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It's time to put injectors on my truck so it will actually work this winter. I ordered Bitterroot 160cc/30% injectors and a KC stage 1 turbo with up pipes. I'm also replacing the original fuel pump and doing the in-tank mods at the same time. I was looking at pump options and wondered if I should buy the Motorcraft replacement for close to 400 bucks or if the Bosch replacement is acceptable or the same actual part in reality for around 100?
Bosh is oem, likely the motorcraft is the entire assembly and not Just the pump so a replacement Bosch would be just fine.
unless you’re having issues with your pump itself I wouldnt even touch it there’s no point you’re just as likely to have an issue after putting a new one in, as with the one that’s been working fine for 20 years
Aka if it aint broke dont fix it
Yeah I figured Bosch would likely be the original part anyway but thanks for the confirmation. Indeed the Mcraft part is the whole show with the holder and hardware and harness etc. I plan to reuse that stuff.
I've read for years that new injectors should be accompanied by a fresh fuel pump but interested to hear other thoughts too. Mine might be original for all I know with 277k miles on it. I'd like to be sure its able to provide the proper fuel pressure to the new injectors so the fuel side doesn't get hurt right off the bat...
Install a post filter fuel pressure gauge before you swap it all, then leave it there so you always know.
You cant just install a new pump and assume you will have better, or even correct fuel pressure
A fuel pressure gauge, in my mind, is the most important gauge to have, I even rank it more important then an egt gauge
If you remove the OEM fuel pump and examine it like I did, I found "Bosch" mixed in with the labeling. Also, I operated an auto repair shop for 28 years and the brand the gave me the least amount of trouble, (make that no trouble at all in the form of comebacks), was Bosch. With that said, I can fully recommend the Bosch pump.
I would also recommend checking your pressure at the fuel bowl and not changing until you see an issue since they tend to be a high mileage part. Replacing just the pump from Bosch is a good saver over the Motorcraft option.
Some reading for you before you make a final decision. Let's just say Ford could have come up with a better idea. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...fuel-pump.html
Here's another thread on the subject. Apologies for the bad link to Webshots. Back in 2005 FTE's policy was to not allow much bandwidth for hosting pictures, but Webshots allowed for posting remote links, so a LOT of our comments included links to Webshots for a better explanation and then they went under. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ifference.html
And I'll just end my comment with the statement that, due to the laws of nature, it's ALWAYS better to push a fluid than to try and pull it. With that in mind, I migrated my fuel pump to the end of the fuel pickup sometime back in 2005 or so and have never had to deal with fuel issues since then.
Some reading for you before you make a final decision. Let's just say Ford could have come up with a better idea.
Again for the sake of staying consistent I’m going to argue against the need to move the pump out of its stock location and move into the tank. The factory fuel system with the simple pre-pump mods has been proven to work for 2+ decades and hundreds of thousands of miles without issue it’s easy to access it’s easy to maintain and easy to replace parts if needed.
The inlet screen of my fuel pump clogged up so badly that fuel pressure dropped to 20 psi just trying to accelerate EMPTY, not pulling a trailer or anything else. Severe power loss was very apparent and the truck only had 67,000 miles on it. I've had the current fuel pump in place for close to 16 years now and have never had to go back in for any reason. All because of the design flaw of having a non-serviceable screen built into the inlet side of the fuel pump that very easily gets clogged with debris.
Not trying to start any arguments here, but the fact of the matter is I found a flaw in the design of the fuel supply and applied a very good solution based on my experiences as an auto repair technician of 40+ years. If I ever needed to buy another 7.3 for any reason, this would be the first modification that I would do, then move onto the other stuff under the valve covers. It's that effective of a modification to the original design.
The common in tank mods get rid of the screen and put a filter between the tank and the pump where it is easy to access.
I myself prefer pulling and returning from a sump.
Not saying your idea isnt good, I just personally dislike having anything in that may need accessed the tank.
On the bright side, neither of us is recommended an overkill aftermarket setup meant for high power setups
Thanks for all the advice! I appreciate the photos of the pickup foot. I imagine I need to plan to put a new one on since they apparently break off eventually. I ordered a FP gauge and will install the sensor on the post filter side. For my reference, correct me if I'm wrong, I am looking for 50psi there?
Is that a stock pressure or is that only achievable with a replacement relief valve spring?
55-60 should be stock spring.
Not absolutely needed, but suggested, somewhere during this work going on would be a good time to do a full fuel bowl reseal, and make sure the fuel line clamps that tend to rub holes through the two fuel lines from heads to bowl are removed.
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