Hey guys sorry to do this to you but I am new to the 6.0 world and have some questions and yes I’m sure they’ve been answered but quite frankly there are soooo many no start threads I have problems getting the exact advice I personally need.

So recently I bought an 04 1/2 F350, it has the 6.0 with 167k miles. The service record shows it was maintained well before me and it has been deleted but not studded.

I bought it and drove 200 miles home with zero issues but as luck would have it the next day at home it all started being 6.0ish for me.

I was driving when and when I began to slow down and turn right onto a road it stalled out and died. I waiting about 20 min and it started up and I was on my way. The next day same thing same
street, but this time I had to wait until the next day for it start. Then the next day I drove it home and it and left it alone. Then it wouldn’t start for about three days. Finally it started again and I test drove it only for it to stall and die when I returned home and turned into my driveway.

i bought a Obd2 Bluetooth dongle and got the torque app all set up. The truck is sending a Icp code and I noticed the Icp isn’t showing voltage. I waited until this morning and it cranked up still showing no Icp voltage so I know the hpop reading isn’t true although it shows good values.

Would a bad Icp cause random start/no start issues?

Could it be something in the wiring causing it to stall because it seems to do it when I turn right?

Also side note I changed all the fluids they looked good but the oil return tube that the filter goes on was missing the spring thing on top of it so I bought a new one and installed it with no changes but I also noticed the little spring thing in the bottom of the oil filter reservoir was actually broken and the spring is
just sitting in there. The black part is broken at the bottom and doesn’t stay attached firmly to the reservoir. Could that be an issue?

I figure I will replace the Icp and hope that the wiring is good and pull the ipr valve as well to see if it is damaged or dirty some time this weekend.

Any and all advice in the direction I should go is greatly appreciated.

 

From my own experience, a right turn stall is due to an internal harness issue. If the PCM gets a wonky sensor reading or a short which gives it a high voltage 12v on the 5v reference circuit or a short to ground, it's going to stall. If the wires continue to touch, you can have a no start or start and stall. This issue is usually in the main harness under the air cleaner, or where the harness goes over the valve cover.

Another problematic wiring issue is the ICP wire and connector. Those can be repaired with a sliced in new connection. If the sensor is leaking oil into the electrical connector, this can be the cause.

All the early harnesses had issues of shorting or breaking wires, and unfortunately, it doesn't look like they are being made anymore. Or for some time.

It's time to get real comfortable with a good automotive ohm/volt meter.

As far as the oil filter situation, it's best to take images and post them. Many people have had issues, and post a picture of your oil filter cap. That can be an issue.

Many people here can help with all that. Welcome aboard.

 

Thank you! I’ll look at the harness tomorrow and see if I can find any bad spots. And I’ll try to get some
photos too.

 

Hopefully it is just the ICP sensor as suggested above. Checking for codes (as you did) is VERY helpful sometimes when dealing with wiring shorts (chafes)!

One of the first things to check when an engine dies when turning is the fuel level. A fuel tank level at or below 1/4 tank might cause a stall when turning if the pick-up tube is broken.

This is by no means a complete list - many wiring issues are a pain.
I'll change the text to red for some that would seem to happen when turning.

Wire Chafing Locations (Closely inspect wiring when you have injector DTCs):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...re_chafing.pdf​

• ICP sensor connector or wiring - usually the 03 and early 04 engines are more prone to these issues.
• Upper left valve cover or valve cover stud near the FICM (injector harness).​
• IPR harness - near rear intake stud; Also heat from the turbo can ruin the insulation around the wires.​
• Exhaust Pressure (EBP) sensor bracket at thermostat housing​.
• Accelerator Pedal pivot point (under dash) at steering column - adjustable pedals only.
• 12A581 harness (engine harness that goes across the back of the engine compartment, over the turbo, in the plastic harness tray). The plastic tray gets brittle and fails. When it does, the wires get too close to the turbo heat and they can be damaged.​
• Near the steering column, where it goes through the firewall.​
• Front left of intake manifold near breather tube and air inlet duct​. Left front valve cover hold down bolts/studs.
• CKP wiring near A/C compressor and belt tensioner​. Also, sometimes the CKP sensor itself leaks oil and damages the connector and an intermittent short can result.
• Under the Air Filter canister - harness chafe's on a stud when pinched by the air filter case. Corner of the valve cover. Or the intake manifold bolts where the harness routes under the air intake hose.​
• CMP wire can get pinched in between the intake manifold and the radiator hose port on the front cover.​ Also, sometimes the CMP sensor itself leaks oil and damages the connector and an intermittent short can result.
• Not an electrical problem exactly, but sometimes rust on the block where the CMP sensor is mounted can push the sensor out just far enough to cause intermittent engine stalls (dying).
• Idler pulley under the thermostat (wiring routed around the power steering pump). The CMP sensor wiring is in this "bundle", and a chafe here can throw a P0341 CMP electrical code. The wiring to the CMP is routed around the power steering pump.​
• Right valve cover at glow plug control module (GPCM) and around the glow plug relay bracket.​
• PCM harness at battery box, or at/near the PCM.​
• PCM harness near the relay box brackets at the left rear corner of the engine compartment.​
• Check injector harnesses and FICM harness for backed out or bent pins or bad wiring.
• Wiring to #5 injector. (3rd back passenger side) the heater hose clamp rubs through on the early build units.​
• On Econolines, also inspect at the top edge of the computer, along the oil dipstick tube bracket and auxiliary A/C lines.​
• Check near C145 which is near the fire wall on the drivers side, not far from the BJB (Battery Junction Box). Also 14A067 (BJB) wiring, circuit 1044 (WH/YE wire), under the BJB (left rear corner of engine compartment).​
• Fan clutch wiring has been damaged by the fan, or maybe the fan clutch itself has an internal short.

