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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

LED headlights installed

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Old Aug 8, 2022 | 08:33 AM
  #46  
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From: Hillsborough NJ
Originally Posted by 52 USCG Panel
If our trucks had to be perfect and every system optimal, we wouldn't be driving them. My lights are weak, so I avoid driving at night. My suspension, brakes, and steering are stock, so I drive slower. My paint and body work aren't perfect, but people still appreciate seeing it.

Jim
My thoughts exactly. I went to a cars and coffee yesterday, many of the vehicles were so perfect I’d be afraid to drive them, like what if a stone gets kicked up and scratches it. The cars / trucks I was drawn to were the ones like ours, close to original, clean, but imperfect, like the 71 Buick with original paint, or the 66 mustang repainted years ago, or the Jeep in patina, the 36 Ford pickup, repainted but with several dents and some grease under the hoods.

My goal is to be able to drive it daily, so wipers, headlights, etc all need to work.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2022 | 08:55 AM
  #47  
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From: Deerbrook, WI
Good Morning Bob. How are you liking your halogen headlights? I have some, and tried them, but decided if anything they weren't as bright as the regular bulbs. A possible reason is poor grounding, but nothing I tried to improve the grounds seemed to help.

Jim
 
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Old Aug 8, 2022 | 10:24 AM
  #48  
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From: Hillsborough NJ
Originally Posted by 52 USCG Panel
Good Morning Bob. How are you liking your halogen headlights? I have some, and tried them, but decided if anything they weren't as bright as the regular bulbs. A possible reason is poor grounding, but nothing I tried to improve the grounds seemed to help.

Jim
They’re much brighter and whiter than the stock bulbs, but not as bright and white as the LEDs. For the few times I’ll be driving at night I’m sure they’ll be fine.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2022 | 10:55 AM
  #49  
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From: Thompsons Station, TN
Led lights anti flicker

Just found this on CJ Pony Parts.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/headligh...-led-/p/HLAFM/
 
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Old Aug 13, 2022 | 05:00 PM
  #50  
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From: Hillsborough NJ
Originally Posted by Dturk
Thx, I appreciate your input, but after analyzing, LED flicker isn’t my issue. I already installed an anti flicker resistor, it made no difference.

The issue I’m having, after troubleshooting, is that the bright circuit flashes on and off randomly, I believe because of the poor quality of the regulator circuit on the bulb.

I’ve learned that these bulbs don’t actually have low and high beams. On low beam 1/2 of the LEDs light up, on high, the other 1/2 are added. Using very dark sunglasses, I’ve been able to see that when switching from high to low, the second 1/2 of the LEDs flash on and off.

Simply put, these LEDs are defective and the vendor won’t respond to my emails, so I simply threw away the money.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2022 | 06:20 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Bob Ingram
Thx, I appreciate your input, but after analyzing, LED flicker isn’t my issue. I already installed an anti flicker resistor, it made no difference.

The issue I’m having, after troubleshooting, is that the bright circuit flashes on and off randomly, I believe because of the poor quality of the regulator circuit on the bulb.

I’ve learned that these bulbs don’t actually have low and high beams. On low beam 1/2 of the LEDs light up, on high, the other 1/2 are added. Using very dark sunglasses, I’ve been able to see that when switching from high to low, the second 1/2 of the LEDs flash on and off.

