Hi all,
I’ve done some research on several forums but none of the threads end with an answer. 2000 7.3 powerstroke 2wd with 149k. New Jasper transmission 6k miles ago. Starter issues began with the truck starting in the on (first key foward position) the same day I installed a double din radio. Thought it might have caused an electrical issue so I unplugged the harness and still had the same issue. After doing some research, I replaced the fender starter solenoid, ignition switch, and transmission range sensor. Truck would then not start. After having an electrical shop look at it, they determined the new ignition switch I installed was defective. Replaced with new and truck started. A week later truck will start but key has to be in a certain position. Replaced ignition tumbler, still having same issue. Two month old batteries then die. Replace batteries and alternator. Truck will start, but with a grinding noise from transmission bell housing area. Thinking it was a bad flex plate, I take it to a diesel shop. They determined the starter bendix was not able to retract because the flex plate is warped (replaced with jasper transmission 6k mikes ago) Now they say the starter is receiving power constantly and that’s why the bendix will not retract. Replaced with new starter, same issue.They are attempting to run down the issue but are having trouble, as the parts I replaced is where they would start. Anyone have suggestions or have a similar problem they found a resolution to?

 

This sounds like pretty some pretty straight-forward electrical diagnosis is in order. Identify where you have power and shouldn't (starter) and then work back from there. If I were to jump to conclusions, I would suspect the new ignition switch, especially if it's an aftermarket part.

 

Agreed.

Cranking is incredibly simple.


I would work backwards, starting at the starter (!!! pun) and see what works and doesn't.

 

Bad GEM (leaking windshield) can cause starter to engage when it wants to.

 

Forgot about that. Had a customers truck that kept having failed starters... Finally figured out it was randomly cranking at night until the battery or starter died. Looked at the GEM and it was all green and corrodes inside. Junkyard GEM fixed it.

 

That’s the course of action for now is to go from the starter back and see what’s constantly getting power. Could a defective fender mounted solenoid cause the problem? Also will drop the ignition switch and try cranking without using the key tumbler to eliminate that and see if it is disengaging after the start position. I’ve heard of the bad GEM but don’t those usually come with hosts of other issues such as door locks, windows ect? I just replaced the door lock actuators and did not fix the power locks. I was going to trace all that back before this issue thinking it was the dash mounted relay or a fuse somewhere. Thanks for the responses. When I figure it out I will definitely post the solution for the next person that runs into this issue.

 

So problems have been traced back to the GEM according to the shop. Trying to track one down as the nearest Ford dealer wanted $1600 for it. Shop is thinking they can find a Ford one cheaper somewhere else and have it flashed for my VIN. Anyone have suggestions on where to find a decently priced gem?

 

The GEM can be disassembled and cleaned up but it is a tedious job that requires attention to details. I do not think that the GEM gets flashed but I am not 100% on that. Here is a detailed writeup on it.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ater-leak.html

 

Search for one on www.car-part.com It is attached to the under dash fuse box, so maybe search for that and just call the local yards and see if they have a truck like yours. I’ve never had one ‘flashed’ so I don’t know if that’s a thing.

For $1600 I’d probably have a push button for the starter and identity as a new truck....

 

The source (www.car-part.com) that SSJ recommended is a good source to find odd ball stuff. I have used them in the past a couple of times and once while on the road 5+ hours from home and cracked a rim. I found a junk yard 45 minutes from our location at the time and they had a set of rims and I selected the best condition rim.

As for finding a GEM on car-part, you need to go about it a certain way as the website is somewhat difficult to utilize at times based on what you are looking for.

I believe you need to use the search criteria "engine computer" as seen below, but that may be for the PCM.



Disregard the year being 2002 in the image, I used this in a previous post.

As for having the GEM flashed by the dealer, this is partially true. I am fairly certain if you can find the EXACT same part number GEM, then you are good to go. If not, the GEM may need to be reprogrammed by the dealer as this is the module that set the customer accessories and options up in the vehicle. Stuff like power windows, ESOF, etc... That is not to say the replacement GEM will not function properly though, so give it a shot first and roll on from there.

FYI...

 

Thanks for the website link. I found it under electrical- computers non-engine. This website will definitely come in handy for other hard to find parts too

 

Alright so a few months later and issue is still not resolved. Gem has been replaced with a new one (same part number) and the starter intermittently will stay engaged along with a battery drain. Next course of action is the fuse block, as it does have slight corrosion. I plan on trying to repair it based on the tutorial posted in this thread, since the exact replacement is discontinued ( part # yc3z14a068ha). I did see a video of someone “cloning” the fuse box. Basically saying all the boxes are the same, but the female fuse recepticals are different for each trim level/ accessories. My question is has anyone cloned a fuse box as a backup in case I screw up the repair?

 

After rereading your posts above, I'm not sure where to send you on this other than what I have written below.

Not to my knowledge, but I never retained much information...

If I were you, before I invested any further money or time I would go with the advice from kbeefy in post #3.

 

It all started with the radio install. Are you POSITIVE that everything is connected correctly? If this were my truck, I would be going back to that and restoring any splices that might have been made in the job of installing that aftermarket radio.

 

All the splices are after the factory radio harness. That was the first thing I did to try to remedy the issue was unplug the aftermarket harness (spliced to the radio) from the factory radio harness. At this point I’m willing to wire in a push starter but I don’t think that would fix the battery drain. Don’t really wanna have to have a battery disconnect each time I park the truck either .