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My original build was with solenoids and bear claw latches... works fine (other than a weak solenoid that is being replaced. Now I'm installing a manual stock handle in addition to the solenoid release. I got the handle assembly mounted fine and the original latch bar fits very close to the bear claw latch lever...
BUT the latch only needs 3/16" or travel to release... My worry is that my wife might bump the handle and open the door while moving... looking for a solution if anyone has had manual releases with the bear claws
The fix that comes to my mind would be to alter the geometry on the linkage, lengthening the lever on the latch so it takes more movement of the handle before tripping.
The fix that comes to my mind would be to alter the geometry on the linkage, lengthening the lever on the latch so it takes more movement of the handle before tripping.
That's how I've seen all lock buttons/levers work. It takes very little turn to do the locking/unlocking so the travel comes from the geometry and slop in the linkage. I will be doing something similar but not got to it yet. There are not many photos of what people have done. Likely because its hard to get a view of it in side the door carcass. So I'm looking forward to seeing John do a few pages on it. Some exploded views would be handy
Well, that fiasco is done... got my new solenoids in and that are seriously stronger that my first set... they were advertised as 100#... didn't quite have a way to verify but I couldn't hold them back.. I attached a cable to the piston and pulled against it as I actuated the solenoid and I could not stall it. Comparison pic...
the old smaller solenoids operated with a little "buzz" and I was never really happy with them... (that comes from inexperienced builders not knowing what to buy and cheaping out). The new ones when actuated make a very loud "clunk" and a hard pull to pull the latch lever. Much more better.... So first
I removed door upholstery panel and inspection cover then the old solenoid and linkage to the latch..I also had to disconnect all the window "stuff" motor, track and window to get enough room to get my fat hands into the space to work. I just dropped it down inside the door The inside handle and latch rod worked out fine for fit and with a little fabricating and a spring... a little drilling I got the latch working properly with the inner handle. Next came the solenoid. Of course the mounting bracket was totally different and four new holes were required which meant removing the lower carpeted part of the door cover...Got it mounted up with minimal blood loss... that working in the bottom corner of the door is fun... small and blind work. With first install I used 1/8" rod arranged around window mounting... this time I opted for the cable that came with the solenoids and it was much easier to work with... although the cable was 1/16" cable and the hole in the piston was 5/64s. I drilled the piston hole a little larger to get the cable to pull through easily. I attached the solenoid cable to the lower latch hole and the inner handle to the upper... I tested it about 78 times and both work properly... now... just put all the window stuff back and adjust it then replace the upholstery...and move to drivers side...only addition will be the hidden pull cable to attach to open the door in case of dead battery.
didn't change latch arm length...but drilled a series of holes along bottom edge about 1/4" apart
used a spring to connect the latch arm to the latch lever at the top hole...using the holes
I adjusted it using the holes so the handle wouldn't pull the latch until the handle was lifted about 1"
the lower hole is used for the solenoid cable...so there are two actuators...
I am going to update the bearclaw latch article soon
That's how I've seen all lock buttons/levers work. It takes very little turn to do the locking/unlocking so the travel comes from the geometry and slop in the linkage. I will be doing something similar but not got to it yet. There are not many photos of what people have done. Likely because its hard to get a view of it in side the door carcass. So I'm looking forward to seeing John do a few pages on it. Some exploded views would be handy
Cheers John. That will help a lot of people. It's just surprising that the manufacturer doesn't offer a solution to it. Because the absence of it made me consider staying with the stock mechanism.
One thing I found surprising about your guide was this bit I chose to mount the mounting plate on the inside of the door so the cuts will be a little deeper
I thought this would mean you would need to lengthen the door striker post? Because I know some people suffer from that even when they fit it on the outside and more so when they are fitted flush like the way Charlie (I think) does it.
05-28-2022, 02:58 PM
. Did you extend the lever in the linkage to give you more travel?
