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Have new F350 xlt with the blis system. Saw some posts about some of this but thought I'd start fresh. Took box off and put an aluminum flatbed that have had on earlier pickups, last being a 2013. Wired lights and a seven pin round connector to the rv connector as we have done before, used the proximity sensors and the camera but of course the blis sensors are disconnected, also battery was disconnected when doing this work. i know that businesses that install flatbeds can disable the blis but won't for outside work. Ford won't which I understand even though they were kind enough to say there is aftermarket means available. If that was my only problem things would be good. Took to the road today, so far the airbag light is on, tire pressure fault, dash radio and climate controls don't work, steering wheel radio works, passenger window doesn't work. Bad enough but the heat is on and it's 80 degrees. Both nearby dealers are out 1 to 3 weeks. Did have it scanned today and the worst culprit seems to be no communication with the "front controls interface module A" ACM module. Probably going to hook up the sensors again just to see if they correct any of the long list of codes. Obviously technology has gotten ahead of me but just wondering if anyone had any ideas. Suppose cab and chasis would have solved at least some of this but it has worked so well to stick the like new box on when we're done. Have appointment in a week but a lot of sweating in between.
The modules that control all of those items are likely all daisy chained on the same Controlled Area Network. Most likely J1939. If one of the modules on the network is spewing out erroneous data it can cause all of the other modules on the network to go haywire as well. I would suggest plugging those BLIS sensors back in and see what happens. I bet the BLIS control module is currently spitting out bad data on the network (because the sensors are unplugged) and it is causing all of the issues you describe.
I went through a very similar issue with a 2014 Grand Cherokee that had a bad wheel speed sensor. Everything went haywire. Dash quit working, windows stuck down, throttle quit working, brake lights flickered on and off rapidly.
Thank God auto manufacturers don’t make airplanes. A burnt out reading light would take down a 747….. ☝️😉
The modules that control all of those items are likely all daisy chained on the same Controlled Area Network. Most likely J1939. If one of the modules on the network is spewing out erroneous data it can cause all of the other modules on the network to go haywire as well. I would suggest plugging those BLIS sensors back in and see what happens. I bet the BLIS control module is currently spitting out bad data on the network (because the sensors are unplugged) and it is causing all of the issues you describe.
I went through a very similar issue with a 2014 Grand Cherokee that had a bad wheel speed sensor. Everything went haywire. Dash quit working, windows stuck down, throttle quit working, brake lights flickered on and off rapidly.
Thank God auto manufacturers don’t make airplanes. A burnt out reading light would take down a 747….. ☝️😉
wow. so gone are the days where the worst thing that happens with a faulty wheel speed sensor is no traction control and no 4x4? lol
> Suppose cab and chasis would have solved at least some of this
That's what I've read, but haven't verified yet. You are correct though, that you ought to be able to swap out the pickup box without setting off a bunch of (what should be) unrelated alarms.
You are absolutely right! Thought we might have screwed something up so hooked everything up again and everything works again so now have to figure out a way to bypass or something
I have seen these issues come up a lot, and I wonder if there is a terminating resistor in the harness at the rear of the truck that people are inadvertantly disconnecting. CAN networks have resistors at either end of the network, sometimes they are in a module but they can be just a 2 wire plug that looks like an unused pigtail coming off the end of a harness. They are very important for proper data transmission, loose one and you can have problems all over. I would think that disconnecting a BLIS sensor would only cause problems with the Blind Spot system. Just a thought...
We did hook up all the bulb sockets, removed the bulbs, sealed in plastic and tucked everything away. Shut off the BLIS so now everything works good. Probably going to have to put up with hitting the OK button twice each time starting to get rid of the BLIS warning unless someone has a better idea