Root Beer Float
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 425
Likes: 72
From: Aroostook County, Maine
1st photo is after 6 drain/fill sequences (2 more after above photo). No traces of oil, but plenty of sediment. The 2nd photo is a sample of the 7th drain allowed to settle. The amount of sediment in this system was off the charts. Once I got a better idea of what I was dealing with now, off came the top hose, directed it to ground, and ran the truck for 90 minutes as a once through system. Another 30 closed back up, then drained. Fortunately the cloudiness/sediment was gone - which was my biggest concern. Then 4 fill/drains with distilled (15 min of running in-between). Added 4 gall of ELC. This will get me through the -40F winter. Need to swap out the rad anyway, so I will be doing this all over again in the Spring. At that time I can pull the block plugs.
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So you did cap off the lines at the rad and looped the lines at the transmission then I take it?
Also ELC is still not recommended AFAIK for early 99 engines that fall back behind a certain engine serial number. Even my 1/99 build late 99 still calls for the green stuff. As much as I'd love to switch over to the maintenance free red stuff I don't think I'm going to risk messing with that.
Also ELC is still not recommended AFAIK for early 99 engines that fall back behind a certain engine serial number. Even my 1/99 build late 99 still calls for the green stuff. As much as I'd love to switch over to the maintenance free red stuff I don't think I'm going to risk messing with that.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 425
Likes: 72
From: Aroostook County, Maine
So you did cap off the lines at the rad and looped the lines at the transmission then I take it?
Also ELC is still not recommended AFAIK for early 99 engines that fall back behind a certain engine serial number. Even my 1/99 build late 99 still calls for the green stuff. As much as I'd love to switch over to the maintenance free red stuff I don't think I'm going to risk messing with that.
Also ELC is still not recommended AFAIK for early 99 engines that fall back behind a certain engine serial number. Even my 1/99 build late 99 still calls for the green stuff. As much as I'd love to switch over to the maintenance free red stuff I don't think I'm going to risk messing with that.
I should be clear: this is on my new to me 2002. I had to retire e99 a few months ago due to heavy rust through on frame. It was a sad day to see it on a flatbed headed to the great rust graveyard in the sky. But I was able to ransack it for all sorts of goodies and spares for the 2002, so there's that.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 425
Likes: 72
From: Aroostook County, Maine
A garage not big enough, temperature in the 20's, snow on the ground, and in a hurry. A recipe for trouble - for me anyways. When I did my e99 last year, I was replacing the oil cooler and starter anyways, so it gave me the opportunity to loosen them up with better accessibility. I'm glad I did because both were a bear to loosen up.
A garage not big enough, temperature in the 20's, snow on the ground, and in a hurry. A recipe for trouble - for me anyways. When I did my e99 last year, I was replacing the oil cooler and starter anyways, so it gave me the opportunity to loosen them up with better accessibility. I'm glad I did because both were a bear to loosen up.
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Joined: Dec 2018
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I hear ya. I don't even have a garage and the weather starts to become a problem this time of year for truck repair projects. Especially this week lol...no thanks. Still trying to decide if resealing my own oil cooler and saving $400 on the labor bill will happen by the end of the month. Picked the parts up yesterday.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 425
Likes: 72
From: Aroostook County, Maine
FWIW, I replaced the oil cooler on my now departed e99 nearly 2 years ago. 185k miles on it. At the end of the day, I could have gotten away with just doing the seals/o-rings. The heat exchanger itself was in pretty decent shape and was not leaking from water to oil (or vice versa). If I had not already sprung for a new one (not too mention missing the return window), I would have had no prob re-using it after a good clean-up.
i feel your pain on the lack of a garage. I have one, but other than a small car, a pickup will not fit in there to either have some room to maneuver or be able to close the door.
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It already mushroomed into an extra parts bill from Riff-Riff-Clause for one of these and one of these after realizing the lower rad hose and rusty J-pipe coming off the bottom of the water pump would be a good idea to take off anyway to get to the two front oil cooler bolts. Updated design I think they started in 2002+ and should look nice, but I think I'd stop there with the mission creep. Rest of the cooling system has all been replaced or refreshed recently. Block heater element still works fine and I wouldn't try to replace it even if it didn't. Some people have stripped the threads out of those housings trying to remove them and ended up having to replace that whole end of the deal...a $300+ dollar part even from Riff-Riff. Have no reason to suspect the oil cooler itself isn't reusable, as you found out. I may slap a coat of "POOR" 15 on it just for fun if I do it and polish the aluminum end brackets. (No way you're paying somebody else to go into that kind of painstaking detail on a repair job)
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Heaven for me would be to have these, and every other car made, to be able to function independently of having any sort of circuit board involved with the daily operation of the vehicle.
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