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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Yet another no start issue… sorry.

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Old Oct 22, 2022 | 09:10 PM
  #16  
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Foreign material - trash, evidence of metal, or (hopefully not) needle bearings.

There are videos on doing this if you would like to watch one. DieselTechRon has one IIRC.

If the regulator looks good, then time for the air test.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2022 | 09:23 PM
  #17  
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I watched the video from diesel tech Ron and I remember when changing oil return tube because I noticed it was missing the top of it and the spring as shown in the pic the part missing is in red





i noticed that the relief valve was kind of floppy so I touched it and it fell over. I then pulled it out and noticed it was missing the little legs (highlighted in red) and I don’t remember if it had the small spring part inside it but I didn’t really look either.

i just gently placed it back over the hole and hoped for the best but now the more I learn, could I be losing pressure through it?


Those little legs broke off there was only one leg.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2022 | 09:35 PM
  #18  
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Yes those components might be causing your issues if they have failed, or at least that drain valve could be.

The oil filter standpipes break because of aftermarket oil filters (why we ask about the cap and filters), or from the oil getting too hot.

Anyway, they are important, so they need to be replaced with OEM parts.

Oil filter Housing standpipe -----> 3C3Z-6C755-AA

Oil filter housing drain valve (oil filter drain valve). This is the valve that the oil filter keeps closed. ----------> 3C3Z-6800-A (updated part)
 
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Old Oct 23, 2022 | 07:01 PM
  #19  
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Might I suggest switching Forscan Lite, as it would give you data logging capabilities. You just need to get it from the Google play store.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2022 | 08:09 AM
  #20  
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Just and update, I changed the oil filter drain valve the old one crumbled when I took it out, thought that might be the issue but it wasn’t, same symptoms.

I then decided to pull the ipr valve and check it. It was a chore and some people make it look easy but my arms are too big to take any short cuts but I got it out finally.

I found that the screen was missing from the valve and lodged down in the hole it came out of. After a little bit of finesse I managed to get it out. Decided to go ahead and replace the ipr since it very well could’ve been compromised.

While I had it all apart I went ahead and tried a known good FICM that a friend loaned me.

After zipping it all back up, I thought surely that ipr valve was the issue. It fired right up and ran great but after getting it to operating temp and shutting her down I was getting about 150psi pressure and it wouldn’t crank back up.

So, my next step would be to pull it all apart again and do a air pressure test on the high pressure system correct?

One thing that really bothers me is that the oil pressure gauge in the dash never goes up until the truck is running. It won’t go up while trying to crank. Could I have a lpop issue causing the hpop to not work?

is there a way to check the true low pressure, oil pressure with a gauge or scan tool?

Thanks again.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2022 | 09:26 AM
  #21  
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A quick check first would be to pull the oil pressure regulator from behind and under the harmonic balancer and see if any debris are hanging it up.

To check oil pressure with a gauge, you could get an aluminum filter cap with a port on the top to put a gauge or sensor. The second is to put an adaptor or buy the expensive connector for the oil pressure test port under the intake.



 
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Old Oct 27, 2022 | 12:33 PM
  #22  
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I pulled the regulator and didn’t see any debris
 
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Old Oct 29, 2022 | 09:39 PM
  #23  
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Okay so today I pulled the valve covers and found that the stand pipe and dummy plugs have been upgraded and looked to be in good condition, so I then decided to pull the ipr valve again and try a pressure test. When I put air to the system it sounds like there is a huge hole in the center rear area. So now I’m thinking either stc fitting, bad hpop or a hole
in my motor. I dunno. I guess all i can do now is tear it down further. What are your thoughts?
 
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 02:48 PM
  #24  
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So I got the hpop cover off I apparently have the old style hpop. I don’t really know how to pressure test it with the cover off so I just put a rubber nozzle on the port on the top side and shoot my air to it. It seems to me like the air is leaking somewhere between the pump and the gear. Is that a thing? Possible bad hpop? Also what else should I go ahead and change while I am in here. Thanks!
 
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 03:35 PM
  #25  
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EVERY '04 has the old style HPOP
 
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 03:37 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by bismic
EVERY '04 has the old style HPOP
Learning something new everyday. For some reason I was under the impression later model 04s had the new style.

So are the older ones expected more to go bad?
 
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 03:42 PM
  #27  
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The ONLY thing that was done for the later '04 HPOP's was to slightly increase their capacity for the extra volume in the wavy oil rails. The pump design and internal "mechanics" are the same. They have the same POOR reliability as the early ones. IMO the only early HPOP worth having is the one from DieselSite, OR the one from CNCFab.

That internet myth is prolific unfortunately. Probably won't ever die.

The cast iron V4 style HPOP was in '05 and up - period.

When you put air into the IPR opening, it is not a valid test unless you have the special fitting - specifically made for the air test. Just blowing air into the port where the IPR "screws into" doesn't tell you anything.

In the case of your problems, are you sure that the leak wasn't on the quick connect fitting (J tube) at the HPOP discharge? If it isn't that, then there is a good chance it is the HPOP. Usually on those early HPOPs there is a plug (actually a ball bearing) that blows out. That "press fit plug" is on the suction side, so it can impact the base oil pressure when it blows out.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 06:07 PM
  #28  
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Thanks, how do you test it with the cover off? I have the fitting that screws into the ipr valve location but when I take the cover off obviously it comes off with it. So the way I tested it was taking a hose fitting that is a large rubber plug and plugging it into the top. When I ran the test using the ipr valve fitting I could hear air rushing out underneath the hpop cover that’s why I tore it apart.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 06:29 PM
  #29  
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I was referring to testing through the IPR port, which is on the cover. With the cover off, you can pressure up from the pump discharge (apparently this is what you did). When you hear a lot of air flow with that test, it is the ball bearing that has come out, and/or the suction o-ring is bad. Either way that much air shouldn't flow backwards through the pump.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 08:50 PM
  #30  
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This is the ball bearing that Mark is talking about. It is pressed in during the manufacturing process.

Rob


 
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