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Hey guys,
. After your advice, I went and did brakes on all four wheels. For context, this is a 4 wheel power drum 75 F100 4x4. I reeled the master and each wheel cylinder. Took it for a drive and the brakes suck (ton of brake travel before there is any slowing down) and the Brake Warning Light is on.
. Now, I got fluid out of all 4 bleeder valves, so nothing seems to be blocked off, and the braking is very even, no pulling, so my plan was just to remove the bulb in the dash for the brake warning light. I think what I have to do is expand the self adjusters even more, what do you guys think. I had them where they are lightly scraping the drums, with really no resistance. Please let me know what I should do.
Thank you,
75custom360
Brake warning light ON means you 1. have lost enough fluid and the piston inside the proportional valve have moved. 2. You have to recenter it. Did you "bench" bleed the master cylinder correctly?
Brake warning light ON means you 1. have lost enough fluid and the piston inside the proportional valve have moved. 2. You have to recenter it. Did you "bench" bleed the master cylinder correctly?
Okay, I can try this method. I believe I bled it correctly. I looped the outlets back into the reservoir and pressed the pedal down in slightly farther increments and each time until no air came out.
To bench bleed the MC, you normally you have to take the master cylinder OFF the power brake booster (leave the lid and bail on to vacum lock most of the fluid in. Tae the line off 1 at a time and cap. Then put it in a vice (level) (hence the name bench bleed), then with the MC full, and the lid off, use a #2 Philips screwdriver to push the piston in slowly a number of times and get all the air out. Once you do that a bunch and no see more air, put the lid on with the bail, and put it on the truck. Connect the main brake lines one at at time. Leaving the lid and bail ON will creates a vacuum and keep most of the fluid in when you go to remove the caps. ONE AT A TIME.
When you bleed the brakes did you start at the further point away? Rear passenger, rear dvr, front pass, then front driver last? And make sure you keep the MS FULL the whole time. There is also a valve button/rod that you either push in or pull out depending on the style of valve.
Yes, I did bleed the wheels in that order. I did not mess with the prop valve because I got fluid out of all 4 wheels. I was under the impression that if you don't get fluid out of a set of wheels, then the proportioning valve is non-balanced, cause then you can see what side is blocked off. I can rebleed the master, but then would I also have to rebleed all four wheels?
Yes on the correct sequence to bleed, and that is the way of thinking I use when bleeding brakes. Fluid out of all do not mess with pin. So that is a correct statement. No need to rebleed the master unless you suspect it. But it the brake warning light is on, then the piston is NOT centered. Did it come on during your test drive?
No, the light first came on when I did the rear brakes plus master. I know I should've, but I did not bleed the fronts because the bleeders where rusted in and I wasn't quite sure how to remove the hubs so I could replace the wheel cylinders at the time. After driving it like that for about a week, the brakes got worse and worse until eventually, I hit the pedal, it went to the floor, and the light came on. Then, I had slight brakes literally at the bottom of the pedal. This then prompted me to rebuild the brakes on all four wheels and rebleed everything
Light comes on normally when you have a catastrophic brake line failure and major fluid loss. And or something causes the piston to NOT be centered. Like you have a ton of AIR still in the lines. Quite driving your truck with NO brakes or weak breaks. Period!
Get the front bleeders loose or "break" them off trying. That will in turn make you go get a $12.00 Chilton/Haynes manual (at most parts houses) or even get a set of OEM dealership maint manual from Ebay. Or get them on line somewhere and learn how to take the hub apart, to replace the front wheel cylinders. It's 2wd it a cotter pin and a nut...
Brakes are like steering components.... YOU NEED THEM TO BE 110% IN PROPER WORKING ORDER, before you take out a mini van full of nuns. No in all seriousness fix if before you drive it.
