92 Ranger
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More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 551
Likes: 151
From: King and Queen Virginia
92 Ranger
92 Ranger 3.0 RWD Automatic.
Working on the daughters truck some. I had to replace a couple of dash illumination bulbs in her dash no big deal.
I tested and checked all the other bulbs and they are good.
My problem is when you put truck in Run position the Red Brake light is not coming on nor does it come on when cranking the motor up.
It also does not come on when you apply the parking brake.All the fuses are good checked them with meter.
Tim
Working on the daughters truck some. I had to replace a couple of dash illumination bulbs in her dash no big deal.
I tested and checked all the other bulbs and they are good.
My problem is when you put truck in Run position the Red Brake light is not coming on nor does it come on when cranking the motor up.
It also does not come on when you apply the parking brake.All the fuses are good checked them with meter.
Tim
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More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 551
Likes: 151
From: King and Queen Virginia
Will check the wire at that switch tomorrow. I thought the parking brake closed to ground to activate the warning light. I would not think a broken wire at the parking brake switch would stop the Warning Lights Self Test when you are starting. I am more concerned with getting it to self test on dash than work with the parking break at the moment,
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More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 551
Likes: 151
From: King and Queen Virginia
Wire was on switch but a little corrosion on the terminal. Cleaned it and got that portion working. New switch will be ordered after I finish testing other components to add to order if needed.
I still have no red warning brake light when I crank the truck it should be doing a lamp test when cranking. Also it will not turn on when I push float down in master cylinder.
I also have ABS light on but that will be diagnosed after getting the other fixed. The master cylinder went dry of fluid due to brake line replacement by previous owner and it could just be air in ABS valve but brakes are working fine. I think it going to need a new ABS hydraulic unit.
I still have no red warning brake light when I crank the truck it should be doing a lamp test when cranking. Also it will not turn on when I push float down in master cylinder.
I also have ABS light on but that will be diagnosed after getting the other fixed. The master cylinder went dry of fluid due to brake line replacement by previous owner and it could just be air in ABS valve but brakes are working fine. I think it going to need a new ABS hydraulic unit.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
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From: SW Va
I see you found & fixed one of the problems while I was away trying to find info on where to locate a OBD-1 Ranger ABS diagnostics connector. I could remember it was on the drivers side, but couldn't remember what the connector looked like, wire color or exactly where it was located, but found this video that shows everything you'll likely need to know to pull the OBD-1 92 Rangers ABS codes, if any are stored. More troubleshooting inputs for consideration, let us know how it goes.
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More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 551
Likes: 151
From: King and Queen Virginia
Well I think I found my trouble in the brake fluid low warning switch. They were corroded terrible and I got them cleaned up enough to run test with multi meter on reed switch.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
That float switch sticking is a common problem with a dash Red brake low fluid warning light lit & corrosion you found on the connector contacts is a no:no. CRC spray electrical contact cleaner & a old toothbrush should be able to tidy up the corruption. Make sure the fluid isn't low, then exercise the float some to see if you can wake up the contacts to turn off the light.
More thoughts for consideration. let us know how it goes.
More thoughts for consideration. let us know how it goes.
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More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 551
Likes: 151
From: King and Queen Virginia
pawpaw,
My original problem was I had no red brake light when starting or when key on and ABS light was on. So I went thru testing the circuits. I found corrosion at the park break switch got that cleaned up and it started working. Went on to the low fluid switch it was corroded so bad could not get any readings with multi meter.
I took the low fluid reed switch off MC and cleaned the contacts on it and also cleaned the connector female sockets. Testing the low fluid break light switch on the bench and
1) I had intermittent connection between the 2 pins that are jumped together inside the switch
2) The reed switch had intermittent connection. I worked it with a magnet for about 15 minutes on bench but never got it to act correctly.
New park brake switch and low brake fluid switch on order from Ford.
My original problem was I had no red brake light when starting or when key on and ABS light was on. So I went thru testing the circuits. I found corrosion at the park break switch got that cleaned up and it started working. Went on to the low fluid switch it was corroded so bad could not get any readings with multi meter.
I took the low fluid reed switch off MC and cleaned the contacts on it and also cleaned the connector female sockets. Testing the low fluid break light switch on the bench and
1) I had intermittent connection between the 2 pins that are jumped together inside the switch
2) The reed switch had intermittent connection. I worked it with a magnet for about 15 minutes on bench but never got it to act correctly.
New park brake switch and low brake fluid switch on order from Ford.
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