can lead to more problems including tearing up the transfer case, just letting you know about it since you may hear about it along the way. It involves removing and modifying the shift rails by grinding some of the interlocks to different shapes.
The only reason for twin stick and removing interlocks is hard core off-roading. On my old ****** jeeps I pulled the interlock to allow 2WD in low range. With lockers in both axles it makes it harder to turn so being able to shift out of 4WD and stay in low range has advantages.
To adjust pull the crossbar out all of the way on the transfer case and adjust the shift rod shackle in or out to allow it to be all the way forward. In your situation with a non-stock transmission you may need to modify the length of the shift rod. I'd ensure I could shift all the way forward and all the way back before committing to a length.
2X on this. On mine, which is not 100% stock, and another guy I helped adjust the shifting, I've found that just about every mm of travel at the stick is required to get from 4L to 4H. And you might hit the dash or the seat trying to make it all work. Not a lot of room for error.
Another thing - my biggest source or rattles in the cab came from that linkage. Took me awhile to figure that out. I've done various things to keep it quiet.
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