Bad FICM?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 111
Likes: 13
This damn truck with only 160k miles has cost me a bit over $14k in repairs the past 10 years. Sure wish it was like the 1995 F150 of mine. I've had it now for 22 years, has 330k miles on it and the only issue it's given me is replacing two bad injectors.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,901
Likes: 3,617
Wow 34 volts from FICM MPower and you aren't going to address it until some undetermined time later?!
Without a good/capable scan tool, I can understand why a lot of money might have been spent. Unfortunately there is a good chance it wasn't all needed to be spent. As an example - a 58 volt FICM is not a necessity, and it really doesn't add anything to performance or reliability. Don't get me wrong, I have spent a fair amount on "unneeded upgrades", but I knew all of that going into it, and I do not add that cost to any total amount of spending that was actually "required because of unreliability".
We can help you get this thing fixed with the least amount of money, it is just that we want data to go on - and the SCT just doesn't cut it.
Without a good/capable scan tool, I can understand why a lot of money might have been spent. Unfortunately there is a good chance it wasn't all needed to be spent. As an example - a 58 volt FICM is not a necessity, and it really doesn't add anything to performance or reliability. Don't get me wrong, I have spent a fair amount on "unneeded upgrades", but I knew all of that going into it, and I do not add that cost to any total amount of spending that was actually "required because of unreliability".
We can help you get this thing fixed with the least amount of money, it is just that we want data to go on - and the SCT just doesn't cut it.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 111
Likes: 13
Wow 34 volts from FICM MPower and you aren't going to address it until some undetermined time later?!
Without a good/capable scan tool, I can understand why a lot of money might have been spent. Unfortunately there is a good chance it wasn't all needed to be spent. As an example - a 58 volt FICM is not a necessity, and it really doesn't add anything to performance or reliability. Don't get me wrong, I have spent a fair amount on "unneeded upgrades", but I knew all of that going into it, and I do not add that cost to any total amount of spending that was actually "required because of unreliability".
We can help you get this thing fixed with the least amount of money, it is just that we want data to go on - and the SCT just doesn't cut it.
Without a good/capable scan tool, I can understand why a lot of money might have been spent. Unfortunately there is a good chance it wasn't all needed to be spent. As an example - a 58 volt FICM is not a necessity, and it really doesn't add anything to performance or reliability. Don't get me wrong, I have spent a fair amount on "unneeded upgrades", but I knew all of that going into it, and I do not add that cost to any total amount of spending that was actually "required because of unreliability".
We can help you get this thing fixed with the least amount of money, it is just that we want data to go on - and the SCT just doesn't cut it.
And I appreciate your input along with everyone else.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,901
Likes: 3,617
That is a generous friend you have. Essentially that is the same as having a known good spare, which a lot of techs find VERY useful.
You really need to get ForScan if you want to get this thing fixed at the lowest cost. $6 download and a $40 adapter - depending on what platform you download the software to. The most it can cost is about $80 (if you want the very best OBD adapter). Some people look at it as good money after bad. That is far from the truth, but if $50-$80 is too much to spend on diagnostic equipment, then it might be time to part with it. They are selling for fairly good prices still.
In the meantime, you need to check for air in the fuel. Remove the secondary fuel filter and remove ALL residual fuel. have someone turn the key on while you watch the filter bowl fill. Look for bubbles as it fills. The person at the key needs to be ready to turn the key off quickly. The filter bowl can fill rather quickly.
Just as a curiosity - what is your fuel tank level?
Also, do you have a security system or a remote start?
You really need to get ForScan if you want to get this thing fixed at the lowest cost. $6 download and a $40 adapter - depending on what platform you download the software to. The most it can cost is about $80 (if you want the very best OBD adapter). Some people look at it as good money after bad. That is far from the truth, but if $50-$80 is too much to spend on diagnostic equipment, then it might be time to part with it. They are selling for fairly good prices still.
