Had the break controller recall completed on my 22 Ford F350 super duty. Problems arose when I hooked my trailer to it. Trailer would not charge while truck was towing it.. Left trailer plugged in overnight killed both batteries on the truck evidently something is reversed in the logic where it draws power off the truck when the engine is not running and does not provide power when the engine is running.. Took it back to dealer asked them to restore to default condition they were unable. Deal contacted Ford tech support. Ford corporate tech support said that the recall reprogram is faulted and they are working on a solution with no ETA meanwhile towing a trailer does not charge the batteries...... total bonehead move by Ford.
Anyone else having this issue?

 

Not long after the recall came out, I saw posted somewhere that Ford put it on hold because they found an issue with certain MY22 trucks and that dealers had been instructed to not perform the upgrades. I have not seen that posted since and can't find it again.
Seems some dealers are either unaware or ignoring and updating anyway.

I am waiting till this is all ironed out since I have not had any trouble with mine.

 

Have had no issues at all since having the recall performed on my 2022 truck.
And, it did fix the trailer braking that had failed on mine.
I don't know why the reprogramming would involve anything to do with the power output to the trailer???

 

When I inquired about the recall at my local dealer I was told there was an issue with the repair and I needed to wait. I waited until the end of May and the dealer said then that the repair was ready. I had the recall performed and I have not had any issues. However I have not left the trailer connected to the truck over night though.

 

I have had a few trailers hooked to mine for a number of overnight stops, never an issue.
Of course I make sure no electrical items are left on in the trailer.

 

Dealer did my 450 yesterday while it was in for first oil change service. Dealer did not refer to any issue with update and have not hooked to rv yet. Did have a day with no brakes driving to Florida, so I am hoping for working rv brakes.

 

I have a 22 XLT and it is not part of the brake controller recall. However, after a few months of having it, one day I hooked my camper up (about the 5th time) and noticed a spark at the hitch. I checked everything and it was fine best I could tell so I continued on. Later when heading out I noticed my brakes didn’t work. I wasn’t going far so I kept going. At the campground I realized the 30A fuse on the camper side of the 7 plug was blown. I changed it and the brakes worked again…

But, on the way home I realized my truck was not charging the campers batteries. Then I checked the fuses on the truck. There are 2 for the 7 pin plug to charge. I didn’t realize this at first, but once I did I realized that one of them was blown. I had to track down a 30A slotted J fuse (the slotted ones are hard to find!), but once I did and changed it, the truck charges like normal.

At this point the trailer brakes are working and the truck is charging… but I’m still nervous about it. I do not understand why it happened to begin with. But at one point my trailer had no brakes and the truck did not charge. It’s baffling since it never happened before with any other vehicle, and now it’s working again. I don’t know if it’s related to the brake controller recall or not, but like I said, my truck didn’t get the recall notice… I still think there’s something that was going on though… maybe it was a one time thing!

 

My 2022 F450 is also not part of the recall for some reason. I have not had any issues with mine and I have towed quite a bit.

 

Do you have a LiFePO4 battery bank? If so, maybe it was trying to feed back to the truck at the coupler?

I have 560 Ah of LiFePO4 and up to 1280 watts of PV. My house LiFePO4 battery bank is completely isolated from the truck. The 7-pin circuit has nothing to do with the house battery bank or the house 12 volt system.

I have a small lead acid battery on the tongue that the 7-pin circuit charges. That battery is connected to its own 170 watt PV panel and controller, so not much charge would flow back through to the truck.

Power isn't supposed to flow back to the truck. There are electronics in the truck to prevent that. But if something is broken in that circuit (a diode?) then who knows what could happen.

 

Make sure your trailer is grounded properly, especially at the tongue ground. A spark at the hitch should never happen.

 

Yes, I do have LiFeP04 batteries, however they were 100%. So no draw from the truck, and unless a diode is broken somewhere, there shouldn’t be any feedback that got through. Also, since it hasn’t blown again since I changed it, it makes me think the diodes are still working.

Also, I checked grounds. Two that I added I pulled back off, cleaned up the contacts and put them back with a fresh coat of dielectric grease.

It’s crazy that it happened all of a sudden, and hasn’t since.

 

Be careful with the dielectric grease. It's an insulator, not a conductor. For protecting between two connections I currently am using NO-OX-ID on my bare copper and bare aluminum. I have a small container of it that will last for decades. But if I were to buy a new conductive paste it would be MG Chemicals 847. It doesn't take much paste, just a very thin layer.

 

While technically what you said is true, there is no reason not to use dielectric grease. Conductive paste in a multi terminal connector could be a disaster for someone that is not very careful or that does not understand what they are doing.

https://www.nyelubricants.com/myth-g...h-conductivity

 

The whole, "Which grease to use" is a topic that can go on and on. I still use dielectric grease in my low amp connectors that are exposed to weather. But for anything with high amps I'm a lot more selective. A bare copper conductor will corrode, so I try to avoid any bare copper if I can. All my copper cable lugs are tinned, the cable sleeve of the lug has no "vent" (aka inspection hole), it's sealed once the crimp is complete and the heat shrink tubing is in place.