Been tinkering with the truck again trying to get everything dialed in. Trying to figure out why my ebp sensor runs about 4 psi above my map and baro. From what I've read they should be close to 1:1 key on engine off right? Key on engine off I get 14.6 baro,14.1 map, and 17.7 ebp. At idle I'm getting 14.6 baro 14.1 map and 18.5 ebp. WOT looks like I peak around 30.5 map and 50.3 ebp. These numbers were taken running on stock tune. Running a 6637 filter, Stock exhaust.
Below are a few snips from my forscan data. The first is idle with a few bumps of the skinny pedal. The second is a wot run. Any ideas? Just looking for someone to point me in the right direction. Truck runs well enough, Ive had this problem since I got it. Trying to improve my fuel milage a little getting around 12 mpg right now.

idle with small pedal tap

wot

 

Have you made sure the tube isn't stopped andly and flows good. Also the fitting in the manifold will stop up also. Possibly it's restricting flow and holding pressure slightly? Something to jsut check. Next guess would be swap sensor. Mime reads pretty much 1:1 until boost gets higher then it starts to climb.

 

Since the EBP is responding to changing conditions that indicates the tube is clear and the wiring is good. But 17.7 psi is just plain wrong, like 5000 feet below sea level. Sensor looks biased.

I'd replace that sensor with a known quality part.

Use a wrench to support the bracket under the sensor when cranking off the sensor. The bracket is kinda flimsy and it can bend if the sensor is stuck.

Edit: Tpayne beat me

 

Guess I'll pop it out and clean it while I wait for a new one to arrive. Best case it fixes it or atleast makes the new install easier. Worst case i break it and have a good excuse for some packages to show up.

 

Yes, on a cold engine with the ignition ON and the engine OFF, MAP, BARO and EBP should be within .5 PSI of each other. If one is askew, then it is suspected as being faulty.

While testing the EBP vs MAP is going to be off unless your forced air induction system is in good shape, including the drive pressure and up-pipes. Below is a snip of a video I took after installing a T4 kit and a Borg Warner turbo. You can see from the dials in the top right MAP, EBP and Boost are right there for easy comparison.

This is cruising at 67 MPH towing a 5th wheel. You can see that MAP and EBP are 1:1, which is ideal. Even on a very well flowing forced air induction system it is difficult to get a 1:1 ratio when accelerating or running the engine at or near maximum effort.



The fellas above have some good ideas for you and I will tell you that a clogged tube or sensor port is the most common failure point for the EBPS. I had to replace my sensor after attempting to clean it out. David was kind enough to send you a link to a reputable shop that we as a community trust. There are a few out there that we trust, but thousands that we do NOT trust.

Don't skimp and try to use Amazon or eBay. The counterfeit parts are becoming a big problem due to nearly being clones with their packaging and build appearance. They are not the same though...

Keep us updated!

 

I buy alot from clay. I try to stay away from the cheap chinesium. Figure I'll order a tube, a pigtail and a brack. Maybe a few other goodies aswell. I've got all my boost leaks cleaned up. For nearly 600k the truck runs really well. Driving it around today on the stock tune was fun. I forgot how much of a slug she can be.