In the meantime, you need to check for air in the fuel. Remove the secondary fuel filter and remove ALL residual fuel. have someone turn the key on while you watch the filter bowl fill. Look for bubbles as it fills. The person at the key needs to be ready to turn the key off quickly. The filter bowl can fill rather quickly.
Just as a curiosity - what is your fuel tank level?
Also, do you have a security system or a remote start?
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 111
Likes: 13
That is a generous friend you have. Essentially that is the same as having a known good spare, which a lot of techs find VERY useful.
You really need to get ForScan if you want to get this thing fixed at the lowest cost. $6 download and a $40 adapter - depending on what platform you download the software to. The most it can cost is about $80 (if you want the very best OBD adapter). Some people look at it as good money after bad. That is far from the truth, but if $50-$80 is too much to spend on diagnostic equipment, then it might be time to part with it. They are selling for fairly good prices still.
In the meantime, you need to check for air in the fuel. Remove the secondary fuel filter and remove ALL residual fuel. have someone turn the key on while you watch the filter bowl fill. Look for bubbles as it fills. The person at the key needs to be ready to turn the key off quickly. The filter bowl can fill rather quickly.
Just as a curiosity - what is your fuel tank level?
Also, do you have a security system or a remote start?
You really need to get ForScan if you want to get this thing fixed at the lowest cost. $6 download and a $40 adapter - depending on what platform you download the software to. The most it can cost is about $80 (if you want the very best OBD adapter). Some people look at it as good money after bad. That is far from the truth, but if $50-$80 is too much to spend on diagnostic equipment, then it might be time to part with it. They are selling for fairly good prices still.
In the meantime, you need to check for air in the fuel. Remove the secondary fuel filter and remove ALL residual fuel. have someone turn the key on while you watch the filter bowl fill. Look for bubbles as it fills. The person at the key needs to be ready to turn the key off quickly. The filter bowl can fill rather quickly.
Just as a curiosity - what is your fuel tank level?
Also, do you have a security system or a remote start?
The first thing checked was fuel delivery. The secondary fuel filter fills up with diesel. No bubbles.
I'll look into the Forscan. I'm just fed up dumping money into this truck so was hoping to find the issue utilizing what I have before spending more money. Yet, it appears I really don't have any other options.
Edit: no security system.
The part that puzzles me is I was driving down the highway fine and the second I let off the throttle to merge into the turn lane it died. Maybe coincidental, yet seems odd the exact second removing my foot from the throttle it was like someone turned my ignition key off.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,901
Likes: 3,617
Sometimes dying when you let off of the accelerator is an issue with high pressure oil pressure. When you let the rpms drop, the oil pressure drops and the engine dies.
One of the free things to check for when an engine just dies/stalls when driving is wiring issues. That said, codes can be VERY helpful in the process. Below are some areas you can check.
This is by no means a complete list - many wiring issues are a pain.
I'll change the text to red for some that would seem to happen when turning.
Wire Chafing Locations (Closely inspect wiring when you have injector DTCs):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...re_chafing.pdf
One of the free things to check for when an engine just dies/stalls when driving is wiring issues. That said, codes can be VERY helpful in the process. Below are some areas you can check.
This is by no means a complete list - many wiring issues are a pain.
I'll change the text to red for some that would seem to happen when turning.
Wire Chafing Locations (Closely inspect wiring when you have injector DTCs):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...re_chafing.pdf
- ICP sensor connector or wiring - usually the 03 and early 04 engines are more prone to these issues.
- Upper left valve cover or valve cover stud near the FICM (injector harness).
- IPR harness - near rear intake stud; Also heat from the turbo can ruin the insulation around the wires.
- Exhaust Pressure (EBP) sensor bracket at thermostat housing.
- Accelerator Pedal pivot point (under dash) at steering column - adjustable pedals only.
- 12A581 harness (engine harness that goes across the back of the engine compartment, over the turbo, in the plastic harness tray). The plastic tray gets brittle and fails. When it does, the wires get too close to the turbo heat and they can be damaged.
