I bought a 2000 f250 7.3 not running. The man said it shut off when he was driving and didn't try to hard to get it running.

I replaced the cam shaft position sensor and it will start up up now with a shot of starter fluid but only run for a sec till it burns off starter fluid. Before I replaced the cam sensor it wouldn't start with starter fluid. I removed the power from the glow plugs FYI.

Could the cam sensor be good enough to let it start with starter fluid but not give signal to the injectiors?

i have unplugged the oil pressure sensor. I have unplugged the heat coil in the fuel bowl. I replaced the injector computer (that hurt) fuel bowl is full with good pressure. Oil pump is good and primed.

I don't hear the injectors when cranking. And no white smoke

im really thinking the camshaft position sensor is not letting injectors work but idk if it's possible to get a rpm signal but still be bad. Rpm signal is a couple 100 when cranking. Where should I try next? Thanks for any help

 

First welcome..
You posted in the wrong section for a 2000 as they are different....

Please... Even with the glow plugs disconnected Do Not use any starting fluid.. Extremely bad things happen with diesels and starting fluid. Please do not do it.

Next Do Not Guess and throw parts at the truck.

Get FORScan or FORScan Lite and the adapter they tell you go get for the OBD II. Pull all codes and record them, clear them, pull codes again and let us know what you get. After codes, run all the diagnostic tests and tell us what you get.

Any control item or sensor for this truck needs to be OEM from a known reputable dealer. Do Not purchase from Fleebay or Cramazon, be extremely cautious about the corner store stuff as well. There are way too many counterfeit parts in the stores and the internet is not your friend with few exceptions on parts. BitterRoot, RiffRaff Diesel, Diesel O Rings, CNC Fab, and maybe a few others for the good stuff, of course the Ford or International counter guy are good options.

Now to the not start issue.

Do you get the WTS when the key is placed into the run position??? If no WTS your truck will never start.

Your batteries must be good. Do not count on the corner store for this either, their testers are barley good enough for a lawn mower battery, let alone a 1000 amp hour battery. Batteries resting should each read 12.6 volts after a few hours off the charger. Check both, while attached, if not the same voltage you have a cross over issue. Check all connections at the batteries, cables tight, clean, no burns, no discoloration, and absolutely no indication of corrosion now or in the past. Check all grounds at the engine, fender, and frame, see conditions from last sentence.
Your batteries must be in top notch condition because if they drop below 10.5 volts while cranking the truck will never start. Not sure which year but some can get away with 10 volts on crank.

Check your fuel. Is the tank above 1/4? See Hutch/ Harpoon mod for more information.
Do you have a good filter in the fuel bowl? Clean, not clogged, and the proper type?
Turn the key to run.. Do you hear the fuel pump located under the driver seat on the frame rail? The fuel pump should run for about 20 seconds, you may need a buddy to help out with this and you be under the truck.
When you drain the fuel bowl into a container.. again buddy system, does it flow with a bit of authority or does it trickle out? For best results.. cycle key and let the pump run a full cycle prior to takin the sample in a clean container, repeat this two times. Is the fuel clean?

Often overlooked is Oil. Is it reasonably fresh and at the proper level on the dip stick? No additives in the oil.
Have you pulled the inspection plug on the HPOP and checked the level? The oil should be within about an inch from the top, if not you have a drain back issue.

Check every connector everywhere on the engine for security.
Unplug the 42 pin connector over the driver side valve cover and look at the wires on the underside for damage..

Look at the attachments..


EDIT...
After re reading your post... You really do need to do the buzz test on FORScan..

 

Yes I get the WTS light. everything you said to do I have. Then I did it again probably a dozen times. I also put a new starter just in case that was old. Anything common found on the internet i have tried. I have put hours and hours reading and I'm a pretty good mechanic on gas engines. I disabled the fuel filter fuel block and confirmed fuel is leaving the bowl. Very good fuel pressure.

i bought an oem camshaft position sensor off ebay in the package but heres the thing it was opened and stapled shut. The cps just fell in. I didn't have to force it at all. I found that strange bc you usually have to work those in with a little force. I think I need to replace thst sensor..

I have done everything but the buzz test

 

OP, you're not gonna get too much help here, most of the guys in this section don't know which end of a multimeter you're supposed to hit the nail with. You might have better luck in the 7.3 Powerstroke forum.

 

Looks like your thread was moved to the 7.3 sub forum. I’ll bump it back to the top (first page) so it will get some attention.

 

Like jimmy said, get set up with forscan. It is much more than just a code reader. Once you have access to that, the folks can help you without firing a parts bazooka at it. Fuel pressure is one of the few things forscan can't read.

 

That's funny, I may borrow this one. No worries, you'll be listed in the acknowledgements.

 

oem CPS off e-bay.... box stapled shut.... no..no... get a new one from a sDealer.

When it shut down for the former owner, a code was tripped. Get that read.

no starter fluid.... EVER... no..no..

new starter... ok...

get your batteries charged up and then have them Load Tested... truck will not start if voltage falls below 10.50. (the glow plugs and starter will really pull down the voltage when engaged)

We will not be throwing parts at this, it should be simple.

Tin nut on the IPR and tight?

May need a new pig tail on the CPS. https://www.dieselorings.com/1999-20...lectrical.html

 

Ok so I checked my fuel pressure I'm getting like 90psi just turning the key on.
Here's the weird part. I put the fuel pressure hose to where the fuel line screws into the fuel bowl. When I cranked it it started right up and ran for like a min. It's has never has just started up and ran like that with no help.

Ok so do I have to much fuel pressure that its keeping it from starting is that even a thing?

I'm getting close guys. I paid like 1k for this truck and it's clean inside and out.

If anyone knows where to go from here please let me know today is one of my only days to work on it.

Thank you to everyone. I feel like a 7.3 mechanic with everything I know about this dang engine now.

 

I found this cut wire. Would that keep it from starting?

 

No
that is the 120v AC power wire to the block heater. Nothing to do with engine running. Unless it's -20⁰ outside...

 

Thank you.

 

Where exactly did you put the gauge? I’m wondering if you’re talking about the fuel return line. If that’s the case then you effectively deadheaded and disabled the pressure regulator. If the regulator wasn’t working correctly before and had low pressure (when not deadheaded) then that could explain why it started now.

 

I second Jason's hypothesis. The fuel inlet is low on the drivers side of the bowl, the return/pressure regulator is above it where the little housing is held on w/ 2 screws. If it has a bad spring or trash preventing it from closing then you'd have little to no pressure unless you capped it off with say a pressure gauge.

 

I replaced the fuel regulator spring and housing. That didn't fix it. I just bought 2 new batteries just so I could fs rule that out.