Hello all,



I'm new to the forums, and diesel truck ownership, so I am very uneducated and some of the comments/questions are probably pretty basic. Last year, I purchased a 1999 Ford F250 Super Duty 7.3L 4x4 w/ 260xxx miles on it, for $5200. I knew, given the previous owner's description, and the price, that it was going to need some work done. Unfortunately I made 3 incorrect assumptions - 1. Most of the work needing to be done/the reason for the low price, was due to cosmetic issues (the original bed was rusted out, and replaced w/ one that was a different color than the cab), and 2. I overestimated my roommates ability to determine the health of the truck when we went to check it out (he worked at an auto shop for about a year, and did own a 94 F250 diesel at one point); his lack of inspection skills was later exposed by the amount large of repairs I have had to do, none of which he pointed out as potential problems I would soon face. 3. The previous owner was a diesel tech, so I figure it must be in good shape. Now I am wondering if he saw this truck was a lost cause, and I got gyped, hard.

Before I continue, my main question/point of this post - I have put in around $6000 for repairs/replacement parts, and the most recent trip to my mechanic, it was brought up that the transmission might be next, and in the very near future, and since this shop does not "do transmissions" (rebuilds, they only do replacements), that would cost $3700 in parts (for the transmission he found when he did a brief search online), on top of the cost of labor. I am trying to determine if this truck is worth me continuing to put money into, or if this is just going to turn into an endless pit. My thought process is that if the health of the engine can be determined, and it will last as long as the 7.3s should, then I don't mind putting more money into it. My roommate (same one who did the poor initial inspection), is of the belief that this cannot be done, and claims that assessing the engine health would cost what it would to rebuild the engine, as it would need to be totally dissected to do so.

The last major repair I had to do, was Flex Plate replacement (which I posted a video of about a month ago, asking "what this sound might mean". The strange this was, they had just replaced the Flex Plate a month before. The mechanic said he jhad a hunch, but wasn't exactly sure why that happened, and because of that, couldn't ensure it wouldn't happen again. He said something about some bolts were missing(?) and there was some issue with what connected it to the torque converter, and the tech the first time around didn't bring that up/address it but they jimmy-rigged something this time to make it work? He said the next step if it cracked again, would be to just replace the transmission, but as I noted - he doesn't do diesels, so I'm not sure about this whole situation.

So here are my main questions -

1. Can the health of the engine be determined at a reasonable cost? I would need to find a diesel tech, as my current mechanic/shop, does not know much about diesels.

2. What are the other common major parts failures/issues I need to be aware of? Would I be able to determine whether or not they are some of these things are "on their way out"?

3. (not important until I have answers and a plan of action for 1 & 2) - Where should I look for an automatic transmission, if it does look like doing so is worth it, and what transmission would I want to purchase?

4. I saw a FB marketplace post for a $4800 99 F250 7.3 that had some issues, but is claimed to have a brand new (1k miles) transmission in it. Is it a stupid idea to purchase it, and use that transmission, since that is about the cost of a transmission, and then I would have that truck for parts.



Below is the list of all of the work I have had done to it since I have purchased it.

- Sway Bar Welded ($339)

- Windshield Replaced ($224)

- Sway Bar Links; Ball Joints; Front Stabilizer Bar; Brake Pads & Rotors; Calipers & Axle Seals; Alignment ($2014)

- Hydroboost; Master Brake Cylinder ($1,207)

- Power Steering Pump ($249)

- Flex Plate; Starter ($1647)

- Trailer Wiring Issue ($486)

- Power Steering High Pressure Hose ($238)

- Flex Plate ($0)










Past Owner -

- Uppipes

- Turbo Pedestal Delete

- Injector Wires & Valve Cover Gaskets

I've attached some pictures of the truck as well, and thanks so much for all the help. I apologize for the long post, and if this is in the wrong sub-forum.

Chris

 

I wouldn't own one of these trucks if I couldn't do quite a bit of the work myself. They are old trucks, but it sure beats having a $600 monthly payment.

 

The engines are pretty stout and reliable. Place the oil cap upside down on the tube and see if it just shakes around or blows off with pressure. If there's no pressure. then generally, the major part(s) of the engine are good to go. It doesn't look bad from here. I have a parts truck so I vote on getting one if it's cheap enough. Transmissions are pricey and $4000+ would not surprise me.

 

I have been putting $3-5k a year into mine since I got it 3 years ago at 261k. At 20+years old, everything wears out sooner or later. If I had to pay people to do the work on it, I couldn't afford it.
Blow by test, set the oil fill cap on the stand upside down. Does it fall off or shoot up into the hood? See any silicon around the wster pump or thermostat?
Go into the tech folder and get set up with forscan. You can do a lot of diagnostics with forscan.

 

IMO, $3k-$4k per year is excessive, even if that includes paying someone else to do the work. The question I would have for that amount of work is, "How much of it is appearance or optional upgrade/modification expense?"

Reliability and Longevity is generally not a concern - My perspective is purely on my experience with this truck and a 7.3 Excursion I had for about 7 years. I've owned the truck in my signature since 2006 and have put 225K miles on it. I've also done most of the work myself, and my expense for genuine repair needs has been minimal. Granted, I don't tow or haul anything except my own rear end, and being 2wd, it's a pavement princess living a rather simplistic DD life of 35-225 miles daily (mostly 35 miles/day any more). The only serious gear replacements I've needed has been a front cover, and I did the LPOP, front main seal, and oil pan gasket while the engine was out. Aside from that, my repairs have been the usual wear items: tires and brakes, ball joints, u-joints, alternator, starter, carrier bearing, brake rotors, one PS hose, VC gaskets, GP's, GP relay, up pipes, fuel bowl o-rings/seals, fuel pump, water pump, radiator, shocks, throttle pedal assembly, turn signal switch, wiper motor, bulbs, batteries, filters, HPOP hoses, and fluid changes. At current 340K miles, I'm still running the originally factory-installed big dollar items such as injectors, HPOP, turbo, A/C compressor, PS pump, PS gear, rear end, and transmission. On road trips, I'll still get 16-17 mpg (hand calculated) while driving 75-80 mph, and average about 15.5 for my DD trips to work and back.

