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A true one wire is just that, only the large wire to hook up. They're common in custom built rigs for their simplicity but do have drawbacks. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I've also heard some one-wire units don't put out near as much at idle. I've heard lots of people call the common GM alternator a one wire, but it actually has the large wire and a two wire connector.
Why do you want to change it? I haven't heard of any problems with our type of alternators. (I'm talking 93+, not the earlier ones with the bad connector.) I think you'd be better off sticking with the stock type, and it would actually be simpler.
my reasoning behind the switch is the compatability with '69 wiring. After all the issues with the engine I'm not looking to rewire. If you know of a way to retain the stock '95 alt. and connect to '69 harness I would love to do that. I am building this as a rock crawler so low rpms is where my juice will be needed.
I'd use a GM two wire. The one wire conversions often times are really a two wire conversion. My dad went through four on a crane before they realized that it just needed to be energized to charge. It was labeled as a one-wire unit, he even had a guy he new rebuild it to be one wire, but it just wouldn't charge until the field was energized.
I see. I thought you were just wanting to put a one-wire in a 95 truck. Makes more sense now.
Pfogle, when you say the field needs to be energized, are you meaning a "turn on" wire wired in with the ignition switch? I know that's how the older Fords (probably still the newer ones too) work. The only true one-wire alternator I've seen in action would not charge when you started the engine. You had to goose the throttle to "turn on" the alt.
A good alternator shop can build one that will put out a lot more amperage if you need the extra juice to operate electrical add-ons and such. It will however shorten the expected life though.If you're building a toy, it shouldn't matter about longevity.