Code 96 after KOER
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 130
Likes: 16
So I found a distributor on a 91 4.9. It looks better than the one i had. It even showed the thermal paste on it. Put it in and same condition, nothing coming out of the number 5 wire with the key on, and cranking. I had the test light to the positive wire.
So i will order the new cardone distributor.............. hopefully nothing coming out of the #5 wire has to do with the TFI/ICM.
I am definitely getting good a pulling distributor out...
So i will order the new cardone distributor.............. hopefully nothing coming out of the #5 wire has to do with the TFI/ICM.
I am definitely getting good a pulling distributor out...
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 130
Likes: 16
I am so suspicion of getting the cardone distributor. I mean its only 107$ CAD!!! the motorcraft ICM is 115$ CAD. I have been researching an alternative solution to buying the cardone, i have yet to find anything. Summitracing doesn't have one, they only list cardone. Even if I were to upgrade to the remote mounted ICM it still will require buying a cardone distributor... Maybe a used distributor from a remoted mounted truck with a 4.9 would be worth it.
Does anyone have a good link to the thermal paste to be used? It does not appear to come with the ICM. however maybe it does.....
In the end, firewood season is coming up and i would not mind having the truck in the next 2 weeks or soooo. Right now we are under Extreme fire rating, so no firewood can be cut....
Has anyone ever opened a failed ICM to see what is wrong with it? can they be repaired?
Does anyone have a good link to the thermal paste to be used? It does not appear to come with the ICM. however maybe it does.....
In the end, firewood season is coming up and i would not mind having the truck in the next 2 weeks or soooo. Right now we are under Extreme fire rating, so no firewood can be cut....
Has anyone ever opened a failed ICM to see what is wrong with it? can they be repaired?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1,199
From: Mojave, Ca
Whoops, I just noticed you have the '89 with the distributor mounted ICM... for some reason, I though you had a '94 with the remove mounted ICM. Im not sure how accurate our diagnostics voltage checks were since I was looking at a '94 wiring diagram.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 130
Likes: 16
To me the ICM is just mounted on the fender. It still looks like its the same ICM. Both have 6 wires going to them.
Besides most of your tests were similar to https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...module-tests-1
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 130
Likes: 16
So the New Cardone distributor came. Along with a new Ford MAP sensor. I replaced the distributor and the MAP. Truck does spark every now and then. Doesn't even try to start in my opinion. I also bought a new Ignition coil - distributor wire. Turns out it only goes on one way.
Battery is low now, I am wondering if the timing is really off. I do not have a timing light available. I did mark the distributor. Can I loosen the distributor while someone cranks the motor over to see if it sparks? I cannot imagine I am way off.
I will keep working at it but could use some direction.
Battery is low now, I am wondering if the timing is really off. I do not have a timing light available. I did mark the distributor. Can I loosen the distributor while someone cranks the motor over to see if it sparks? I cannot imagine I am way off.
I will keep working at it but could use some direction.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 130
Likes: 16
so initial testing tells me the Ignition coil is out of spec. The secondary circuit. It shows me 7.93k Ohms. Book shows it needs to be between 8k-11.5k. Book says to replace it. Would this really cause it not to start?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1,199
From: Mojave, Ca
The coil resistance is not your smoking gun.
Pull #1 spark plug, put your finger over the hole. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until you start feeling compression. Then continue turning it clock wise until your harmonic balancer 10° mark lines up with the timing mark on your front cover. Locate the #1 sparkplug lead on your distributor cap and mark it on the lower housing.. remove the distributor cap. Is the rotor pointing at the mark you put on the housing?
Pull #1 spark plug, put your finger over the hole. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until you start feeling compression. Then continue turning it clock wise until your harmonic balancer 10° mark lines up with the timing mark on your front cover. Locate the #1 sparkplug lead on your distributor cap and mark it on the lower housing.. remove the distributor cap. Is the rotor pointing at the mark you put on the housing?
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 130
Likes: 16
The coil resistance is not your smoking gun.
Pull #1 spark plug, put your finger over the hole. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until you start feeling compression. Then continue turning it clock wise until your harmonic balancer 10° mark lines up with the timing mark on your front cover. Locate the #1 sparkplug lead on your distributor cap and mark it on the lower housing.. remove the distributor cap. Is the rotor pointing at the mark you put on the housing?
Pull #1 spark plug, put your finger over the hole. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until you start feeling compression. Then continue turning it clock wise until your harmonic balancer 10° mark lines up with the timing mark on your front cover. Locate the #1 sparkplug lead on your distributor cap and mark it on the lower housing.. remove the distributor cap. Is the rotor pointing at the mark you put on the housing?
So my harmonic balancer only has one thin scribed mark on it. It took 5 minutes to find it.
I assume this mark is 0 timing...