 

Nearly a decade ago, I bought a 2000 F-250 4x4 ZF6 to be a tow pig for our newly discovered hobby, RV'ing. Each year since then we take long distance trips from GA to anywhere in this great nation. We have been from the Atlantic coast to the Pacific coast and from the Gulf of Mexico to North Dakota.

I say all of this because since day 1 we have built our truck around reliability, efficiency and longevity. We attained our goal and have about $15,000 total into the truck including tires.

Unloaded it gets 18.5 MPG and loaded with the 5th wheel it gets 12.3 MPG. The GCVW when traveling is 18,000 - 20,000 lbs based on cargo. Although, I drive like I have nowhere to be and very rarely over 65 MPH. I often coast to stop lights instead of using the brakes.

I repair things as they break, wear out or need to be updated. No way would I say I spend $3,000 - $4,000 a year on the truck. I am smart about my expenses and try to buy things when it is financially advantageous. It doesn't always work out like that, but often times it does.

Reoccurring costs like oil and filters can be bought well ahead of time on sale if you have space to store them.

Our truck now has 266,000 miles on it and we trust it to drive from GA to WA right now as it sits. This is not to say something won't need attention along the way, but life is an adventure. You have to have confidence in the vehicle though. We go by the "cry once" method when possible. For example, I paid $500 for high quality AGM batteries 4.5 years ago because when we are in the middle of nowhere on BLM land, I count on them.

It is no $100,000 6.7L diesel, but it gets over the Rocky mountains just fine towing a 5th wheel, is paid for and I enjoy driving it.

 

Brakes, brake lines/hoses, injectors/cups, water pump, hoses, oil cooler, dipstick adapter repair, donaldson filter, gauges, tuner,tires,ect. All things that are worn out on a 260k truck. Getting ready to have the front axle gone thru, the driver's inner seal leaks. Unplanned repairs with dorman parts 1000 miles from home that need replaced shortly. Uvch and gasket. All motorcraft from clay. This stuff adds up quick
I don't think I drag my travel trailer as much as you do, but we have hit 9 states in the last 2 years with 5 more we want to do this fall. I need stuff I can feel good about. Lost the toneau cover and bought a shell. Traded a well used jd mower for a sliding cargo tray. Just trying to set me up for the long haul.
Both times we have been to CO in the last 3 years has left me stranded. First time was the right side uvch. Thank goodness my oldest daughter lives on Gunnison. We still rented a one way car back home and flew back in 3 weeks later after it was repaired. Daughter had a friend who drug our 264bh and parked it at their ranch. Second time my starter failed at Mesa Verde. Took the daughter 4 hours to get there with a Irish mafia starter. I would have been up the creek without that local help. I don't want to stop visiting CO, but.....


Traveling with my parents as a child,I dont ever remember a repair shop telling us "we might ba able to get to it in a couple of weeks". Most campgrounds have other reservations and my junk needs to go.

 

Aside from the cab corner the truck looks nice. Underhood is dirty and neglected but this is no surprise.

As you discovered paying someone to fix these trucks will bleed ya dry. The good news is if you have basic mechanical skills (and a good back) you can fix this. This forum can supply all the info and advice, if you can do the work.

Money spent on front end work is all to the good. Ball joints especially!

A pic of the new up pipes would help. Stick your phone back there and try to get a shot of the bellowed portion. Plus pics of the suspension and frame to document the rust situation.

I am concerned about the coolant degas bottle, level seems low and has crap in it. Pics of inside/outside of that would help. Or maybe make me freak out, we'll see.

First mod I will suggest is a 6637 air filter to replace the leaky OEM air box. Not expensive, flows better, and seals up properly. Save a few bucks and skip the cover, use panty hose.

 

Can you even find panty hose anymore......on a serious note, that intake looks odd, but I'm not up to snuff on the E99 stuff...

 

Best advise is to learn how to get your hands dirty working on these trucks, parts themselves are expensive and hired labor doubles or even quadruples that.

Money decipates quick when working with a project.

perfect example is my 95 OBS CCLB paid $500 for it back in 2012. Over the years (and this is all work done by me and cheap labor do to living near a border city to Mexico) I have nearly 13k into it, imagine someone else doing the work? price would double or even triple in a heart beat.

Another example is my wifes 00 f250 cclb, a dump of a truck that was neglected. Lots of new parts, at least 3.5k into it already and going up, and even more once the mill dies and I get it rebuild.

 

I bought my L99 F350 in '03 with only 58k miles on her from a coworker. She now sits at 234k. I have only been stuck on the side of the road one time in 19 years when the fuel pump crapped out. I had a 14k lb 5th wheel I towed for years. I've put a good amount of money in her over the years: front brakes, rebuilt front end, water pump (as part of maintenance), starter and battery wires upgraded, tires and new batteries a few times, new leather on front seats, new stereo, etc... I do all my own work. Nothing catastrophic has failed like the engine or transmission. I'm currently doing the rear brakes and putting new fluid in the rear. This website is gold for information on how and why to do things. Unless your wallet is exceptionally fat I recommend digging in and doing your own work. You'll probably do a better job than most shops and save.