No start help.
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No start help.
I currently have a 2005 6.0 that will crank and not start. I have ran the diagnostics on the truck and all of the hops are working correctly. When I turn the key forward I can hear the fuel pump and the clatter of the injectors but when I crank it sounds like there is no fuel getting to the injectors. Sounds dry for a lack of better words. What could be my issue? TIA.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Warsaw KY
I would start with seeing if the fuel bowl in the engine fills up or not. Remove the secondary fuel filter from the housing and siphon out the fuel with a turkey baster. Have a helper cycle the key to cause the fuel pump to run(not start the truck) and watch to see if the fuel rises into the bowl quickly. It should. Be ready to shout OFF to your helper. I would put some towels around the bowl to catch spills.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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After verifying fuel is filling up the secondary fuel filter bowl ......................
You need over 500 psig from the high pressure oil system for the FICM to send a fueling command. What is your cranking ICP pressure?
Also, would be good to know what the cranking rpms and voltage numbers are.
Post FICM MPower and LPower when cranking also!
You need over 500 psig from the high pressure oil system for the FICM to send a fueling command. What is your cranking ICP pressure?
Also, would be good to know what the cranking rpms and voltage numbers are.
Post FICM MPower and LPower when cranking also!
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I know the ficm is at 48.5 volts while cranking. Batt is 11.5 while cranking. Icp shows .5 volts and 2500psi while cranking. Hpop/ ipr shows 85% while crank and 14.5 when koeo. Also not sure of the cranking rpm, I have a 6.4 diesel starter on the truck for the higher crank. I hope that gives you more info. But I will look at the upper fuel filter bowl when it's not raining or snowing. So hopefully tomorrow. 
Fleet Owner
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0.5 volts correlates to LESS THAN 500 psig pressure. The 2500 psig you are seeing is a "default number" and is not accurate.
You could try starting with the ICP unplugged, but you most likely have an issue with the high pressure oil pressure (leak, bad IPR valve, or bad HPOP - which isn't very common for the 05 and up).
You could try starting with the ICP unplugged, but you most likely have an issue with the high pressure oil pressure (leak, bad IPR valve, or bad HPOP - which isn't very common for the 05 and up).
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Okay I'll try that. Was just going with what I remembered the scanner saying. I can repost actual values when I'm done work to verify I'm giving a real set of number. Thanks for the help.
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Okay so tried to start it with the icp unplugged and still a hard crank no start. Haven't checked the fuel filter bowl yet as the weather isnt cooperating very much and the truck doesnt fit in my garage. Again I will say that all the scans for the oil pressure check out and ficm voltage and sync are good. Icp and ipr check out too. Hpos is all checked out and good and also the lpos is good too. Not sure why this truck wont start. Any other problems I should look into?
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Fleet Owner
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Absolutely not what I am saying. I am saying the ICP sensor is probably OK and the voltage is at 0.5 because your pressure is actually low.
0.5 volts correlates to LESS THAN 500 psig pressure. The 2500 psig you are seeing is a "default number" and is not accurate.
You could try starting with the ICP unplugged, but you most likely have an issue with the high pressure oil pressure (leak, bad IPR valve, or bad HPOP - which isn't very common for the 05 and up).
You could try starting with the ICP unplugged, but you most likely have an issue with the high pressure oil pressure (leak, bad IPR valve, or bad HPOP - which isn't very common for the 05 and up).
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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Thanks Mike! I was pre-occupied and wasn't thorough in posting!
An air test will most likely point to the leak area as Mike indicated above. The most likely "leak" points are (since the HPOP failure itself is not common):
1. Dummy plug o-ring leak (in the high pressure oil rail under the valve covers)
2. STC fitting (the HPOP discharge fitting)
3. clogged or failing IPR valve - remove and inspect (remove turbo air inlet and the air filter, degas bottle and bracket, and FICM for easier access to IPR valve)
4. Injector top o-ring (under the valve covers)
5. Standpipe leak (in the high pressure oil rail under the valve covers)
An air test will most likely point to the leak area as Mike indicated above. The most likely "leak" points are (since the HPOP failure itself is not common):
1. Dummy plug o-ring leak (in the high pressure oil rail under the valve covers)
2. STC fitting (the HPOP discharge fitting)
3. clogged or failing IPR valve - remove and inspect (remove turbo air inlet and the air filter, degas bottle and bracket, and FICM for easier access to IPR valve)
4. Injector top o-ring (under the valve covers)
5. Standpipe leak (in the high pressure oil rail under the valve covers)
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The stc fitting is the updated one, just replaced. The standpipes and dummy plugs also updated one with the teflon ring and the o ring. Also replaced the injector top o ring as it came with the kit. Everything oil pressure related has been replaced with all new updated components and o rings. Ipr valve is clean and new screen attached came with the stc kit. Scanner shows everything working as it should. And yes I've seen how to do the air leak test. Just haven't performed it yet as I am waiting on the adapter fitting and also figured all new parts would leak. Lol.
Fleet Owner
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That information would have been helpful to post earlier, lol ........
Then why are you only getting .5 volts from the ICP sensor when cranking, if everything is working as it should? With 2500 psig, the ICP should be over 3 volts. Which one do you believe? (I tend to believe the ICP sensor to be working and that .5 volts is real since you couldn't start w/ the ICP unplugged)
You said the ICP checks out in an earlier post. How did you determine that? Was it simply the 2500 psig cranking reading?
Then why are you only getting .5 volts from the ICP sensor when cranking, if everything is working as it should? With 2500 psig, the ICP should be over 3 volts. Which one do you believe? (I tend to believe the ICP sensor to be working and that .5 volts is real since you couldn't start w/ the ICP unplugged)
You said the ICP checks out in an earlier post. How did you determine that? Was it simply the 2500 psig cranking reading?