I contacted customer service, yes I should be using a voltage stabilizer. It’s a whopping $2.44 each.

FYI, these bulbs will function at 5v to 30v, positive or negative ground. The brightness doesn’t change with voltage.

 

Hey Bob just seeing if you had an update after the voltage stabilizers. Drive mine about 1 night a week and certainly interested in this upgrade.
thanks,

 

No response from customer service, and no change after installing the stabilizing resistors.

It’s not a consistent flicker, it’s like a loose connection flickering from time to time. All connections tested. A it frustrating.

 

OK bob one last question...are you running 6 or 12 volt?

 

my first post listed the voltages. 6v system

 

Hi Bob!

I am thinking your voltage regulator might be causing this even though it IS working properly.
As it is controlling the charging current of the battery there are times the voltage regulator contacts are vibrating by opening and shuting 50+ times per second. There is almost a constant see-saw battle that is going on, between the full charged battery voltage and the charging current of the battery causing the contacts to slightly spark and buzz. The more load on the ignition voltage, the more this could happen. I could be wrong but I am thinking this will put noise on your 6 volt power supply. Some of it the battery filters out but some is still there. The LEDs are fast enough to detect it thus the flashing. How to get rid of it? I would try to find some condensors/capacitors to put across the headlight circuit. Even those radio supression style ones across your voltage regulator could help if you don't have those already. Back in the day they used them across anything that could create noise in a radio such as your voltage regulator, fuel level, oil pressue sender, etc. Just some thoughts anyway.

 

Thx, but I don’t think that’s it. I understand the electrical noise issue you’re describing, I am in fact, an electrical engineer although my degree is yellow and faded, just like my memory of those classes. I put a load resistor across the low beam, and tried a capacitor across it as well, no change.

In fact, I believe what’s happening is the bulb is switching between low and high beams, possibly through an issue in the bulb’s circuit itself. These bulbs will actually run on AC or DC of either polarity, which tells me they’re are internally rectified. My suspicion is that there is an intermittent short on the regulator board.

Last night my wife and I went out to a friend’s house. As we got ready to leave I switched in the lights without starting the the engine, the driver’s side headlight started flashing low to high. The passenger side was solid. On high beam it doesn’t flash. If it was a problem in the truck’s regulator, it would only happen if the truck was running and generator sending power to the regulator.

Since customer service hasn’t responded, I decided to buy another bulb. Unfortunately I can’t locate another vendor to buy a 6v led headlight from, so I guess I’ll just live with it, there’s nothing like good customer service, and this company is nothing like good customer service.

I’ll report back when I get the new bulb.

 

I recently saw a Stacey David video on the new Holley RetroBright classic LED headlights. They replace the standard 7 inch sealed beam bulb, and look like the classic sealed beam bulb. They come in two colors of white light.

Link at Holley here: https://www.holley.com/products/elec.../parts/LFRB135

Nice looking, DOT approved but expensive at $199.99 each, so $400 for two.

 

Another one of my silly theories blown up.! But I am glad you nailed down the problem Bob!

 

Looks good but I'll wait until they come down in price. $400 is a lot of money for headlights on a truck I drive much at night.

And what's with the 3 prong house cord for?

 

Lets not get overconfident now, I’m theorizing just like you are. We could both be wrong.

 

Look again, that’s not a house cord.

Plus…no way I’m paying $400 for headlights. Those LEDs cost pennies to manufacture. That’s price gouging at its worst.

 

That is the standard H-4 headlight connector. You are not just paying for the LED bulb, you are paying for the reflector housing and glass lens on the front. It has a replaceable LED. For most LED headlights out there, the housing is the most expensive part.

 

I see that now! On my phone I saw a 2 blade plug with a ground prong. So that is the same 3 plugs we see on the back of a stock headlight?

 

Well...

I got the new bulbs, put one in the drivers side because that was the one flashing, the new bulb does the same thing. After driving around for awhile I noticed that what's happening is when I switch from high to low, it flickers between high and low for a few seconds, then settles and flickers less. One day soon I'm going to spend some quality time with the wiring, perhaps I have a bad connection, ground, relay, or something. More fun with my truck. But at least I can drive at night without killing my battery.