When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My problems started with power door locks not working. I can live with that. Then the windows stopped working and I replaced the switch unit. Problem continued so I started to dig. Then I found out that with the door all the way open the windows would work. I figured there was an intermittent open in the accordion boot. After removing the door panel to investigate, I noticed the courtesy light came on whenever I tried to operate the windows from the drivers door.. except when the door was open and the windows were actually going up or down. (video attached)
I was wondering at this point if I should try to replace the entire wiring harness? My local dealership parts department wasn’t much help due to the vintage of my Exc and Napa suggested trying Pick-and-Pull but I’d rather not replace a 20 year old wiring harness with a 20 year old wiring harness. Anyone know of a source for them? My Google-foo didn’t turn up much besides used stuff out of wreckers.
I would pull your old harness out (you will have to do this anyway if you found a good used one) and then unwrap it and look for the damage and repair it yourself. Should last another 20 years. You can get all the individual wires opened up out of the harness wrap, and then take your fingers and pinch the wire and slide down the wires tightly and see if you can feel where they are broken inside. Usually the wire will stretch where the copper is broken.
Even if you could find a harness, it is part of the main interior harness assembly and would probably run you a couple thousand dollars and about 2 weeks of your spare time to do it.
Even if you could find a harness, it is part of the main interior harness assembly and would probably run you a couple thousand dollars and about 2 weeks of your spare time to do it.
Actually the door harness itself ends at one or two connectors just inside the A-pillar lower panel, near the e-brake pedal/release. It would be relatively easy to replace once the interior door panel is removed. If its to be dissected on a bench looking for breaks or other damage that would be best. My guess is the possible damage is inside the rubber boot from the door shell to the A-pillar hinge surface.
Actually the door harness itself ends at one or two connectors just inside the A-pillar lower panel, near the e-brake pedal/release. It would be relatively easy to replace once the interior door panel is removed. If its to be dissected on a bench looking for breaks or other damage that would be best. My guess is the possible damage is inside the rubber boot from the door shell to the A-pillar hinge surface.
Great, very fortunate then that it separates there. I would then follow your advice, remove it all and repair as necessary.
Actually the door harness itself ends at one or two connectors just inside the A-pillar lower panel, near the e-brake pedal/release. It would be relatively easy to replace once the interior door panel is removed. If its to be dissected on a bench looking for breaks or other damage that would be best. My guess is the possible damage is inside the rubber boot from the door shell to the A-pillar hinge surface.
Thanks! That's kind of where I figured the problem was since the windows work when the door is opened. I'm an electrician by trade so it's in my ballpark.. and hoping to retire soon, I'll have time to hunt down all the gremlins!
Thanks! That's kind of where I figured the problem was since the windows work when the door is opened. I'm an electrician by trade so it's in my ballpark.. and hoping to retire soon, I'll have time to hunt down all the gremlins!
As you know any conductor that is flexed repeated, even the multi-strand stuff will eventually break someone along its length. While you're looking for a break don't forget to carefully check the connector end terminals which can can be the source of issues as well.
My bet is this problem is in the wiring length near the space between the door shell and body. I would strongly suggest an EVTM or "wiring diagrams book" published by Ford for your vehicle. They're not cheap but are quite invaluable for this sort of work. Here's the best deal I could find: 2002 Excursion EVTM Be advised these then to be very year specific.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.