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I've been searching the forums for this, but haven't found any related threads yet. I seem to recall seeing something about "air conditioning" vs "climate control," but I can't find any related threads now.
I have a 2013 F150 XLT (so, front vents only), and the AC just doesn't get cold, so it doesn't cool the cab. I seem to recall reading that this truck has "climate control" and not "air conditioning," so the fans won't blow like mad -- but in that case I would expect the vent temp to be pretty cold. It's just not, and ambient temperature doesn't seem to matter.
Is this the way it is, or is there something wrong with my truck? I mean, maybe I just need to take it in for an AC service (maybe it has a freon leak?), but I'd rather not spend the money if that won't solve the problem.
While I'm here talking about AC questions ... should I be feeling cold air at my feet, when the damper indicator shows dash vents only? I always get some air at my feet, no matter what the damper is set to. I would have expected ALL the air to be coming to the dash vents in that case.
Get a small thermometer and hang in front of the vent.. You should be able to get 50 degree air out of the vent.. maybe a couple degrees less............ Open the hood and look at the COMPRESSOR pulley / belt.... Pulley should engage and stay engaged for about a minute, then disconnect and SET for 15 seconds, then engage again... etc.... If you are disconnecting too fast or too often, then you may be low on GAS.............If you had a gas bottle with a short hose and GAUGE on it, you could test the pressure and add a little if needed.....or take it to someone to run a quick test.... Truck is 9 years old... It is possible i needs a little recharge.
The AC should freeze you out if set to the lowest setting.
I recently repaired my 2013 f150. Problem was a plugged/broken TXV.
When this happens, the liquid supply to the evaporator is starved and the suction pressure is low causing it to "bounce" off the LP switch. Major reduction in cooling capacity. Also the head pressure was very high, over 300 psi, also not good.
These systems work well and if they aren't, its just a matter of correct diagnosis which can be difficult with a "magical" system like AC
Also, in my experience, the average technician lacks the theoretical understanding to diagnose AC issues. Standard approach is "add more freon".
I encourage you to ask for facts if you do take it to a technician. If they cannot explain it to you in terms you understand and agree with - they don't know what they are doing.
My experience has shown just the opposite of most here, as has many others. My 2001 would freeze you out, my 2010 was marginal at best and my 2013 is dismal. It won't maintain 73 degF in the cab at full blast recirc at 70 mph on a sunny 90 degF day. Its a miserable system and has been since day 1 when I drove it new off the lot. I've had it checked several times and always get told there's nothing wrong with it. By all means, have it checked/recharged but IMNSHO don't expect much out of it.
My experience has shown just the opposite of most here, as has many others. My 2001 would freeze you out, my 2010 was marginal at best and my 2013 is dismal. It won't maintain 73 degF in the cab at full blast recirc at 70 mph on a sunny 90 degF day. Its a miserable system and has been since day 1 when I drove it new off the lot. I've had it checked several times and always get told there's nothing wrong with it. By all means, have it checked/recharged but IMNSHO don't expect much out of it.
That doesn't surprise me. I have discussed with many others and they have the same experience.
The technicians always start by making sure the system is "running" meaning compressor engages, fan blows etc., then they evacuate and replace the refrigerant to be sure its correct amount by weight.
If those steps dont fix/identify the issue, the technician is typically unable to troubleshoot further. And they tell you everything is fine.
Evaluation of pressures, temperatures and behaviors such as compressor cycling, etc is required from there. It takes a real HVAC tech at that point
About 3 weeks ago my 2013 AC was terrible, may have been progressing over time without me realizing it. After steps 1+2 and the rest of the evaluation, it was clear the TXV was not working correctly. $40 part from Rock Auto, 1.5 lbs of 134a and its cold. Low 40s out the vents on a hot day. 😎
Any shop around here would have told me it was fine and charged $125+ for nothing.
My truck falls into this subject quite well. Bought her new in 13 and a/c has been at best, a cool breeze on a 95º day.......I kid, it's not that bad but it's a known issue with this generation of F150's. Yes I'm hvac certified and have been since the mid 90's.
