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Just got home from a 6000 mile trip. 200 miles from home the CEL started flashing intermittently. No CEL when coasting, flashing CEL under load. Engine vibration from idle to 2000rpm, smooth but short of power above. Made it home like that and I hope the cat isn’t too much worse for the wear. I guess it’s time for a coil. Time for tires and an alignment too. The front inside shoulders are bald.
That DTC definitely refers to the #1 cylinder COP is having an issue. If it seems to self-correct and/or the CEL stays illuminated constantly there is a problem within that circuit. It could be the coil itself or it could be the chassis wiring harness connector or it could be the spark plug boot.
Until you dig into this more fully anything offered here is speculation or guessing.
Of course you know the flashing check engine light means impending converter damage
You do not mention how many miles or when the last tune up was done
Better start with pulling the number 1 plug and inspecting it and the coil boots
Swap the #1 coil to #2 as a test
Knocking on 190K miles. Owned since about 170K miles. I’ve only changed engine oil, transmission fluid and air filter in the last 20K miles. And shocks.
Everything else about this van shows fleet ownership through 170K miles. I was planning to change the plugs at 200K miles.
This is plug 1 -
I measure .083”/2.05mm
Whats the blue stuff on the contact pin? Feels more like dry toothpaste than corrosion.
The boot remained on the plug when I removed main coil body. A spring stayed attached to the coil body. The spring slips loosely over the plug contact pin. Should there be some interference or should there be a terminal between the spring and the plug?
Is this an OE coil? I read about a yellow dot on OE coils. I don’t see any yellow dot here -
I guess it’s time for plugs which looks more tedious than on a 5.8 or B3500 360 :/
Can I stay with Motorcraft AGSF 22N plugs? I read some unhappy comments about Motorcraft plugs.
Hmm… AGSF 22N aren’t platinum. AGSF 22WP or SP479 it is.
Looks like boot tension pushes the spring onto the base of the connector. No interference or friction between the spring end and contact pin. No terminal on the spring either.
The center electrode is worn and the plug looks real old
The gap gets big when the plug wears down the center electrode
You had better tune it up and replace all the coil boots
Go from there on the coils
Stick with Motorcraft plugs in your Ford
Disregard whatever you have read
I used to watch the I/M numbers go up with any other plug than Motorcraft in a Ford
You don't want the check engine light coming on and a miss right?
I installed Motorcraft platinums and the old coils for kicks. Still a stumble under load but no CEL, flashing or solid on a quick trip around the block. I’ll replace the #1 coil tomorrow.
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