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1 wire alternator swap

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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 05:55 PM
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1 wire alternator swap

Have a 93 F350 7.5 alternator died, thinking of a 1 wire, looking at power master. Is this hard to do? It looks like just taking the green/red wire to the alt? Any tips etc. thanks
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert S
Have a 93 F350 7.5 alternator died, thinking of a 1 wire, looking at power master. Is this hard to do? It looks like just taking the green/red wire to the alt? Any tips etc. thanks
why do you want to go 1 wire. do you plan on going to a ford 3g? If you do, just use a alt that uses the factory wiring circuits. 1 wire is a sales tag but the purposes in which a 1 wire is great compared to wiring them properly are very few. I can think of one off the top of my head, my 1940s massey harris tractor which had a 12 volt conversion. thats a great use for a 1 wire lol
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 07:31 PM
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I wouldn't do it. A 1993 model year truck may already have a 3G. If not, time for a 120 Amp 3G upgrade.

Not a fan of those one wire wonders.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by rla2005
I wouldn't do it. A 1993 model year truck may already have a 3G. If not, time for a 120 Amp 3G upgrade.

Not a fan of those one wire wonders.
what is the 120amp upgrade, I have a 75amp in there right now, I’m good with 120amps.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert S
what is the 120amp upgrade, I have a 75amp in there right now, I’m good with 120amps.
the high end factory offering, so its a 3g alternator that is slightly larger than the small one

its kinda hard to see but the left one is larger than the right one. the right one is a factory 3g 75 amp and the left is a 3g 120 or hwatever amp. physically larger stator, case, etc. On your truck im not sure how they mount but I know you have a dedicated belt for that ,so there is a chance you could need a new belt depending on where it places the pulley etc
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by AuroraGirl
the high end factory offering, so its a 3g alternator that is slightly larger than the small one

its kinda hard to see but the left one is larger than the right one. the right one is a factory 3g 75 amp and the left is a 3g 120 or hwatever amp. physically larger stator, case, etc. On your truck im not sure how they mount but I know you have a dedicated belt for that ,so there is a chance you could need a new belt depending on where it places the pulley etc
Is there a specific model to pull this/order? The plug is different mine is flat and wide, can I buy a new plug and wire it accordingly? Are there wiring diagrams for this swap? I just figure if I’m going to put a new one in why not upgrade??? Thanks for the info!!!
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert S
Is there a specific model to pull this/order? The plug is different mine is flat and wide, can I buy a new plug and wire it accordingly? Are there wiring diagrams for this swap? I just figure if I’m going to put a new one in why not upgrade??? Thanks for the info!!!
can you show pics of what you have and what the plug looks like? to my knowledge a 2g plug was the same shape and pinout as a 3g, but I foudn this on a google search:

Originally Posted by seagiant
PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE POST BEFORE ASKING QUESTIONS!!!

Had to start this thread since there is much misinformation and confusion about the 3G alternator upgrade. This is not an install thread, just a guide on where to get the alt you need, a wiring diagram, and pulley sizing. All photos and some of the text is courtesy of Ryan McCormick.

Why go 3G?
Because your factory alternator is barely adequate for your truck, stock.
Added off-road lights or a big stereo?
You need a bigger alternator!
Need me to show you?

And that's alternator RPM, not engine rpm. The alt spins much faster than the engine.
Alt RPM = Engine RPM x Crank Pulley Diameter ÷ Alt Pulley Diameter.
87-92 is the blue line.
93-96 is the green line.
78-86 is less than the blue line.

There are 3 different mounting styles for the 3G alternator that can be used as an upgrade on other vehicles:

If you have a 66-86, anything with v-belts, or a 87-98 300 (4.9L) or 460 (7.5L): you'll need a Pivot Mount w/ 8.25” ear spacing alternator. Some 90, any 91-92, and some 93-99 non DOHC Ford Taurus will be able to donate it's alternator to your truck. On your v-belt truck, you may also be able to use one that fits the 87-92 serpentine setup (Pivot Mount w/ 7.00” ear spacing) but some may have fitment issues with smog pump location. The Pivot Mount w/ 8.25” ear spacing can be swapped into:
1966-1986 V-belt Mustangs
1966-1987 V-Belt Broncos/E-Series/F-series
1992-1997 4.9L & 7.5L Bronco/F-Series/E-Series
Other V-belt vehicles that can adjust to an 8.25” wide Pivot mount alternator

A wide-eared Taurus alt will ONLY fit a 302 or 351W if it is a V-belt setup since it's wider than a serpentine one.

If you have an 87-92 302 (5.0L) or 351W (5.8L): you have a 2G alternator. This is an early serpentine style. This can only be replaced with a Pivot Mount w/ 7.00” ear spacing alternator. Minor bracket clearancing may be required. This can be found in the following cars:
93-99 narrow-eared non-DOHC Taurus
94-95 V8 Mustang
94-00 V6 Mustang
94-97 V6 T-Bird/Cougar
95-98 Windstar
91-94 V6 Lincoln Continental.