The problem I discovered and have with others involved poking, proding and testing our own systems is it comes down to a software design failure of epic proportion. We were able to boost cooling overall by tricking the bcm into thinking the ac evap sensor wasn't as cold as programmed operation dictated thus allowing a longer clutch on cycle utilizing a resistor value of 1M to 500,000k across the evap sensor connector. Different folks had better or worse at different values but that's the range we found most effective for all parties, some have used a variable Ω pot so they could dial it in to their liking.
The results were immediate and lasting for many people using the resistor and it's only a patch to what really needs a hard fix (design re-write). It does not get the system blowing ice flakes as some may wish but it helps.
To test my theory........
Utilizing Ford's IDS software and my VCMII was able to do this....
1st pic is as purchased new operation.
After triggering compressor cycle on time with IDS I was able to achieve this. Nothing else done, no refrigerant added. No my camera lens isn't dirty, that's actual fog coming out of the vent. I clicked that pic then jumped out of the truck, my fingers were starting to hurt.
My '14 AC feels fine at city speeds, but on the freeway, it's does not feel as cold as city speed. I thought it was just me at first. Then I paid attention to when it felt cooler. Going along the freeway, then to an off ramp, when I slowed for the ramp the air felt cooler.
I have not put a temp gauge to a vent yet. Need to do that.
Is this normal for my '14, or maybe something wrong?
My '14 AC feels fine at city speeds, but on the freeway, it's does not feel as cold as city speed. I thought it was just me at first. Then I paid attention to when it felt cooler. Going along the freeway, then to an off ramp, when I slowed for the ramp the air felt cooler.
I have not put a temp gauge to a vent yet. Need to do that.
Is this normal for my '14, or maybe something wrong?
Thank you,
Tom
Also make sure your evap and condenser are clean. There are products to do it.
Well, it just so happens that I had an HVAC serviceman to the house today, so I borrowed his thermometer... plain as day my system is pumping out 55º air from at least the left 3 vents (didn't check passenger side, but I'm sure they're all the same anyway) ... with "max AC" on and the driver's door open on a 90º sunny day.
My '14 AC feels fine at city speeds, but on the freeway, it's does not feel as cold as city speed. I thought it was just me at first. Then I paid attention to when it felt cooler. Going along the freeway, then to an off ramp, when I slowed for the ramp the air felt cooler.
I have not put a temp gauge to a vent yet. Need to do that.
Is this normal for my '14, or maybe something wrong?
Thank you,
Tom
Originally Posted by eagle243
Well, it just so happens that I had an HVAC serviceman to the house today, so I borrowed his thermometer... plain as day my system is pumping out 55º air from at least the left 3 vents (didn't check passenger side, but I'm sure they're all the same anyway) ... with "max AC" on and the driver's door open on a 90º sunny day.
Next step then is to put a manifold on it and diagnose. How is the cycling frequency? On a humid summer day, it usually should always be on.
Next step then is to put a manifold on it and diagnose. How is the cycling frequency? On a humid summer day, it usually should always be on.
Agreed. Let's see those pressures. Need pressure and compressor cycling behavior at 1800-2200 rpm as well.
It seems likely you are hitting the low pressure switch and cycling the compressor at road speeds and why you notice the difference. Lots of potential causes for this. Lots of great input from the folks on this discussion!
yes.... if your loosing cooling at highway speed, think of it this way.. The MOTOR is running a faster RPM and therefore the compressor is turning faster and SUCKING more gas thru it... That causes the suction pressure to drop, and probably go BELOW the LOW PSI switch setting and therefor the clutch cuts out...... Monitoring the pressure in the driveway while holding RPM in the 1800- 2000 rpm range would show this.... You might just need a little BOOST of more gas.
So it appears that my issue is not normal. As best as I can remember, it has been this way since new.
I will now have to look into how to and whats needed to find out what is wrong. Maybe a RT*M moment! Maybe as simple as a recharge? It does have something that looks like salt buildup/ corrosion as the base of the tire valve looking pieces in the hard lines. Maybe it's had a small leak all these years?