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Sorry if I'm not posting this in the correct location.
I have 2000 7.3 over the winter it started running poorly. It would start up, but after a few minutes of driving, it would lose power and want to die out, when I give it the gas it feels like it's loading up sometimes even stalling. but will restart and get me home. The weird thing is there is no engine light I replaced the fuel filter last year around this time. so I believe that shouldn't be the issue, I heard the Cam pos sensor could be causing it so I replaced it and it didn't help. then the truck started running fine for a few days with no prob now the weather is warming up in New England now, Yesterday it happened again but I noticed that the temp gauge was reading cold even though I was driving for about 10 minutes. I'm thinking now that the gauge is making the computer think it's cold making the engine do wonky things. Can anyone try to steer me in the right direction?
The 7.3 doesn't use coolant temp, it uses oil temp for running. What's the oil level like? Is the tinnerman nut on the back of the IPR? And what is your fuel level like? Have you modified the fuel pickup inside the fuel tank yet? Also, you could gently blow some air back from the fuel pump towards the fuel tank to clean any debris that might be stuck on the fuel intake. Also, check all your engine harness connections and make sure they're tight and you can check the engine harness where it rides on the valve cover on the driver's side. They can rub though and short out, causing intermittent problems. You can do those in no particular order but the engine harness is probably the easiest to check.
I will also add this.. No light does not mean no codes.
Look up here 7.3 No Start and use the flow checks.
Get FORScan or FORScan Lite and the adapter they recommend. Pull all the codes and save them, clear all codes, then pull them again.
You likely have codes.
Check all cables and harnesses. Start with the primary battery feeds and grounds, not just are they there, move them (they should not be loose), check the grounds on the frond bottom of th engine block, how do they look. Check all plugs and the cables back up into the looms for damage.
Pull your big plug on the driver side valve cover, look under the cable bundle for scrapes and wear marks. When you re-assemble the 42 pin block snug is good or you will break it.
Check the UVCH on both side on the outside top of the valve covers for burnt indications as well as security of connection.
How about the in tank mods(Hutch/harpoon), any idea if they've been done? Plugged filter screens could explain your symptoms and wouldn't throw a code, since the PCM has no way of monitoring fuel system. If the other suggestions don't prove fruitful you can try disconnecting the fuel line behind the pump and blow a few bursts of shop air back towards the tank. If the screens are plugged that will usually clear them temporarily.
How about the in tank mods(Hutch/harpoon), any idea if they've been done? Plugged filter screens could explain your symptoms and wouldn't throw a code, since the PCM has no way of monitoring fuel system. If the other suggestions don't prove fruitful you can try disconnecting the fuel line behind the pump and blow a few bursts of shop air back towards the tank. If the screens are plugged that will usually clear them temporarily.
Don't forget to remove the fuel tank cap before you do this.
When you get Forscan hooked up and can read PIDs don't worry if the coolant temp is wacky. On AT trucks the PCM uses oil temp in the fuel calculations. OTOH the PCM on MT trucks does use coolant temp. On both the dash gauge is a traditional coolant sensor that does not report to the PCM.
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