- Near the steering column, where it goes through the firewall.
- Front left of intake manifold near breather tube and air inlet duct. Left front valve cover hold down bolts/studs.
- CKP wiring near A/C compressor and belt tensioner. Also, sometimes the CKP sensor itself leaks oil and damages the connector and an intermittent short can result.
- Under the Air Filter canister - harness chafe's on a stud when pinched by the air filter case. Corner of the valve cover. Or the intake manifold bolts where the harness routes under the air intake hose.
- CMP wire can get pinched in between the intake manifold and the radiator hose port on the front cover. Also, sometimes the CMP sensor itself leaks oil and damages the connector and an intermittent short can result.
- Not an electrical problem exactly, but sometimes rust on the block where the CMP sensor is mounted can push the sensor out just far enough to cause intermittent engine stalls (dying).
- Idler pulley under the thermostat (wiring routed around the power steering pump). The CMP sensor wiring is in this "bundle", and a chafe here can throw a P0341 CMP electrical code. The wiring to the CMP is routed around the power steering pump.
- Right valve cover at glow plug control module (GPCM) and around the glow plug relay bracket.
- PCM harness at battery box, or at/near the PCM.
- PCM harness near the relay box brackets at the left rear corner of the engine compartment.
- Check injector harnesses and FICM harness for backed out or bent pins or bad wiring.
- Wiring to #5 injector. (3rd back passenger side) the heater hose clamp rubs through on the early build units.
- On Econolines, also inspect at the top edge of the computer, along the oil dipstick tube bracket and auxiliary A/C lines.
- Check near C145 which is near the fire wall on the drivers side, not far from the BJB (Battery Junction Box). Also 14A067 (BJB) wiring, circuit 1044 (WH/YE wire), under the BJB (left rear corner of engine compartment).
- Fan clutch wiring has been damaged by the fan, or maybe the fan clutch itself has an internal short.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,901
Likes: 3,617
With the scan tool, we want to see the following engine data when cranking (ie when it will not start):
Cam/Crank Sync
FICM Sync
Injector Pulse Width command
FICM Logic Voltage
Cranking rpms
V-reference voltage
ICP sensor volts
ICP sensor pressure (psi)
IPR % duty cycle
All this data is readily retrieved with ForScan, Torque Pro, and maybe even much of it is available with the SCT. Even if it is, the SCT does not read the codes and they are sometimes critical (as I keep harping on).
A lot of people recommend the ScanGauge II. It does retrieve engine parameters well enough, but it is also VERY poor on code reading.
Cam/Crank Sync
FICM Sync
Injector Pulse Width command
FICM Logic Voltage
Cranking rpms
V-reference voltage
ICP sensor volts
ICP sensor pressure (psi)
IPR % duty cycle
All this data is readily retrieved with ForScan, Torque Pro, and maybe even much of it is available with the SCT. Even if it is, the SCT does not read the codes and they are sometimes critical (as I keep harping on).
A lot of people recommend the ScanGauge II. It does retrieve engine parameters well enough, but it is also VERY poor on code reading.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,901
Likes: 3,617
Oh, and another thing that is free to check is for an injector allowing combustion gasses to back pressure the fuel lines. To check for this you need to do a cranking test for gas flowing backwards into the fuel bowl.
The best way to do this test is to have a 3/4 full secondary fuel filter bowl and crank. You need to make sure that the fuel pump does not come on, so cranking with the starter solenoid wire jumpered to the passenger battery is the best way. If an injector has failed and it is allowing the backflow, then you will see bubbles coming up into the fuel when cranking.
I can post videos on these things if you need them.
The best way to do this test is to have a 3/4 full secondary fuel filter bowl and crank. You need to make sure that the fuel pump does not come on, so cranking with the starter solenoid wire jumpered to the passenger battery is the best way. If an injector has failed and it is allowing the backflow, then you will see bubbles coming up into the fuel when cranking.
I can post videos on these things if you need them.
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