I’m new to the 6.0, so please be patient with me.

I bought a 2004 f350 with 175k miles that starts, but has no power. The guy I bought it from says he changed the oil cooler and it didn’t run right since. He thinks something electrical. I test drove the truck and it would run, no odd noises, no odd smoke. It has the following codes in the pcm; p0264, p0276, p0273, p2262, p2617. The injector codes I am suspecting to be the infect or harness. At least one of the connectors I can get to doesn’t have the retainer clip. I have a new harness on the way. I noticed the oil pressure gauge was slow to come up; found aftermarket cap with factory filter and the drain valve was not seated in its hole. I got new (Dorman) valve, factory oil cap and motor raft filter. Oil pressure responds better, but I think it’s still sluggish. Second time I drove the truck, it started leaking coolant under the turbo. After a little research, it looks like he cut off part of the Egr cooler pipe and installed longer piece of hose, so I had planned to pull the turbo. In the mean time, I found out the Egr cooler is leaking. I have an Egr delete kit on the way.

 

Right now, it starts but if you put it in gear to move it, the engine doesn’t rev. If you get a little momentum, the turbo will start to spoil and it will move. I had a snapon solid scanner on it and it would build over 2k psi of high oil pressure. I can tell the guy shouldn’t have been working on an engine like that. What other issues should I be looking for when I start working on it? Oh, I also noticed the fuel line from the filter to the passenger side head has a partial kink at the filter. Anything else I should be looking for as I tear it apart?

 

Check the MAP sensor hose and the nipple it connects to on the intake manifold (nothing plugged up with carbon, the hose isn't torn or leaking, hose fits tight on the nipple). Make sure the connector is solidly plugged in also.
Install the new injector harness you purchased. I would also look for damage at the 3 injectors giving you the codes (#2, #5, #6).
Additionally, check the resistance on the coils - at least on the injectors giving you the codes (see below for testing information).
Make sure the FICM connectors are not damaged and there are no bent pins (remove and inspect all 3 of them), then when re-installing make sure they properly "snap" into place.
Then - replace the kinked fuel line. That can be cause real problem getting fuel and fuel pressure to the injectors. The proper part # is 3C3Z-9A274-AA. It gets kinked when you don't use a back-up wrench.

Troubleshoot injector coils:
Unplug the injector and ohm the pins. Note: 1&2(open coil) and 3&4 (close coil).
pins 1 and 2 = 0.2 to 3.0 ohms
pins 3 and 4= 0.2 to 3.0 ohms
pins 1 and 3 = greater than 10,000 ohms
pins 1 and 4 = greater than 10,000 ohms
pins 2 and 3 = greater than 10,000 ohms
pins 2 and 4 = greater than 10,000 ohms
The pins are numbered on the plug. A light and a magnifying glass might help you read the pin numbers.
Test at ambient air temp.
Be advised these pins are small and hard to get on cleanly without touching the probes on the other pins - ie use the right probe and be careful to get a good test.

 

Thanks for all the information. Got the tube ordered today. Hope to get a chance to tear into it in a week or two and give an update.