The early serpentine car and truck alts on Ryan's site are interchangable but the plug and charge stud are clocked differently to fit the wiring to the bracket better. The Pivot Mount w/ 7.00” ear spacing can be swapped into:
1987-1992 Broncos/E-Series/F-series
1966-1995 Mustangs
Other vehicles that use a 7.00” wide Pivot mount alternator

If you have a 93-96 302 (5.0L) or 351W (5.8L): you have a Side Mount 3G already but a 95 amp one. You DO NOT need to get a wiring harness, as since you already have a 3G, it's plug and play!!! I strongly urge you to get a larger charge cable and megafuse though.
For a 130 amp, you can get that for a:
93-96 V8 Econoline with Air Conditioning or the High Output Alternator options
97-03 V6 Econoline E-Series or F-150
95-01 4.0 V6 Explorer or Ranger

at your local parts house for less than eBay.]
You'll need the one for late serp. vehicles.
The Side Mount can be swapped into:
1993-1997 5.0L, 5.8L & 7.3L Bronco/F-Series/E-Series
Other vehicles that use a Side Mount alternator
Or you could try to find one like that at a junkyard but good luck.

Plug Clocking: Each style may have the rear plugs clocked 3 different ways to fit their various vehicles better. They will still fit no matter the clocking but you can remove the case bolts, and reclock the rear to get your optimum position.

Charge Cables: When you swap from a 1G or a low output 3G to a 130 or more amp 3G, although you do not NEED a larger charge cable such as a 2 Gauge, it is a great idea. Smaller wires/cables cannot always handle such a load and they tend to heat up, some to the point of melting the wire and could start a fire. ALWAYS make sure you use a megafuse rated at least 15-25 amps above your alternator amperage.

Pulleys: For pulleys, you can either re-use your old one, which sometimes you may need a very small washer to use as a spacer if it rubs in the 3G case at all, or you can get a different sized one. It all depends on your needs. A smaller pulley will spin the alternator faster at idle to create maximum output. A larger pulley will allow the engine to rev higher without driving the alternator to fast. Large 3G alternators are safe to ~15,000RPM max. Again, Alt RPM = Engine RPM x Crank Pulley Diameter ÷ Alt Pulley Diameter.

Factory Carb Users:
If you have a Factory Ford carburetor (Holley model 4180) with a wire that connects directly to your 1G alt to your electric choke, get a 12 volt electric choke for a Holley 4160, P/N 45-223, and swap it out. Then wire the new choke to 12 volts.
So it looks like you use the same alt as me(4.9l i6, as noted in his awesome summary, they are both 8.25 inch pivot mount which the one in my photo before is that
Althoguh, I do NOT recommend DB Electrical as a source. They were cheap and it shows. the thing is not that much use, albeit 2 years in, and I put the OE back on and am charging the truck once a week.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 06:12 AM
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That’s a great read!! I just looked and picture attached, I have the correct plug as it describes. And an additional plug at the top of the alternator, I’m not sure of yet. So who makes quality aftermarket alternators? If I go with a 91-92 Taurus. What do you think the top plug is used for?

You can see the lower rounded plug below to the right.

This is the top plug
 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 10:14 AM
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New Parts Store grade alternators are almost all garbage. Don't waste your money.

The *best* option, really, is to pull one out of something with relatively low mileage in the boneyard, especially if it looks like it's still OEM. If it's really worrying to you, and you still have one local, take it down to your local electrical shop, and have them give it the once over, and freshen it up if necessary.

A Parts store grade rebuild would be my second choice.

Companies like Powermaster are building generally decent products, but I don't personally find them to be worth the money, unless shiny is important to you. That's a decision you have to make for yourself, some people like shiny.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 12:33 PM
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For sheets & giggles, I looked at rock for what was listed. It's crap for F-350/7.5s. Nothing over 80amp.

Look under E-350s & its a smorgasbord :

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...generator,2412
 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert S
That’s a great read!! I just looked and picture attached, I have the correct plug as it describes. And an additional plug at the top of the alternator, I’m not sure of yet. So who makes quality aftermarket alternators? If I go with a 91-92 Taurus. What do you think the top plug is used for?

You can see the lower rounded plug below to the right.

This is the top plug
What makes a 1-wire alternator is the "self-exciting" regulator, which starts producing voltage at a certain RPM and doesn't stop until it stops spinning. The only benefit is a cleaner engine bay, but that assumes you remove the oem alternator wiring.

I am running a 90a from a later year 460 pickup. It was a simple swap. I don't know if OBS pickups ever used a v-belt or what year they switched to serpentine.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jtab
What makes a 1-wire alternator is the "self-exciting" regulator, which starts producing voltage at a certain RPM and doesn't stop until it stops spinning. The only benefit is a cleaner engine bay, but that assumes you remove the oem alternator wiring.

I am running a 90a from a later year 460 pickup. It was a simple swap. I don't know if OBS pickups ever used a v-belt or what year they switched to serpentine.
his year 460 uses a serpentine belt for the accessories and then a shorter wide or poly or multi-v belt, looks like a serpentine basically, that drives his alternator and it is manually tensioned.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jtab
What makes a 1-wire alternator is the "self-exciting" regulator, which starts producing voltage at a certain RPM and doesn't stop until it stops spinning. The only benefit is a cleaner engine bay, but that assumes you remove the oem alternator wiring.

I am running a 90a from a later year 460 pickup. It was a simple swap. I don't know if OBS pickups ever used a v-belt or what year they switched to serpentine.
It's not applicable to the OP's truck, but yes, many of the Bullnoses still used V-belts. I don't *think* any of the Bricknoses did.
 
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