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Just bought the truck a month ago, did not have title for awhile so did not drive it. It’s mostly a project for me and my son when he turns 16 so I would like it in drives me condition by January or so. For now it’s going to be sitting in the garage until he gets his license but when he does it will be roughy 100-250 and mostly city miles.
I'm very sorry to tell you this, but a vehicle with 321K miles, even with a new crate engine dropped in is going to require hundreds & hundreds of dollars spent on supporting parts to work correctly or even have a chance at reliability.
It is why the average owner of this gen usually has the tools, skills or either a very, very hefty budget to pay for the required work that they demand.
Understand that this is just the cold, hard, physical reality of a very technically oriented truck over a quarter century in age & with well over a quarter million miles on the clock.
I'm going to say throw some card board under it & let it leak while you save up some more cash & discover what the next closet full of shoes are about to drop.
Just bought the truck a month ago, did not have title for awhile so did not drive it. It’s mostly a project for me and my son….
Oh. That sort of changes my answer? Drive the truck for a while to see how the rest of the drivetrain performs. Is the rest of the truck in good shape? Being in the Pacific NW you probably don’t have rust issues? How are the brakes and other systems? No point in replacing the engine only to have the transmission die a month later.
It’s a rebuild e40d with 30k on it I just to it to my mechanic and he said everything else looks good just need new pads, there is a bit of surface rust but nothing bad.
It’s a rebuild e4od with 30k on it I just to it to my mechanic and he said everything else looks good just need new pads, there is a bit of surface rust but nothing bad.
Fixed that transmission abbreviation for you.
In that case you need to decide if you want to invest in replacing the seals or save up for a reman or crate engine. Do as wwhite suggested and check compression to see how healthy the engine is. That will also help in deciding.
I'm waiting on a remanufactured engine right now because the previous owner thought engine stop leak was a good idea over fixing the issues. A long block 300 I6 from Jasper is nearly $3000, and the associated parts have been many hundreds more. I could have tried a junkyard motor, but... I'll still have mechanics time costs. I've determined my truck is worth the price, is yours? A quart of oil a month is cheap if you decide you want another engine in the near(ish) future, especially if this is an end to it.
Being in the Pacific NW you probably don’t have rust issues?
Heh, you'd like to think. We don't get Midwest salt rot, but everything around here gets the tin worm sooner or later, it's just too humid, especially if you park it on dirt/grass.
Your compression looks suspiciously high. A stock engine should be 100-120 psi on a good day. I'm curious if you have a carbon build-up in your combustion chamber that's raising your compression. Do you experience pinging at lower rpms at WOT?
Have you checked your oil pressure with a mechanical pressure gauge?
My thought is, ' If you have good compression and if you have good oil pressure, why not just replace the seals and gaskets and just keep going?
How's the coolant condition? If it's clean and green and not being consumed, you're probably in good shape.
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