Hi all,
I have a 2005 F350 6.0l random no crank issue that I know my starter is good & when this happened previously, it was found incorrect resistance in this starter wire. Its happening again & my gut tells me its simply the wire is bad.

My question is if this Yellow w/blue starter wire is a fusible link or not so I replace it correctly.

You can see in the picture this section where OEM used to have a connector is not on mine & there are 4 spots within 1 ft of wire that connections have been spliced. The 2nd pic shows one of the heat shrinks cut back.. that looks to me like a spice yes, not something else?

Ultimately I don't know where this wire terminates at the relay or other so I don't know how much I can replace unless I simply run the new wire on the outside of the harness to the same termination spot under the dash from the starter. I just want to ensure I replace the wire with the correct fusible link or wire specific as I fully suspect its degraded enough to cause concern. I can always replace the relay as well if needed, but this is so random, hard to diagnose in the fast food drive thru if it doesn't crank back over lol.\

Any guidance, advise or info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,


4 splice spots on the wire start & ending with the heat shrink spots, 1 blue & 1 clear connector.

This is the starter side heat shrink splice (I think splice) cut back.

 

When I get home tonight I can
post to the wiring diagram if someone.

 

Yellow with a blue stripe is a 10ga wire going to the solenoid, mounted to the starter. It's the one and only small wire connection at the starter. When powered, it engages the solenoid which engages the starter. There is no fusible link on that wire, it is fused before the starter relay by a 30a fuse, both in the central junction box, otherwise called the fuse panel, under the dash left side.

Someone may have hacked that up installing an alarm system, or for whatever reason.

Splices in series can increase resistance, and you could replace the entire wire up to the harness connection. You need to make sure the removable connection, which is good to have, can handle the amps.

 

Spot on Perfect... Thank You!!

 

Thank Jack for posting that.
I am having fun at work.
Nothing like safety wire in cramped spaces.

 

Turnin' wrenches on aircraft?

 

BINGO.
Spent that money on school so I may as well use what I learned.

 

Take the Lead position when it becomes available.

 

This is one of the few times I have walked into a place and not felt that the first few days I was learning what I was working on.
Yes I am new there and new at it. However I don't feel as lost when told to go work on XYZ machine.In this case it an airplane
not a Fin Press or Hairpin Tubing Bender. Mind you I had the tube bender figured out in two days and a lot of it was do.to the day
shift supervisor walking over and punching buttons and not knowing what he was doing. Just a few (more like 10) thousands
worth of damage. Some of the stuff I learned in air frame was very useful in fixing the bend arm that he bent. It turned out the
real fault was a failed hydraulic accumulator. That in turn took out the pump. Like I said close to $10,000 in damaged and down time.