3G alternator question
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4wd Low
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
From: Pulaski,TN
3G alternator question
I tried searching the site for information but it keeps telling me the keys words are wrong, too long etc.
I been reading on this conversion recently after charging troubles with factory style system.
And I’m wondering now , why does the alternator y’all use loop the stator wire back to the alternator?
My truck is a 85 f350 and from what I can find is my stator wire feeds my volt meter, correct? , if not can someone explain?
mice traced my stator wire ,light green with red strip, and it doesn’t go to the alternator, is it connected through the regulator?
Is the stator wire even 100 percent needed.
I been reading on this conversion recently after charging troubles with factory style system.
And I’m wondering now , why does the alternator y’all use loop the stator wire back to the alternator?
My truck is a 85 f350 and from what I can find is my stator wire feeds my volt meter, correct? , if not can someone explain?
mice traced my stator wire ,light green with red strip, and it doesn’t go to the alternator, is it connected through the regulator?
Is the stator wire even 100 percent needed.
Tuned
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 480
Likes: 141
From: NJ
I'm probably gonna get flamed for this and justifiably so, but on belt-drive trucks that already have the right mounting system I think you're better off installing a General Motors 10SI alternator. You can buy them brand new direct from ACDelco for $60, and if it ever craps out just about every auto parts store in the country has a replacement in stock. All connections (other than the output lug) are a standard 1/4" spade connector, so you don't need any proprietary harnesses to make it work.
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4wd Low
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
From: Pulaski,TN
That's how Ford wired it on applications with a factory Third generation alternator.
I'm probably gonna get flamed for this and justifiably so, but on belt-drive trucks that already have the right mounting system I think you're better off installing a General Motors 10SI alternator. You can buy them brand new direct from ACDelco for $60, and if it ever craps out just about every auto parts store in the country has a replacement in stock. All connections (other than the output lug) are a standard 1/4" spade connector, so you don't need any proprietary harnesses to make it work.
I'm probably gonna get flamed for this and justifiably so, but on belt-drive trucks that already have the right mounting system I think you're better off installing a General Motors 10SI alternator. You can buy them brand new direct from ACDelco for $60, and if it ever craps out just about every auto parts store in the country has a replacement in stock. All connections (other than the output lug) are a standard 1/4" spade connector, so you don't need any proprietary harnesses to make it work.
I also read in a mustang forum about connecting the stator wire to a ignition hot wire , which tells the alternator to start charging, but it seems like they were talking about some of the alternator not commonly used in the swap.
Thats what I’m wondering if it does by it being looped back into itself?
Tuned
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 480
Likes: 141
From: NJ
I’ve also read and heard about the GM alternator also.
I also read in a mustang forum about connecting the stator wire to a ignition hot wire , which tells the alternator to start charging, but it seems like they were talking about some of the alternator not commonly used in the swap.
Thats what I’m wondering if it does by it being looped back into itself?
I also read in a mustang forum about connecting the stator wire to a ignition hot wire , which tells the alternator to start charging, but it seems like they were talking about some of the alternator not commonly used in the swap.
Thats what I’m wondering if it does by it being looped back into itself?
The sole purpose of the "S" terminal is to turn off the warning light. The warning light is in series with the "I" terminal, which supplies field current to the alternator. When the ignition is turned on but the engine isn't running, the alternator consumes power, so there's a voltage across the warning lamp and it glows. Once the engine starts, the "s" terminal backfeeds voltage to the other side of the warning light, so it stops glowing. In theory you could do without it, but there are obvious downsides to this. As to why Ford designed it so there's a separate plug to worry about but it just goes back to the regulator plug, I couldn't tell ya. I guess the *%&#@^ guy who decided to use 573 different rear axles in every model was in working in the electrical engineering department that day.
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4wd Low
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
From: Pulaski,TN
On 3G applications, the wire they're talking about is the "I" ("ignition") wire, which turns the alternator on.
The sole purpose of the "S" terminal is to turn off the warning light. The warning light is in series with the "I" terminal, which supplies field current to the alternator. When the ignition is turned on but the engine isn't running, the alternator consumes power, so there's a voltage across the warning lamp and it glows. Once the engine starts, the "s" terminal backfeeds voltage to the other side of the warning light, so it stops glowing. In theory you could do without it, but there are obvious downsides to this. As to why Ford designed it so there's a separate plug to worry about but it just goes back to the regulator plug, I couldn't tell ya. I guess the *%&#@^ guy who decided to use 573 different rear axles in every model was in working in the electrical engineering department that day.
The sole purpose of the "S" terminal is to turn off the warning light. The warning light is in series with the "I" terminal, which supplies field current to the alternator. When the ignition is turned on but the engine isn't running, the alternator consumes power, so there's a voltage across the warning lamp and it glows. Once the engine starts, the "s" terminal backfeeds voltage to the other side of the warning light, so it stops glowing. In theory you could do without it, but there are obvious downsides to this. As to why Ford designed it so there's a separate plug to worry about but it just goes back to the regulator plug, I couldn't tell ya. I guess the *%&#@^ guy who decided to use 573 different rear axles in every model was in working in the electrical engineering department that day.
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