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I think it had been done before I came along, but my drain plug is stripped and now I have a leak. What's the right way to repair this? I hope I don't need a new pan, but how do I re-tap a hole without leaving some shavings inside? Would a helicoil kit work? I don't know what thread size it came with.
Any FLAPS is going to have self-tapping "oversized" drain plugs for exactly these situations. Go down there, tell them what you have, and tell them you need a "Single Oversize" drain plug and fresh gasket for it.
Check the head of the drain plug and see if it has any markings that may indicate if it already is oversized. It may say S.O., for single oversize, D.O. for double, etc., or something like that. Better yet, if you can, take it with you to the parts store and make sure you get one slightly larger diameter than what you have. I think they make up to triple oversize.
it would help if people didnt go ham on their drain plugs. I have yet to have issue but I Have been using 6 side box ends, 6 point sockets, and I only have used impacts to remove(Usually after breaking free normally) to be able to quickly get the hand away from oil easily.
Lube techs are especially bad for boogering plastic and aluminum threads.
Did you look at the plug to see if it was the threads on the plug that were stripped and not the pan? I overtightened a drain plug once and was pleasantly surprised to find that it was the threads on the plug that were wiped out and not the threads in the pan.
If you use a quick lube, and you hear a rattlegun, go somewhere else. It's a good rule of thumb.
my test starts and ends at "if you use quick lube" in terms of red flags lol!
But my gma insists on the place , a dealer, mopar, that screwed up and refused to fix the oil pan threads they screwed up on her last vehicle. so 2nd times the charm. (Just waiting for those monkeys to **** up)
my test starts and ends at "if you use quick lube" in terms of red flags lol!
But my gma insists on the place , a dealer, mopar, that screwed up and refused to fix the oil pan threads they screwed up on her last vehicle. so 2nd times the charm. (Just waiting for those monkeys to **** up)
My wife worked HR at a dealership and they had to let a tech go after the THIRD time he started a car before adding oil.
The tack welds on the plate inside the oil pan on my 302 on my 86 Grand Marquis broke. Now the bolt will turn each way freely, forever. At least it doesn't leak....
Got into the habit of taking off the oil filter and having someone else watch the oil flow as I run the motor quickly until it pumps it out. Barbaric as it is, it works, and I don't want to take the motor out just to remove an oil pan just to repair the belly.
The tack welds on the plate inside the oil pan on my 302 on my 86 Grand Marquis broke. Now the bolt will turn each way freely, forever. At least it doesn't leak....
Got into the habit of taking off the oil filter and having someone else watch the oil flow as I run the motor quickly until it pumps it out. Barbaric as it is, it works, and I don't want to take the motor out just to remove an oil pan just to repair the belly.
Can you just use a siphon tool they make them.. has a pump... you can even get a hose that fits down the dipstick and have a straight shot
Can you just use a siphon tool they make them.. has a pump... you can even get a hose that fits down the dipstick and have a straight shot
Had a siphon that broke down, now I have a new one, I'll try that this year. Always worried it would break down in the heat and might not be able to hold up to a real oil change, but I might as well give it another try.
Had a siphon that broke down, now I have a new one, I'll try that this year. Always worried it would break down in the heat and might not be able to hold up to a real oil change, but I might as well give it another try.
They sell affordable ones meant for oil changes. Plus you may as well do your oil change cold since you both need to wait a while and that will let you get the oil all out. as long as its not all slick 50 in there lol
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