Slave cylinder install?
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2020
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Slave cylinder install?
Hello, I have an 86 f250 460, I've recently rebuilt the engine but I am having a hard time reinstalling the slave cylinder onto the bellhousing/clutch fork. Anyone have any tips?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
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What exactly is creating the difficulty? You say re-install, so this is an existing slave you removed for some reason? A new slave cylinder has the plastic retainer bearing that you cut after install, or some can be unhooked with out cutting. I assume your issue is compressing the spring because the external slave plugs into it's bracket. Is that your issue?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
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Did you remove the bracket from the bellhousing? That's what I had to do on my '84 351W when I had the engine out. I left the slave cylinder attached to the bracket, and removed the whole thing from the bellhousing. IIRC, the bracket wrapped around the front of the bellhousing, over the big index plate between the engine block and bellhousing.
The bracket had two captive nuts on the front, and long through bolts from the aft side. I didn't have any trouble reinstalling the existing slave cylinder and bracket. I put the tip of the pushrod in the dimple on the arm, and then compressed the pushrod until the bracket popped into place. It stayed put by itself while I reinstalled the bolts.
The bracket had two captive nuts on the front, and long through bolts from the aft side. I didn't have any trouble reinstalling the existing slave cylinder and bracket. I put the tip of the pushrod in the dimple on the arm, and then compressed the pushrod until the bracket popped into place. It stayed put by itself while I reinstalled the bolts.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2020
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What exactly is creating the difficulty? You say re-install, so this is an existing slave you removed for some reason? A new slave cylinder has the plastic retainer bearing that you cut after install, or some can be unhooked with out cutting. I assume your issue is compressing the spring because the external slave plugs into it's bracket. Is that your issue?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
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Not sure what is happening. I don't remember any difficulty compressing the pushrod. It didn't take much force at all.
For the fluid, I'd suggest taking an old turkey baster and draining the fluid down about halfway, and then refill after installation. See if that works. I didn't have to touch the fluid level on my truck.
For the fluid, I'd suggest taking an old turkey baster and draining the fluid down about halfway, and then refill after installation. See if that works. I didn't have to touch the fluid level on my truck.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Like you, I had a terrible time getting my slave back in place. That plunger was very stiff and difficult to move and then while doing that you have to drive the slave back on the bell with that large clip apparatus that holds it.
The new slaves at the store have a plastic clip/strap system that holds in compressed till you get it installed. Mine had remnants of this, and I was able to drill small holes in the plastic, and thread thin wire through it and compress it and tie the wire to hold it. But it still wasn't enough. What I ended up doing to get that last little bit was to go to the store and get one of these long nuts and a bolt. They are coupler nuts, I got 3/8-16 size and the same size bolt. I then screwed the bolt into the couple nut, and wedged this inbetween the throwout arm and the bellhousing casting. With two wrenches I was able to expand the bolt/nut and start compressing the throwout arm enough to give me room to slip the slave in place.
The new slaves at the store have a plastic clip/strap system that holds in compressed till you get it installed. Mine had remnants of this, and I was able to drill small holes in the plastic, and thread thin wire through it and compress it and tie the wire to hold it. But it still wasn't enough. What I ended up doing to get that last little bit was to go to the store and get one of these long nuts and a bolt. They are coupler nuts, I got 3/8-16 size and the same size bolt. I then screwed the bolt into the couple nut, and wedged this inbetween the throwout arm and the bellhousing casting. With two wrenches I was able to expand the bolt/nut and start compressing the throwout arm enough to give me room to slip the slave in place.
Lead Driver
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I didn't have to use any excessive force whatsoever to get the plunger to retract. I wonder if you guys were getting some sort of hydraulic lock action going on. Maybe the vent is clogged in the master cylinder cap, so the fluid can't return? What if you loosed the cap to see if that makes any difference?
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Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
It's not the hydraulics, it's the very strong spring inside the slave. If it bolted on it would be much better, but mine had a huge clip and you had to drive it on the bell. Messing with that and trying to hold the plunger in all at the same time was not easy.
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Lead Driver
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Might be a long shot but if you can identify the make and model of your slave cylinder try contacting the company and asking them to sell you the retaining strap. I'm sure you're not the first person to have a need for the strap only. If that seems too much of a hassle a new slave is cheap. Buy a new one but instead of cutting the strap on that one unhook it. Then if you wear out the new one you have a spare to go to and reuse the plastic retainer strap.
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