'98 Expy drivers door harness issues...
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'98 Expy drivers door harness issues...
Hi, I have a 98 Expy, XLT (5.4,4X4) with 185K, I don't use it a lot since I am a motorcycle rider most of the time (plus high fuel costs!).
I have had issues with pwr windows on and off for several years, and I think I've diagnosed it to the wiring harness, maybe around the boot between the door front edge and chassis harness exit location since operation right now only works with drivers door completely open, where I guess there is pinched wire(s), that only has continuity at full stretched position.
At one time operation was sporadic with door closed but seemed to work less frequently with time. I also had both drivers side door glass separate from regulator channel due to parking outside in the northern Ca. heat all the time and need to get the best adhesive and repair them.
Has anyone else experienced the same problem that could share some repair tips or point me to a write up that may have been done?
Thanks in advance!
Mitch
I have had issues with pwr windows on and off for several years, and I think I've diagnosed it to the wiring harness, maybe around the boot between the door front edge and chassis harness exit location since operation right now only works with drivers door completely open, where I guess there is pinched wire(s), that only has continuity at full stretched position.
At one time operation was sporadic with door closed but seemed to work less frequently with time. I also had both drivers side door glass separate from regulator channel due to parking outside in the northern Ca. heat all the time and need to get the best adhesive and repair them.
Has anyone else experienced the same problem that could share some repair tips or point me to a write up that may have been done?
Thanks in advance!
Mitch
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Yes it could be a pinched wire there, or it could be a loss of ground to the door. With the door opened there might be enough pressure on the hinges to complete the ground path...just a thought.
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Thank you, I'll look for a ground terminal inside door (I don't have very good documentation for the wiring (Haynes), is there one in the door or is it inside kick panel?).
One other related issue I had not too long ago was the power door locks went into a mode where they continually cycled - lock-unlock-lock, etc.
until the battery drained, which I suppose supports both of the theory's.
I expect I'll pull the door speaker out today and see how much visibility there is in there...
Much appreciated!
Mitch
One other related issue I had not too long ago was the power door locks went into a mode where they continually cycled - lock-unlock-lock, etc.
until the battery drained, which I suppose supports both of the theory's.
I expect I'll pull the door speaker out today and see how much visibility there is in there...
Much appreciated!
Mitch
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Update:
I grounded the door itself and no change to window operation. While doing this I was thinking to myself that I began having door lock trouble recently, and at one point the system was toggling between lock and unlock repeatedly. The next time that happened I was unaware of the condition and the battery went dead. Since the pwr lock wiring travels thru the same harness as the pwr window wiring, thru the door boot, I figured this was likely another symptom supporting the case for shorted wires in the harness and unplugged the lock connector from the door switch. Note, while testing the windows this time they failed to work at all, until I reached inside the drivers door and grabbed the harness, and when I twisted it, the windows worked well.
I also plugged door lock connector back in and all doors locked except passenger side front, so I gather there is an issue there - Actuator likely?
Would this more or less confirm my original guess of the wires in the door boot being pinched?, and if so does anyone have experience with that repair?
Mitch
I grounded the door itself and no change to window operation. While doing this I was thinking to myself that I began having door lock trouble recently, and at one point the system was toggling between lock and unlock repeatedly. The next time that happened I was unaware of the condition and the battery went dead. Since the pwr lock wiring travels thru the same harness as the pwr window wiring, thru the door boot, I figured this was likely another symptom supporting the case for shorted wires in the harness and unplugged the lock connector from the door switch. Note, while testing the windows this time they failed to work at all, until I reached inside the drivers door and grabbed the harness, and when I twisted it, the windows worked well.
I also plugged door lock connector back in and all doors locked except passenger side front, so I gather there is an issue there - Actuator likely?
Would this more or less confirm my original guess of the wires in the door boot being pinched?, and if so does anyone have experience with that repair?
Mitch
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Oh and a tip for you, when you go to reassemble everything, you might find the protective boot the wires pass through the hinge in is a bit tough to reinsert. Hit it with a squirt or 2 of liquid dish soap and it will slide right into the hole. The soap is better than oil because it will dry up and not hurt anything.