Simply put, these LEDs are defective and the vendor won’t respond to my emails, so I simply threw away the money.
I just thought of something, what kind of switch is your high beam switch , like, is it a factory high beam(I have no idea when cars got high beams) or is it something you put in? The reason I ask is because LEDs are sensitive to bad circuit hygeine and something like a switch thats mechanically allowing current through from, say, vibrations, or doesnt cleanly cut off the high beams when in low beam selection from either construction or defect etc.. would never light up a halogen, but the LED needs far less for it to light up. If its only passing a bit of current, it can be enough to notice as youre driving let alone visually from outside of your cab.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2022 | 08:30 AM
  #52  
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From: Hillsborough NJ
Originally Posted by AuroraGirl
I just thought of something, what kind of switch is your high beam switch , like, is it a factory high beam(I have no idea when cars got high beams) or is it something you put in? The reason I ask is because LEDs are sensitive to bad circuit hygeine and something like a switch thats mechanically allowing current through from, say, vibrations, or doesnt cleanly cut off the high beams when in low beam selection from either construction or defect etc.. would never light up a halogen, but the LED needs far less for it to light up. If its only passing a bit of current, it can be enough to notice as youre driving let alone visually from outside of your cab.
Interesting thought. I’m using the stock switch to trigger relays so the actual current flows through the relays, not the switch. If the relays are passing current while they’re off this is a possibility. I’ll check them.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2022 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Ingram
Interesting thought. I’m using the stock switch to trigger relays so the actual current flows through the relays, not the switch. If the relays are passing current while they’re off this is a possibility. I’ll check them.
Im not all that knowledgeable with electronics to know if this is something do-able or smart but are you able to put any kind of resistor between the relay and the light? I dont know what kind of current, and how much being its on 6 volt, but an LED being activated by less than intended electricity can often be made to stay off if there is some resistance in the wiring added, because the LEDs need so little , a nice clean straight shot from a relay if that said relay lets anything past it could light it quite a bit. id say a good way to know whether this all happens is if the flashing is at full brightness. flicker from low current can make the brightness any odd amount relative to the normal brightness esp when it comes to how many chips light up vs the PWM effect on a single chip.
An "easy" way to check this i guess could be to have a halogen on one side and LED on another, I assume they feed from the same relay.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2022 | 09:12 AM
  #54  
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From: Hillsborough NJ
Originally Posted by AuroraGirl
Im not all that knowledgeable with electronics to know if this is something do-able or smart but are you able to put any kind of resistor between the relay and the light? I dont know what kind of current, and how much being its on 6 volt, but an LED being activated by less than intended electricity can often be made to stay off if there is some resistance in the wiring added, because the LEDs need so little , a nice clean straight shot from a relay if that said relay lets anything past it could light it quite a bit. id say a good way to know whether this all happens is if the flashing is at full brightness. flicker from low current can make the brightness any odd amount relative to the normal brightness esp when it comes to how many chips light up vs the PWM effect on a single chip.
An "easy" way to check this i guess could be to have a halogen on one side and LED on another, I assume they feed from the same relay.
I am knowledgeable with electronics, although my degree faded and yellow by now.

Relays can bounce. They are mechanical switches activated by electro magnets. So if the relay is bouncing, LEDs can respond in milliseconds where halogens take longer. So if the relay is bouncing, the LEDs will show it, but the halogens won’t.

Oh, and I did try a resistor, it didn’t help. Good thought and thx again.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2022 | 09:38 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Bob Ingram
I am knowledgeable with electronics, although my degree faded and yellow by now.

Relays can bounce. They are mechanical switches activated by electro magnets. So if the relay is bouncing, LEDs can respond in milliseconds where halogens take longer. So if the relay is bouncing, the LEDs will show it, but the halogens won’t.

Oh, and I did try a resistor, it didn’t help. Good thought and thx again.
Oh thats cool to know, thanks. May have to check out a relay on my dads f350.. the other day had some weird behavior from his external lighting while I helped him troubleshoot the rigged wiring lol
 
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Old Aug 16, 2022 | 06:48 PM
  #56  
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It's really not hard to use relays to get the LED lights to work properly. A lot of talk about flickering, but nobody has mentioned putting a scope on to check whether it's a voltage supply issue, or an LED problem. If anyone wants to do some good testing in the NJ area, let me know. I have everything needed to test and determine a root cause of the issues. I'm out of work on light duty for another 10 days, so I have a lot of free time, right now. I don't have a 6V vehicle for testing, but I have the equipment to get it figured out.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2022 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by SRGN
It's really not hard to use relays to get the LED lights to work properly. A lot of talk about flickering, but nobody has mentioned putting a scope on to check whether it's a voltage supply issue, or an LED problem. If anyone wants to do some good testing in the NJ area, let me know. I have everything needed to test and determine a root cause of the issues. I'm out of work on light duty for another 10 days, so I have a lot of free time, right now. I don't have a 6V vehicle for testing, but I have the equipment to get it figured out.
well I mean, I dont own a oscilliscope, so I would never suggest to someone to just grab theirs LOL
 
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Old Aug 17, 2022 | 04:40 PM
  #58  
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From: Hillsborough NJ
Originally Posted by SRGN
It's really not hard to use relays to get the LED lights to work properly. A lot of talk about flickering, but nobody has mentioned putting a scope on to check whether it's a voltage supply issue, or an LED problem. If anyone wants to do some good testing in the NJ area, let me know. I have everything needed to test and determine a root cause of the issues. I'm out of work on light duty for another 10 days, so I have a lot of free time, right now. I don't have a 6V vehicle for testing, but I have the equipment to get it figured out.
Actually that was on my list until I realized that the supply is internal. These bulbs will run on AC or DC anywhere from 5 to 30V. That only tells me one thing, the rectifier and regulator are in the bulb. I’m tempted to take one of the bulbs apart as a sacrificial lamb, but right now, I’m just enjoying using Bessie as my daily driver, she’s just so much fun to drive! My poor Ram is getting lonely.
 
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