 

I was hoping Mark would add his accumulated list. It's a good list.

 

I have not paid enough attention to the specific "died while turning" solutions. Going off of memory on several of them. Would like to have links to threads, but maybe in the future.

Thanks for the compliment Jack.

 

My original '03 harness had this issue. Hard rights, at slow to high speeds, it would just cut out. PITA on the decreasing radius turn off the Garden State Parkway almost home. I usually take that at a higher speed than most people will; it is a yield merge into a two lane 50mph highway and in the turn you can see the oncoming traffic which is usually busy. So to merge you either need to wait for a long interval, or be up to speed so it's easier to merge in. Engine sometimes would kick out, but move to neutral and restart would get you back. But you've lost speed. Limiting the speed, limiting the side force, could get me through. With a new harness, never again happened.

 

Just re-read your original post.

Since you are removing the IPR valve, and the truck condition really is an unknown being a new purchase, I would recommend buying a new OEM IPR valve and installing it. That way you can be sure it is a good part and will be reliable. I say this ONLY because it is a pain to get to that part and very few people will have tools to do that job on a trip - far from home. Be sure to check the wiring to the IPR....MANY times the heat really does a number on that particular harness.

Also, sometimes people crank down too hard on the IPR when installing. That can actually put the IPR valve in a bit of a bind. The o-ring does the sealing so just a reasonable amount of torque (hand tight) is needed. If the IPR valve binds or sticks, it can cause an engine stall.

I have to laugh at your statement about "there are soooo many no start threads I have problems getting the exact advice I personally need"! You are 100% correct. Many people come hear and want a quick fix recommendation on ONLY their "No Start" opening statement. They do not want to do any troubleshooting. Compliments to you for already having Torque Pro and starting your own process of troubleshooting. It gets expensive when people guess. I see very few knowledgeable people wanting to guess at a solution on this (and other) forums.

We really don't like recommending parts change out, only to see that it did not help. That said - sometimes replacing an old part on an "educated" guess is what you have to do. These beasts can get complicated.

 

Okay so update…

Today I pulled the Icp sensor to bench test it and seen that one of the pins were bent so straitened it out and reinstalled it and now I am showing Icp voltage.

I figured surely that will fix it so I drove it about 5 miles with no issues. However, when I returned home it promptly died again when I turned into the driveway, and now won’t start again.

Here are my numbers using torque pro


Key on engine off

Key on engine on

Driving 70mph at 2k RPM

Key on engine off after it stopped running

While trying to restart after it died.

I am at a loss. Again it just died while coasting into the driveway, when I turned into the driveway. It’s like when the rpm’s drop the injectors just stop firing instead of them catching up and idling as normal.


Thanks for all the input so far.

 

Interesting that we focused on the dying in a turn (I guess it was lack of ICP sensor voltage that caused us to focus on electrical), when it appears that the actual issue was dying when the engine slowed down and rpms dropped. Dying when rpms drop is usually an issue with the pressure in the high pressure oil system.

Surely you know that you need 500 psi of ICP pressure to start! You have done a big part of the work getting the data you posted.

Clearly you aren't getting that! Are you using an aftermarket oil filter cap?

Do you know that the dummy plugs and standpipes have been upgraded?

 

Yes I realize that. I am at a loss on what to check next.

The oil filler cap is a factory cap, the previous owner told me I needed to always keep that cap and not try a aftermarket cap.

As far as I know the stand pipes and dummy plugs are all original to the motor.

I have never worked on a diesel before so this is all new to me. I’m just doing what I have learned on YouTube lol. So with this data can we rule anything out, and point me in the right direction. Thanks again.

 

Is your oil pressure gauge on the dash coming up when you crank? Might have to crank 10-15 seconds to see it.

With low pressure in the HPO system, the next step usually is a leak test with shop air (120 psi or so). Good to do it with the valve covers off.

 

When I first got the truck the oil pressure gauge went to zero when I first got home. I called the previous owner obviously pissed off. His statement was if it wasn’t getting oil pressure it wouldn’t be running. At the time it was still running.

So I purchased a new oil sending unit and put in it and the gauge started working again. However it does seem to take it’s time to pop up after the truck starts running.

Currently while attempting to crank it the oil pressure gauge does not move up.

 

That statement is absolutely NOT true all the time. The engine CAN run with base oil pressure WAY below what you need for good engine lubrication. Too many really talented Techs have documented it.

You might pull the low pressure oil pressure regulator (down by the harmonic balancer) and inspect it.

 

Okay I’ll pull it tomorrow and check it out, anything particular to look for?