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really low oil pressure. It’s definitely on its way out
Sounds like a typical 335 series.
Got one running around here that won't lift the gauge off of the low needle rest when warm (actually less than 6 PSI all the time after running a few minutes) and has been hauling water for years.
Roll some rod and main bearings in it and keep driving it. Putting an FE in place of any other engine family requires a lot more than just hoping the existing C6 will bolt up.
Got one running around here that won't lift the gauge off of the low needle rest when warm (actually less than 6 PSI all the time after running a few minutes) and has been hauling water for years.
Roll some rod and main bearings in it and keep driving it. Putting an FE in place of any other engine family requires a lot more than just hoping the existing C6 will bolt up.
Trade what? Your whole car with the 351, or something else?
Are you looking to get the car, or to get to 302?
I’m a fan of the 302, but other than being slightly lighter I would call the 302 a downgrade.
Trade what? Your whole car with the 351, or something else?
Are you looking to get the car, or to get to 302?
I’m a fan of the 302, but other than being slightly lighter I would call the 302 a downgrade.
it’d be car for car. Fairlane for galaxie. Both in the exact same shape more or less
Up to you then. Both cars are cool, and both engines are good.
The 302 models usually carry oil pressure longer, but it sounds like you’re into an engine rebuild either way from your description.
My 400 is the same engine family as your 351 Cleveland and it always had low oil pressure. At hot idle, as was mentioned before, there was no movement of the needle.
But also no knocking or funny noises either and I ran it that way for almost 60,000 miles after I bought it.
I finally pulled it out to give it a performance rebuild.
But it wasn’t because of the oil pressure, it was because of lack of power.
Otherwise it ran fine as a daily driver, hauler and long trip taker.
That’s no guarantee of course, that you’re much older engine will live the same life that mine did at it’s much younger age.
Just by way of saying that low oil pressure in a 335 series engine on a Ford factory gauge doesn’t always mean the end of the world either.
Bottom line, if the trade seems more desirable to you, go for it.
Up to you then. Both cars are cool, and both engines are good.
The 302 models usually carry oil pressure longer, but it sounds like you’re into an engine rebuild either way from your description.
My 400 is the same engine family as your 351 Cleveland and it always had low oil pressure. At hot idle, as was mentioned before, there was no movement of the needle.
But also no knocking or funny noises either and I ran it that way for almost 60,000 miles after I bought it.
I finally pulled it out to give it a performance rebuild.
But it wasn’t because of the oil pressure, it was because of lack of power.
Otherwise it ran fine as a daily driver, hauler and long trip taker.
That’s no guarantee of course, that you’re much older engine will live the same life that mine did at it’s much younger age.
Just by way of saying that low oil pressure in a 335 series engine on a Ford factory gauge doesn’t always mean the end of the world either.
Bottom line, if the trade seems more desirable to you, go for it.
for reference I put 3000 miles on it in a few months exactly as it is now. Nothing has changed performance wise. It’s running just as good as when I got it. I just have a tendency to be pessimistic. Maybe it’s fine? No knocking or anything. Starts fairly easily. I just got freaked out when my mechanic said it’s probably on it’s way out. But then again, He’s been wrong a lot before haha. Ps- I found a rebuilt Cleveland in my area with paperwork for 4K. Seems like a good deal
If you a dyeing to swap out, swap out the bearings in your engine. Way less work than a 300 six or a flathead. Did you do a compression check? No reason why with regular Maintenace any Ford pushrod engine shouldn't go 200,000 miles. Not sure what your end goal is. Rebuild gasket set and valve stem seal with standard bearings if it's never been apart Just asking?
If you a dyeing to swap out, swap out the bearings in your engine. Way less work than a 300 six or a flathead. Did you do a compression check? No reason why with regular Maintenace any Ford pushrod engine shouldn't go 200,000 miles. Not sure what your end goal is. Rebuild gasket set and valve stem seal with standard bearings if it's never been apart Just asking?
Im honestly just thinking I may need a different mechanic. He took one look at my gauge and immediately said I needed a new engine etc. No in between. Just a whole new engine. I’m gonna get a second opinion
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