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I have installed two reman C2 pumps in 2 different Bullnose trucks and had good luck with them. I forget what brands they were, but they came from RockAuto. The first one was super quiet, but the second one made a tiny bit of noise. I have a new C2 reman pump installed in my current project truck (w/302), but haven't started it yet. I had custom hoses made to run a Toyota steering gear that I swapped into my '52 pickup.
I was going to buy this Lee pump with the Saginaw internals, but I decided to take a chance on another reman pump. If it gives me any grief at all or if it won't run the Toyota box, I'll swap in one of these Lee units. I read that the standard C2 pumps are fine, so I'm not too worried about it, and the remans are cheap.
Only downside is that my cheap power steering pump puller kit is getting pretty sketchy and I'm not sure it would survive another pulley pull and re-installation lol.
Rock auto has for my truck three reman brands—Motorcraft, BBB, and 2 Cardonne.
On the New side—Lares, BBB, Edelmann.
I have never heard of BBB, but have the others. BBB is even more expensive than Lares. At this point, I am open to anything, but, I know the Saginaws provide a better sound, and more importantly, are great for 4x4s that have larger tires on them—which at this point, mine does, but I am going to scale them back to 285s probably—305s on them now.
Rock auto has for my truck three reman brands—Motorcraft, BBB, and 2 Cardonne.
On the New side—Lares, BBB, Edelmann.
I have never heard of BBB, but have the others. BBB is even more expensive than Lares. At this point, I am open to anything, but, I know the Saginaws provide a better sound, and more importantly, are great for 4x4s that have larger tires on them—which at this point, mine does, but I am going to scale them back to 285s probably—305s on them now.
Right. I never really understood the Saginaw power steering pump swaps, but then again I have been fairly lucky with my C2 pumps in that they were never annoyingly loud. But then again, I always thought that the Saginaw swap was only to eliminate the whine of the C2 pump. I talked to a local guy one day about this, and he said "No, the Saginaw pump just works better!". Me being me, I had to ask, what do you mean "works better"?
My trucks with C2 pumps always steered very well (very easily, I mean). He said that the Saginaw pumps were even easier...but maybe that's an issue with 4x4's, specifically lifted ones with bigger tires. My trucks were mostly 2wd, and the one 4x4 only had 31x10.50's on it.
So, I guess that's why I was never really interested in the Saginaw swap as it was a solution to a problem I didn't have lol. However, I know some guys swear by it, so it has helped some.
Now that this C2/Sagniaw conversion pump is available, that's what I'd install if I was going that way, even if it cost a bit more. It would look better in the engine bay if nothing else lol.
The Lares pump on the B2 was reman from RockAuto. Many years ago I converted the ‘87 Bronco to a Saginaw pump when the engine got replaced. I am in the process of rebuilding the ‘89 F-150 and have switched to a Saginaw pump on there as well. The Ford pump on the pickup was fine but I was able to get the pump, bracket and pressure line from the junkyard for $50 so why not?
EDIT: Yeah, the Saginaw pump puts out more pressure than the Ford C2 pump. Works better with bigger tires and/or low speed turns.
I never had anyone say why the Saginaw pump in a Ford when at shows with the hood open.
Think I had one person ask about the extra wiring and breakers for the trailer.
More want to know why I have 2 shift levers and no 4 wheel drive
Dave ----
I never had anyone say why the Saginaw pump in a Ford when at shows with the hood open.
Think I had one person ask about the extra wiring and breakers for the trailer.
More want to know why I have 2 shift levers and no 4 wheel drive
Dave ----
ps it for the over drive unit.
LOL.
I knew a guy with a 73 Bronco….he had 3 shift levers—one was low/high for every gear. The other was 1-4 and the other was 2-4L-4H. I assume the low hi was for really low and slow torque purposes, and since he went to the dunes, I can see why.
I knew a guy with a 73 Bronco….he had 3 shift levers—one was low/high for every gear. The other was 1-4 and the other was 2-4L-4H. I assume the low hi was for really low and slow torque purposes, and since he went to the dunes, I can see why.
Most of the time if they dont run 2 transfer cases, double under, you have main trans shifter, in / out of 4 wheel drive shifter, high & low range shifter.
This way they can use low range but not have it in 4 wheel drive.
I just left the front hubs unlocked but when off roading it is a pain to lock & unlock.
Dave ----
Most of the time if they dont run 2 transfer cases, double under, you have main trans shifter, in / out of 4 wheel drive shifter, high & low range shifter.
This way they can use low range but not have it in 4 wheel drive.
I just left the front hubs unlocked but when off roading it is a pain to lock & unlock.
Dave ----
my cheap power steering pump puller kit is getting pretty sketchy and I'm not sure it would survive another pulley pull and re-installation lol.
Harbor Freight? I learned the hard way the HF puller did not work very well. Normally their stuff is fine, but not this model.
The problem is with the two pieces that grip the pulley. They were raw castings, not machined pieces. They fit sloppily inside the collar that is supposed to clamp them together onto the pulley. There was just too much play and they did not lock on very well at all. The actual pulling surface (the edge of the groove) needed to be flat, but it was still slightly tapered, which forced the two pieces apart as pressure was applied.
I ended up returning the HF puller and went with a Lisle 39000 instead. It was only $47 on Amazon, and the difference was night and day. Instead of a loose collar to hold the two pieces together, this had a different arrangement with bolts:
Harbor Freight? I learned the hard way the HF puller did not work very well. Normally their stuff is fine, but not this model.
The problem is with the two pieces that grip the pulley. They were raw castings, not machined pieces. They fit sloppily inside the collar that is supposed to clamp them together onto the pulley. There was just too much play and they did not lock on very well at all. The actual pulling surface (the edge of the groove) needed to be flat, but it was still slightly tapered, which forced the two pieces apart as pressure was applied.
I ended up returning the HF puller and went with a Lisle 39000 instead. It was only $47 on Amazon, and the difference was night and day. Instead of a loose collar to hold the two pieces together, this had a different arrangement with bolts:
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
