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Yea on line they were cheap but I was in the middle of getting the cooling system together and why I bought the hose with the spring in it local.
Dave ----
You are spending time and money on a dubious factory temperature gauge. We see it all the time. We have a little debate going on this forum, I say ditch the factory gauge and add a aftermarket gauge. That's what I do to all my vehicles I care about, using oil/temp/volt gauges to monitor the engine. But there are guys on here who like to keep their truck's original and want to keep the stock gauge. While they insist on that, they will admit in a case like yours, the least they would do is get a infrared temperature reader and read what the actual temps in the engine compartment are.
I think you need some verification of what the temps are before going forward. I have heard nothing about coolant spewing out or any knocking noises.
This is as kind as I can get about the stock gauges in these trucks.
Dave, I haven't spent any money on my stock temp guage and it's working properly for what, 36 years now. Yeah I did spend 15 minutes cleaning the electrical connection at the sender a few years back.
You on the other hand have spent way more time and money on aftermarket guages that you have to replace every 5 years.
Yeah, it's not a bad idea to use the infrared temp sensor to check engine temperatures against your guage reading plus you can use that tool to check your barbecue temps too.
But really if you can't open the hood and face your engine while running at operating temp and have some idea of whether it's running a little hot or not you need to spend more time with the hood open.
I do sympathize with you having the next generation truck with the phoney guages but the Bullnose guages are probably the best stock guages Ford used in their F series trucks.
The guages are there to help you detect a change in underhood conditions while in the cockpit. It's not some level of accuracy you are looking for but a change in conditions that you might want to pull over and look into. Know your guages. Better than an idiot light I would say and better than an idiot guage like you have in your 89.
Dave, I haven't spent any money on my stock temp guage and it's working properly for what, 36 years now. Yeah I did spend 15 minutes cleaning the electrical connection at the sender a few years back.
You on the other hand have spent way more time and money on aftermarket guages that you have to replace every 5 years.
Yeah, it's not a bad idea to use the infrared temp sensor to check engine temperatures against your guage reading plus you can use that tool to check your barbecue temps too.
But really if you can't open the hood and face your engine while running at operating temp and have some idea of whether it's running a little hot or not you need to spend more time with the hood open.
I do sympathize with you having the next generation truck with the phoney guages but the Bullnose guages are probably the best stock guages Ford used in their F series trucks.
The guages are there to help you detect a change in underhood conditions while in the cockpit. It's not some level of accuracy you are looking for but a change in conditions that you might want to pull over and look into. Know your guages. Better than an idiot light I would say and better than an idiot guage like you have in your 89.
Sorry I worded that wrong. He is spending time and money on a truck because of what a dubious factory temp gauge is telling him. Temporarily putting a aftermarket gauge under the dash like he did is a perfectly good way to do some testing. Once you verify what your temps are, and where the factory gauge is reading, you can determine if you have a problem, eventually fix the problem, and eventually take the aftermarket gauge back out if you don't like it being there.
Sorry I worded that wrong. He is spending time and money on a truck because of what a dubious factory temp gauge is telling him. Temporarily putting a aftermarket gauge under the dash like he did is a perfectly good way to do some testing. Once you verify what your temps are, and where the factory gauge is reading, you can determine if you have a problem, eventually fix the problem, and eventually take the aftermarket gauge back out if you don't like it being there.
Thanks for the response I didn稚 think about it partially opening. I always think about it fully opening. I guess you would be right because a little water did come out from under the heater core. Not much. I just squeezed the hose. And it felt like there was no pressure. I believe what I installed was like a 170 degree thermostat maybe a little higher. The engine didn稚 feel hot. I know my way around 351w and I know what they feel like hot. I mean I致e had them where I could cook an egg on the intake and I didn稚 seem to have it that hot. But I致e also never had anything larger than a half ton. So I知 inexperienced with I believe what would be a 3 core radiator. Just to be safe though I知 going to replace the lower heater hose to make sure it痴 not collapsing. I知 going to put a manual temp gauge. And flush the radiator just to be sure. Because there was definitely some rust in the radiator. Not much though.
Cool! Bigger radiator will get rid of heat more easily, especially with a mechanical fan. They're never "off", and for the first few minutes of running cold they will pull a lot of air.
Sorry I should of added this before. I believe I did have the heater on. I turned it on probably at 3/8 of the gauge and if never got past half.
For those that use infrared temperature gauges on the engine where should I test and what should the temperature be? Test the intake and be around 200 max?
I'd test at the thermostat housing. That temperature is approximately what the thermostat is reacting to.
Replaced thermostat with 175 temp fail safe thermostat. Checked lower hose springs, they were good. Bought a new hose and springs for no reason. Extra parts! I finished the heater core which was a huge challenge because they put an aftermarket dealer added air conditioner and rigged how the plenum was installed. So I had to do my own rigging to the plenum. I also installed a heater resonator, the ground was broke off the old one and it only had one speed now it has all speeds. I flushed the engine and radiator with a garden hose not much rust just a little rubber old sealant probably from an old thermostat. I put in my fluids. And also I had bought a infrared thermometer. After an hour of idling the thermostat housing stays at around 185-190 degrees. It took about 25 minutes to get to full temp in 90 degree weather. Great! Now to dilly dally into some voltage regulator, alternator, and possible wiring problems.
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