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Im looking forward to seeing your problem being fixed. The PIP sensor puts out a square wave that can be viewed on an oscilloscope. A normal multimeter can be used too with limited resolution. Connect the multimeter to the PIP wire, Pin 1 on the ICM or Pin 56 on the PCM, and the other multimeter probe to the positive battery post and crank the engine. You should see atleast 2-3 volts on a multimeter set to AC voltage.
Thanks for the encouragement!
So I took the distributor out, it was quite corroded. I cleaned it up with a bit of sand paper. I cleaned the pip sensor off lightly. Just got the distributor back in. Still a no start. I will check the pip signal again. I tried it with a normal 12VDC test light. it sounds like you are saying it will be VAC instead of VDC. I will check it with my meter set to VAC. As the test light most likely wouldn't show VAC.
So with the Voltmeter connected to the #1 wire for the TFI and the positive cable. I got 4.2VAC - 4.6VAC It didn't go to zero or anything. It bounced between these values.
With the voltmeter connected to #5 wire for the TFI and the positive cable. I got 2.8VAC - 3VAC. It bounced between these values
Just so people are aware, I have disconnected the roll over switch in the cab, no more fuel being pumped/wasted.
To be honest I don't exactly know what these results tell me. I assume it would be obvious with a LED light. I would think the led bulb would be on the whole time... but i really do not know...
I noticed when i went to try your test. That the distributor is loose. I just spent way to much time getting it installed properly. I assume the first time i didn't seat it all the way. Now that it is installed properly. I just ran your test. I did not get any flashing at all.
Key was on, turned the engine over jumping the starter relay.
OK. So your PIP is putting out the correct signal, but the ICM isnt firing the coil. On the ICM, Pin 4 should be Power, and Pin 6 is ground. Check those together with a volt meter to make sure your ICM is getting power.
Have you tried starting the engine with the spout disconnected?
I Went throu this a month ago on a GMC topkick. Turns out, the corrosion on the magnet was confusing the computer. It would run without the computer controlling the spark, but didn't know what to do when the computer was in charge of timing. I ended up replacing the complete distributor and it fixed the problem. Here's a shot of the two different wave forms from the distributor pick-up coil (GM' version of the pip) Old distributors pick up coil (PIP) signal. Rotating it with my finger at 60RPM. Notice the inconsistent wave heights. Old distributors ignition module's signal to the ECU (top wave) and ECU's output back to ignition module ( bottom wave). EST ( gm version of the spout) connected. Engine running at idle. Notice the dropped spark events. Rusty distributor as removed. Rusty distributor after clean up. Didn't fix the problem. Replaced the distributor.
New distributors pick up coil (PIP) signal. (Rotating it with my finger at about 60 rpm) New distributor installed. Ignition module signal to ECU (top wave) and ECUs signal back to the ignition module (bottom wave) with engine running and EST (SPOUT) connected. Consistant firing events.
Have you tried starting the engine with the spout disconnected?.....
Just tried it. No difference.
Iam starting to suspect its the TFI. It is not a motorcraft part. The distributor is a motorcraft.
The TFI is 115$ CAD from rock auto. Motorcraft part.
unless something else is suspect? I know the MAP sensor needs to be replaced. however i do not think it is causing the no start issue. It is also possible that the ignition coil wire is suspect. It looks a bit corroded where it connects to the ignition coil. new motorcraft is 8 bucks.
Wow the new cardone distributor comes with the TFI(ICM) and the cap/rotor..... hmmmm for 107$
You can test the ignition coil wiring with your voltmeter. Back-probe using one lead of the multi meter to the red/light green wire on the coil, and the other side the battery negative. You should have 12v. I suspect it's fine, because the coil runs on the same circuit that feeds the TFI module.
You can test the ignition coil wiring with your voltmeter. Back-probe using one lead of the multi meter to the red/light green wire, and the other side the battery negative. You should have 12v. I suspect it's fine, because the coil runs on the same circuit that feeds the TFI module.
yea that checked out good. Same circuit as you suggest. What i meant was the Ignition coil high voltage wire was suspect.
If that was the case, your test light would flash when you connected it to pin 5 on the ICM and battery 12v.
hmm so you are saying If the high voltage ignition coil wire didn't work. the test light would have flashed when i connected to pin #5 on the ICM? I am confused
What i checked was the voltage to the Ignition coil was in spec. And the resistance was in spec based on the haynes manual.
No. I'm saying 'if your ignition module #5 isn't flashing the test light, then it's not firing the coil.' So you don't know if the coil is good, but it probably is. You can test the ignition coil to see if it works. Turn the key to 'on'. Disconnect the high tension coil lead from the distributor and hold it near a bolt head or valve cover on the engine. Connect a wire to the negative side of the battery. Tap the other side of the wire 'inside' the back of the plastic connector on the coil connector, on the metallic terminal of the black/yellow wire. If the coil is good, it'll spark to the bolt head. You're manually firing the ignition coil.
Thank you for that explanation! I will test the coil soon.
so based on all these tests, it seems I need an ICM, as it is not sending the signal to the ignition coil. It appears I have a pip signal, I have 12vdc to the distributor and I also have ground to the distributor. Does this seem accurate?
If the ICM is the culprit, it appears to be available from rockauto(motorcraft) for 115 dollars CAD. It appears a brand new cardone distributor from rockauto comes with a distributor cap, rotor, new pip, new ICM. The cardone distributor costs 107 dollars CAD. I am not quite sure what to do. Rock auto does not have the pip sensor in stock... Is it worth it to get a new distributor? Will the new motorcraft ICM come with the thermal paste?
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