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So I'm back to my original guess/ diagnosis and inquiry, but glad there is some agreement from someone else (Thank you alloro) Now, I talked with a mechanic locally that told me they do not remove the door, but instead pull the harness to the inside of the truck to carry out the wiring repairs, since you have done this using the door removal method, can you judge the degree of difficulty of the leaving the door on? I would guess I would need to remove the parking break lever and cable mechanism which doesn't look too bad, at least on the surface. Care to compare the two approaches?
I like the inside method because taking the door off requires help from my Son, and I'm nervous about the realignment in the exact location, although I would outline the hinge locations in painters tape at the very least...
Mitch
I like the inside method because taking the door off requires help from my Son, and I'm nervous about the realignment in the exact location, although I would outline the hinge locations in painters tape at the very least...
Mitch
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Thanks, I hate going under there, as my back is pretty worn out from my years. The reason for my concerns about the realignment task is that I was thinking the bolts all are standard, with "roomy" sized clearance holes on the hinge leaf to allow for door alignment adjustment at fitting, so unless there are shoulder bolts and precision holes used for an engineered fit, it seems to me there is some need reset the door position. Am I correct or off base here.
many thanks...
Mitch
many thanks...
Mitch
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Here's a little trick I learned when removing a hood to pull an engine. Stop in a stationary store and get a fine point sharpie marker in a color that will show on your paint. Before loosening the hinges you trace them with the marker. During the reassembly you just center the hinges within the marker lines and the alignment will be the same as it was before.
Also, use a floor jack with a block of wood under the door to hold the weight instead of struggling to lift it into place.
Also, use a floor jack with a block of wood under the door to hold the weight instead of struggling to lift it into place.
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Sounds reasonable, I'm going in for it in the next couple of days, once I can get the help when he's around. I will first try to remove the harness with door still on, and try to remove boot from the body as well, sliding it towards the harness end, depending on available space to repair the wiring affected, I may try it with door in place.
So one more question comes to mind, that being materials needed for this job. In order to make this more reliable, have you used larger AWG wire than the OEM, or some heavy duty shrink sleeving on the repairs after wrapping in vinyl tape?
Mitch
So one more question comes to mind, that being materials needed for this job. In order to make this more reliable, have you used larger AWG wire than the OEM, or some heavy duty shrink sleeving on the repairs after wrapping in vinyl tape?
Mitch
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When adding any wire to the repair use the same gauge. If you don't have the same gauge you can go larger but never smaller. It is best to stick to the same size if the repair is in tight quarters only because it helps with making the splice uniform.
Here is how I do an electrical repair:
1. Cut out the bad part.
2. Strip the insulation off both ends you want to join.
3. Slide a length of heat shrink tubing over one of the wires, being careful to keep it away from heat.
4. Make a Western Union splice with the wires. (see image below)
5. Solder the wires.
6. Slide the shrink tube over the repair and shrink it with a heat gun or hair dryer.
7. Done
Note: If the splice is to be exposed to the weather, coat it with RTV then slide the shrink tubing over it and shrink. Doing this will keep moisture out of the splice permanently.
Here is how I do an electrical repair:
1. Cut out the bad part.
2. Strip the insulation off both ends you want to join.
3. Slide a length of heat shrink tubing over one of the wires, being careful to keep it away from heat.
4. Make a Western Union splice with the wires. (see image below)
5. Solder the wires.
6. Slide the shrink tube over the repair and shrink it with a heat gun or hair dryer.
7. Done
Note: If the splice is to be exposed to the weather, coat it with RTV then slide the shrink tubing over it and shrink. Doing this will keep moisture out of the splice permanently.
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Yes, good tips. I also will offset splices whenever possible to keep the harness from building up in size in the affected area. Not sure about this situation yet but I am concerned that the breakage will be in same spot of the harness for any affected conductors (I possibly have window and Lock circuit wiring affected) and I want to eliminate building up the size since in needs to fit thru the boot. Any idea what AWG the OEM wiring is?
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The AWG of the OEM circuits vary, there is no one size fits all. You have to check and match each AWG size as you repair them. I expect you will need 18, 16, 14, or 12 AWG wires.