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Bob, I've been following your progress on this, as I've been thinking along the same thing for my '52. Mine is still 6v also. Just a thought, but I looked for a -6v- h4 halogen bulb that might help to diagnose whats going wrong. h4 bulbs are usually cheap and easy to find, but in 6v ? Evidently not something every chain parts store sells. Only in European motorcycles and some Porsche and VW from the '60's.. Did find some online tho. Maybe try a 12v off the shelf bulb to see if its a wiring or bulb or charging system problem? Good luck I hope you figure it out, I'll be watching !
Bob, I've been following your progress on this, as I've been thinking along the same thing for my '52. Mine is still 6v also. Just a thought, but I looked for a -6v- h4 halogen bulb that might help to diagnose whats going wrong. h4 bulbs are usually cheap and easy to find, but in 6v ? Evidently not something every chain parts store sells. Only in European motorcycles and some Porsche and VW from the '60's.. Did find some online tho. Maybe try a 12v off the shelf bulb to see if its a wiring or bulb or charging system problem? Good luck I hope you figure it out, I'll be watching !
LMC truck has 6v halogen bulbs, and I have a pair. My issue with them is the current draw. You make a good point on using them for troubleshooting.
We’re having a heat wave here in NJ right now. It’s already almost 100 and the sun is bearing down, even shade trees don’t help. I’ll attack this after this wave passes.
I swapped the headlights side to side. Now what I’m seeing is that they’re both stuck on bright. Occasionally one of them will switch to low.
My understanding is that on low, 1/2 of the LEDs are lit, high lights the rest. My theory is the the poor quality PCB is shorting so that all LEDs are in the circuit most of the time, and where they’re not, they’re intermittently making the connection.
Now if I could find an LED bulb for 6v + ground anywhere else, I’d buy them, but I’m unable to locate another vendor. I might just need to go back to halogen.
Heat seems to be a thing with these LED's... Several styles I've seen have fans? fins? Wattage numbers all over the place. I googled " h4 9003 led 6 volt "
Heat seems to be a thing with these LED's... Several styles I've seen have fans? fins? Wattage numbers all over the place. I googled " h4 9003 led 6 volt "
I verified the part number. According to the vendor these are good for anywhere from 5 to 30V positive or negative ground.
I would just make yourselves have an easier time with the concept and either wire in soemthign that can allow it to be negative ground,, not sure how.. Or convert your vehicle to 12 volt anyway. Otherwise the LED thing is gonna be taunting you
You could go that route though. It would involve a little rewiring of your headights circuit. Basically you would swap the polarties of the headlight system. You would end up feeding the headlights common terminal negative battery power from the headlight switch and the positive (or in your case ) ground side would be fed from your dimmer switch which common has now been connected to ground. In this case when the headlights are on you are switching between grounds for your high or low beams.
That is the standard H-4 headlight connector. You are not just paying for the LED bulb, you are paying for the reflector housing and glass lens on the front. It has a replaceable LED. For most LED headlights out there, the housing is the most expensive part.
I would just make yourselves have an easier time with the concept and either wire in soemthign that can allow it to be negative ground,, not sure how.. Or convert your vehicle to 12 volt anyway. Otherwise the LED thing is gonna be taunting you
I made the decision a long time ago to stick with 6v positive ground.
Originally Posted by hooler1
You could go that route though. It would involve a little rewiring of your headights circuit. Basically you would swap the polarties of the headlight system. You would end up feeding the headlights common terminal negative battery power from the headlight switch and the positive (or in your case ) ground side would be fed from your dimmer switch which common has now been connected to ground. In this case when the headlights are on you are switching between grounds for your high or low beams.
I’ve thought about that, but what’s to say the negative ground LEDs will be any better.
I edited the first post and title, but it doesn’t show the change in title.
The LEDs are out, halogen back in. My charging system is now able to handle the current and I just don’t want to waste more time on this.
I’m driving my truck almost everyday and enjoying every minute of it. I drove about 50 miles round trip to a cars and coffee this morning. The event was ok, some cool vehicles, but the drive through NJ woodlands and farms was beautiful.
If our trucks had to be perfect and every system optimal, we wouldn't be driving them. My lights are weak, so I avoid driving at night. My suspension, brakes, and steering are stock, so I drive slower. My paint and body work aren't perfect, but people still appreciate seeing it.