Hello everyone,

I've always had an interest in these beautiful trucks. I now I want to buy one in running shape and work on it slowly. My goal is to have a reliable running truck with a nice paint job and clean interior, a decent lift perhaps 3" tops. I want something that is 1975 or older to avoid the Ca smog check. I've read a bit on the 360 engine being less than desirable. Are there any other engines, years, transmissions etc that I should be aware of? Is the highboy model ideal over lifting a regular model with todays parts? I can drive manual but prefer an automatic. Is there a preference over a 150, 250 or any other models in the early to mid 70s? Thanks for reading.

 

If you live in CA, as you said, get a 1975 or older. Try to get one that's in reasonable condition. I've got a 460 with a C6 automatic. I don't have any real complaints except possibly fuel economy. The 150s have a semi-floating axle. The 250s & 350s have a full floating axle. My axle ratio is 3.07. Higher numbers mean "snappier" acceleration, lower MPG, and more wear. If you do a lot of highway driving go for low numbers. Try to get a set of Ford Truck shop manuals for whichever year vehicle you get. Ford was getting into electronic ignition in the mid 70s. Older models will have points.

 

Please go into more detail on this, what number is low and which is high? what type of wear for the higher side? What do you mean by more points?

For anyone who could answer - How many different engines came in these models Why is the 360 not desirable?

 

On semi-floating axles, the axle carries the weight of the truck as well as drives the truck. On full floating axles, the axle only drives the truck. The weight is carried through a bearing directly to the housing. That's why they are used on the higher capacity vehicles like 250s & 350s. I have an F-250. I believe that the 3.07 is the lowest available. You might get a 2.XX ratio in a 150. Much of this information is in the shop manual. Generally when the engine turns faster you will get more wear (over time) for the same vehicle speed. The wear will likely show up in the engine. The points I referred to is in the ignition. In the old days mechanical points in the distributor were used to trigger the coil to get a spark at the spark plug. The newer electronic ignitions don't use the points. I have a 1976. My part of Louisiana has no emission checks. In 1976 Ford had 6 engines available: 300 c.i. 6 cylinder; 302 c.i. V-8; 360 c.i. V-8; 390 c.i. V-8 (2bbl. carb.); 390 c.i. V-8 (4bbl. carb.); 460 c.i. V-8 (4bbl. carb.).

 

I'm more partial to the 65-66 due to less stuff to mess with and has all the benefits of the twin I-beams with disc conversion, PS, and power brakes from later models. Plus they have less boxy styling. Engines for me come down to the FE's, Windsor's and Cleveland's. Never owned an auto trans in an older vehicle. Just seems to be overly complicated and takes the fun out of it. F250's if you just want a truck to do stuff with. F-100's if you want a Hot Rod.
Here's my 66 F250 CC CS 410ci 4sp with 410 rear end.

 

There’s nothing wrong with the 360 it’s just a low performance engine. You can rebuild it to a 390 or go wild if desired.

I’m guessing you want 4wd since you mentioned highboy. Could save you on the lift if you are happy with the stance. Like mentioned if you want to do truck stuff go for a 250 and you’ll have a highboy. If you don’t need much capacity look at 100/150 also.

goin for a lift and big tires low gearing axles aren’t going to be the best, but can be changed.

 

Agreed, it sounds like a '73-75 high boy would be what you're asking for.

The 360 , ( FE Series ) is a far superior engine to the 351-400 ( 335 Series ) in every way. I'm not sure who told you the 360 is less desirable but they're wrong. yes the 360 is gutless but so are the 351-400 so that doesn't hold water either.

You could lift a 1/2 ton too but unless you found a screaming deal the high boy would make more sense. isn't CA pretty strict on lift kits ? I know they send a lot of lifted rigs up here to sell because of CA law. not sure what that's all about but the high boy would be stock.

 

ca doesn’t have inspection aside from smog. I’ve never heard of any issues with lifts. The market for it is pretty sizeable.

 

Thanks for this info ill look into each of these engine sizes.

Beautiful truck, I actually like the boxy look of the 70s series trucks although yours looks great as well. What is overly complicated about the auto trans in older trucks? I had a manual trans on my 89 F150 but driving that in traffic was a nightmare. I don't plan to drive my perspective truck around too much so I may go manual if its the right deal, but I still prefer an auto.

I don't care for 4wd, wont be doing any climbing or 4x4. I just like the lifted look, I heard that a 4wd in these trucks is very bumpy, is that true? Did they only make highboys in 250s? I don't think I worded my question correctly regarding the lift - is the highboy lift "better" than buying a stock height and lifting that with todays parts and tech? I don't mind buying a stock height and getting bigger wheels/ a lift kit.

Luckily Ca hasn't restricted lift kits on classics yet, I should thank my overlords for allowing me the shred of freedom. I just realized that wikipedia has a nice bit of info on 5th and 6th gens, ill be reading that today, thanks for your input.

 

I have seen a few lifted 2wds, with the twin I beam front it results in front tires leaning out at the top, but then I've seen them corrected with different or bent I beams. If lifted is really what you want, a 4wd can be driven 100% in just 2wd, hubs unlocked. With 4wd, you have the option of using 4wd if needed, and you have a transfer case with a near doubling ability in gearing. A 4wd may be high enough that you choose to not add more lift.

I love the '60s trucks too, I like them best in 2wd, stock or lowered slightly, must have rake, short beds sure are pretty, 302 is good, but 351w or 351c or any of the FE series are my choice, even 360s work. 3 or 4 speed manuals are cool, but sometimes you just get tired of clutches and shifting, hard to beat a C-6 IMHO. Once you learn setting points and the effect of settings on timing, grease the point rub block, points are easy and reliable.

Bumpsides up through '72 are great too,

I spend so much time driving window down and AC off in my other newer vehicles that I'm stil thinking will remove parts of AC in my '77, it hasn't had a charge in over 20 years anyway.

Another thing I thought might pass on is that a f-100/150 will usually ride a little smoother unloaded than a 250. I also think a '77 or earlier 100/150 in 2wd drives better than a 4wd with stock steering as the "inverted Y" steering follows the I-beams better after years of fine tuning by Ford, where as they just used the same design on 4wd 100/150s up through '77 with a straight front axle, it never worked well ... but they fixed that in the '78-/79 F-150 4wds.

Have fun.

 

Thanks for that - Im really eyeing this one here. I need more pics and knowledge before I go see it.

https://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/d...501479178.html

 

“Highboy” is 4wd f250 73-77.5. 3/4 suspension is going to be rougher than half ton.
quality replacement suspension will be better on any model.

 

If you want a 2wd that makes things easier and cheaper. lots of engine choices before '76 and they're all good. not sure why you'd lift a 2wd but whatever.

The pickup you.ve listed is over priced in my opinion. but it looks straight as long as it's not a bondo bucket you could do worse. if it has a green interior just know parts are hard to get in that color. that bumper really needs to come up , since that's a mess you have to wonder what else they hacked doing the lift. .

 

I'm a taller person and mostly for the look. Thanks for the advice, I probably wont be keeping the paint on any truck I buy as I plan to get a nice paint job. The truck in the link seems to be one of the "nicest" ones in that price range around southern Ca.

 

I looked through those pics, that F-250 2wd with 3" body lift viewed from the side looks to have near about same stance as a unmolested F-100/150 in 4wd.

That 3" body lift screwed up a nice 2wd in my book. First thing I noticed was that bumper, but then there are other pitfalls or fails that may be hidden.

That seller might get his price, but some byuer is gonna be second guessing the deal is my guess.