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So a few months ago, I converted my drum brakes to disc and well… I have not been able correctly adjust the parking brake adapter that is an extra… has anyone found a way to make these work? A checked all conversion kits out there before i purchased and this one seem to have positive comments about it.. I got the kit at 4X4 lug nut website, reached out to them, showed them these photos and was told it was installed correctly.. Not sure what the issue is.
So a few months ago, I converted my drum brakes to disc and well… I have not been able correctly adjust the parking brake adapter that is an extra… has anyone found a way to make these work? A checked all conversion kits out there before i purchased and this one seem to have positive comments about it.. I got the kit at 4X4 lug nut website, reached out to them, showed them these photos and was told it was installed correctly.. Not sure what the issue is.
Just asking.. Thanks.
[Looks like a quality product.] I've never installed one. So here's a few observations for start.
Your E/parking cables and flex hoses seem vulnerable to possible damage.
1. Tension your cables so their locations are further from the wheel.
2. [Reposition your flex hoses and hard plumb the brake lines to bring them higher and remove that loop.] Very easy to use store bought lengths with jogs or pigtails, or cut to length and re-flair but must use a double flairing tool, and bleed.
3. The present tension of the cables application for E/parking brake appears at full stroke toward tension- brake on. If that is not enough movement to lock the rotors, try releasing the tension on brake cable and remove the nut from the lever to see if the connection is splined our square. If the connection is spline or square try removing & replacing the lever one tooth further from the cable.
I hope this helps. Keep us informed.
So a few months ago, I converted my drum brakes to disc and well… I have not been able correctly adjust the parking brake adapter that is an extra… has anyone found a way to make these work? A checked all conversion kits out there before i purchased and this one seem to have positive comments about it.. I got the kit at 4X4 lug nut website, reached out to them, showed them these photos and was told it was installed correctly.. Not sure what the issue is.
Just asking.. Thanks.
not on topic but where did you buy the kit at? id love to replace the drums on mine for discs( i did it on my old s10 blazer years ago). does it effect the abs at all or??
not on topic but where did you buy the kit at? id love to replace the drums on mine for discs( i did it on my old s10 blazer years ago). does it effect the abs at all or??
He said 4x4 lugnut website, so I bet it's this here:
Now I may be a minority in this, but I'd never replace a properly functioning drum brake on a 3/4-ton or larger truck with one of these (and I absolutely positively hate drum brakes). If you compare them to what the OEMs are using in the same weight category application you'll understand why. The only way I would consider safe is either robbing OEM parts off a newer axle, or just a full axle swap to one of those. Yes there's welding involved in both those jobs (with one exception), so it obviously ain't for everyone. Luckily there are lots of fab and welding shops just about everywhere that can handle it - I think the peace of mind that comes with using a properly designed for the application (or even larger if you so wanted) brake far outweighs the cost at the welder's.
The exception I mentioned are the 1st and 2nd gen Superduty axles - they bolt right up to OBS and older chassis. The issue there is the difference in bolt pattern, meaning you either run different wheels front end rear or you get creative in other ways.
Now if you got a F150 or a Bronco and you're swapping 8-lug axles under that then I suppose these kits will be more than sufficient for the job. But in a big have truck that actually sees proper work, I personally wouldn't chance it.
ROBFINGER, I came across this thread in swapping in the later metric lug pattern axle.
Long read but quite interesting what the guy did trying to work through it.
His final end results looked pretty good, and he ened up with the 8 on 6.5.
Now I may be a minority in this, but I'd never replace a properly functioning drum brake on a 3/4-ton or larger truck with one of these (and I absolutely positively hate drum brakes). If you compare them to what the OEMs are using in the same weight category application you'll understand why. The only way I would consider safe is either robbing OEM parts off a newer axle, or just a full axle swap to one of those. Yes there's welding involved in both those jobs (with one exception), so it obviously ain't for everyone. Luckily there are lots of fab and welding shops just about everywhere that can handle it - I think the peace of mind that comes with using a properly designed for the application (or even larger if you so wanted) brake far outweighs the cost at the welder's.
The exception I mentioned are the 1st and 2nd gen Superduty axles - they bolt right up to OBS and older chassis. The issue there is the difference in bolt pattern, meaning you either run different wheels front end rear or you get creative in other ways.
Now if you got a F150 or a Bronco and you're swapping 8-lug axles under that then I suppose these kits will be more than sufficient for the job. But in a big have truck that actually sees proper work, I personally wouldn't chance it.
point taken... i guess once i get my vacuum situation under control it wont be as bad of an issue because i remember when i 1st got my truck the brakes worked good but after my vacuum pump went out its been down hill ever since constantly chasing the better brakes of yesteryear... has anyone considered drilled drums? i know there was a place that was in some 4x4 rags back in the day that used to do it that said it improved performance but i dont know if theyre in business any more....
ROBFINGER, I came across this thread in swapping in the later metric lug pattern axle.
Long read but quite interesting what the guy did trying to work through it.
His final end results looked pretty good, and he ened up with the 8 on 6.5.
Yeah I know of that thread, I like the last version with the large-bore 9/16" studs. The question is whether Quigley (I gathered from Brad's comment they're the source for those) is willing to sell them to ppl as a spare part of sorts? Something to look into you know.
point taken... i guess once i get my vacuum situation under control it wont be as bad of an issue because i remember when i 1st got my truck the brakes worked good but after my vacuum pump went out its been down hill ever since constantly chasing the better brakes of yesteryear... has anyone considered drilled drums? i know there was a place that was in some 4x4 rags back in the day that used to do it that said it improved performance but i dont know if theyre in business any more....
Drilled drums? Like, how are they drilled, and why?
Nothing you do to drums will mitigate their design flaws. If you want a cheap-ish bolt-on upgrade and you're willing to stay with drums and put up with all their bull**** AND you have a SRW truck then swapping in an 89-96 DRW axle (from a pickup-box dually) will give you 3.5" wide drums and shoes and slightly larger wheel cylinders. But it will obviously be wider, forgot how much wider exactly, something like 3" per side is what I seem to recall - which given how deep the SRW wheels live in their fenders to begin with might end up OK. Towcat (RIP) once posted a picture of a trailer made from a frame and box of a SRW truck but running a DRW axle (with single wheels obviously) and it actually looked quite decent, well to me at least lol
