I have replaced the DPFE sensor, the O2 sensor, the EGR solenoid, the DPFE hoses, have no vacuum leaks. The EGR valve is functioning, ( runs rough idle when vacuum is applied). I continue to get a code 332 and the engine has no power. Can someone help me, PLEASE. This is driving me crazy.

 

HI here's what I found with a google search
https://www.2carpros.com/questions/f...ent-flow-detec
this is the google search link
https://www.google.com/search?client...anger+code+332

good luck take care be safe
tim

 

I had looked at that link prior to asking for help. I thank you for your response.

 

Does anyone else have any ideas about how I should continue?

 

Did you test those parts before replacing them? Unfortunately a lot of new parts are worse than the old part so you might need start from scratch and test the new parts to see if they are actually working correctly. From what I understand you have a flow issue. I have a B2 but other than dealing with that once in a while I don’t remember enough from my time at the dealer in the 90’s concerning the smaller trucks.

You could try to message rla2005 and Conanski to see if they have Ford manuals for the small trucks. Those guys usually spend their time over on the FSB and ‘87-96 F-Series forums. They might be able to post test procedures for you.

 

Unfortunately, it says I dont have permission to send messages. I will try to get in touch with them though. Thank you for replying.

 

I’m not sure but you might not have enough posts.

 

Ok, lets think about this some more. Considering the vintage of this puppy, the parts replaced, the DTC 332 that goes unchanged, that says the system isn't sensing any DPFE sensor signal change After the ECM has called for the EGR VSV to cause the EGR valve to move, suggests to me that carbon deposits Under the EGR valve might be blocking the DPFE sensor pressure high temp feedback port, kinda like having a stuffy nose we can't breathe through, so the DPFE sensor can't detect that the EGR valve has opened, so it never sends the ECM a signal saying I know you just had the Vacuum Switching Valve open to apply some vacuum to the EGR diaphragm so it'll open the EGR valve & feed the engine some of its own pooh, to keep NO2 down.

SO, remove the EGR valve & Closely / Carefully look Underneath where the rust red color High Temp DPFE feedback hose connects. If the engine uses oil the feedback port under the EGR valve can be blocked with carbon, or the pipe stem the high temp hose connects to, or the hose can be blocked too, so make sure its Fully open all the way to the DPFE sensor. Also make sure the high temp hose isn't cracked or soft & loose fitting as it sees some high temps, so replace it with the Specified high temp material if damaged or hard & baked out. Check the other (black) DPFE vacuum hose that goes to the port before the EGR valve too, if its loose fitting, cracked or otherwise compromised it can muck things up also. Most times its carbon deposits or blocked high temp feedback hose problem.

EDIT: If all that checks out, be sure the 5-Volt reference is present at the DPFE sensor & its return wire has continuity all the way back to the ECM connector on the engine bay firewall

Let us know what you find.

Some initial thoughts for your suspect list, let us know what you find.

 

Well Tim how is the EGR troubleshoot going, 238 curious minds would like to know???

 

Well he didn't reply but now im having trouble and have narrowed it down to either fuel pressure regulator or egr related. 94 automatic 4.0 4x4. Starts up fine in the cold and drives fine even when at operating temp. But when I stay idling (parked) and not moving for more than 15 minutes truck starts to want to stall and eventually dies. Starts right up again everytime but if I dont press the gas or start driving immediately rpm start to go down and gets irregular chasing idle never over 1k rpms before it dies. I've changed maf, iac, tps and gotten battery/alternator checked theyre fine. Any help would be appreciated

Always starts up fine in the cold and problems dont start until hot and idling. Ive poured a couple bottles of injector cleaner in it not sure if its that.

 

You narrowed it down to the fpr or EGR based on what testing? Are you getting KOEO codes for the EGR? What fuel pressure are you getting at the test port? Did you get codes for those other parts and they tested as being bad or did you throw your wallet at the problem?

How would dirty injectors cause the engine to stall out and die if it idles “too long?” When it stalls out, are you losing fuel or spark?

 

So glad I have a '96 ranger! My engine light came on a couple of months after it's last inspection because she so old and no longer required, so it didn't really matter. I fought with the emissions for years prior and replaced many parts to get it to pass and running. I'm lucky that the truck always runs smooth, just doesn't smell too nice at start up. I feel your pain, there are endless points where anything can and will fail. My biggest problem is the chipmunks that would come in to the warm engine and start eating stuff! It's a mystery to me, how the truck even runs! Best of luck finding the answer and I'll be watching 'cause my day will not be far away.

Last time I took it to a dealer, they broke it!

How long can a Ranger last?

 

I would suggest a tech do a tailpipe emission test. OBD1 doesn’t offer the scan results a OBD ll also make sue vacuum line to MAP sensor is clear. Good luck.