I currently have the mark on the harmonic balancer lined up with the 10* mark. Is this what you mean?
This thread helped immensely https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...g-marks-2.html
It reads 12*. I changed it to 10* after taking the photo.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 130
Likes: 16
The coil resistance is not your smoking gun.
Pull #1 spark plug, put your finger over the hole. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until you start feeling compression. Then continue turning it clock wise until your harmonic balancer 10° mark lines up with the timing mark on your front cover. Locate the #1 sparkplug lead on your distributor cap and mark it on the lower housing.. remove the distributor cap. Is the rotor pointing at the mark you put on the housing?
Pull #1 spark plug, put your finger over the hole. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until you start feeling compression. Then continue turning it clock wise until your harmonic balancer 10° mark lines up with the timing mark on your front cover. Locate the #1 sparkplug lead on your distributor cap and mark it on the lower housing.. remove the distributor cap. Is the rotor pointing at the mark you put on the housing?
I hope the next step was to line it up number 1 cylinder. It still wouldn't start. One thing I notice is the Tach Is jumping all over the place when I am trying to start the truck. Spins all the way to 6000. The old dist would not do this... The old distributor would show me what rpm the truck was spinning at. 300-400 rpm.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,120
Likes: 390
From: Evansville, Indiana
Good on both of you, @cannothinkofaname and @Prototypemech for sticking with this.
The only thing I have to offer is watch out for the distributor end play on the Cardones. Be sure it does not bottom out when distributor is locked down. I had to modify mine. Also, the drive gear is loose on the shaft. Only the roll pin holds it in place. Currently redoing my original distributor so I can toss the Cardone.
Cannotthinkofaname, don't let my dissing the Cardone influence you on the brand. I my case, it was at least a diagnostic tool.
Carry on gentlemen. You have my interest and attention.
The only thing I have to offer is watch out for the distributor end play on the Cardones. Be sure it does not bottom out when distributor is locked down. I had to modify mine. Also, the drive gear is loose on the shaft. Only the roll pin holds it in place. Currently redoing my original distributor so I can toss the Cardone.
Cannotthinkofaname, don't let my dissing the Cardone influence you on the brand. I my case, it was at least a diagnostic tool.
Carry on gentlemen. You have my interest and attention.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 130
Likes: 16
thanks diggerrigger.
So today I spent a bit of time diagnosing.
I was checking the https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...module-tests-2
which is the ground circuit.
The test has me put the probe into the #6 ground on the TFI connector. than I am to put it to the positive on the battery. It doesn't say whether it is with the key on or off.
With the key OFF. I am getting 12VDC. When I turn the key ON I am getting 7.43VDC To me this is fishy. When I put both probes on the same circuit as that #6 ground I get 4.79VDC. I am starting to think there is a wire shorting.
To me 7.43VDC seems odd.
I didn't have time to go any further today. And tomorrow is supposed to be wet...
So today I spent a bit of time diagnosing.
I was checking the https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...module-tests-2
which is the ground circuit.
The test has me put the probe into the #6 ground on the TFI connector. than I am to put it to the positive on the battery. It doesn't say whether it is with the key on or off.
With the key OFF. I am getting 12VDC. When I turn the key ON I am getting 7.43VDC To me this is fishy. When I put both probes on the same circuit as that #6 ground I get 4.79VDC. I am starting to think there is a wire shorting.
To me 7.43VDC seems odd.
I didn't have time to go any further today. And tomorrow is supposed to be wet...
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1,199
From: Mojave, Ca
So it was not lined up. It was facing where the number 4 cylinder wire would go on the distributor cap.
I hope the next step was to line it up number 1 cylinder. It still wouldn't start. One thing I notice is the Tach Is jumping all over the place when I am trying to start the truck. Spins all the way to 6000. The old dist would not do this... The old distributor would show me what rpm the truck was spinning at. 300-400 rpm.
I hope the next step was to line it up number 1 cylinder. It still wouldn't start. One thing I notice is the Tach Is jumping all over the place when I am trying to start the truck. Spins all the way to 6000. The old dist would not do this... The old distributor would show me what rpm the truck was spinning at. 300-400 rpm.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 130
Likes: 16
If your Tachometer is working, than the ICM is sending a signal to the coil, but the coil isnt firing. The fact that the new distributor shows 6000rpm is not a good sign. Put your old distributor back in. Make sure your time it to cylinder #1 TDC on the compression stroke.
The 91 4.9l f150 i have access to has an engine harness which looks much better than mine. I am going to scan the wiring diagrams to see if they are compatible. They look very similar.
Most of the clips on the connectors are broken on my truck. So I might change out the engine harness. This is the harness which goes from the 4 connectors on the fender to most of the connectors on the drivers side of the engine. I didn't grab the harness which goes around the back of the motor to the injectors.