When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
@Brooklynh87 , as ESwift said above, stay in communication with KC Turbos. They are good people to deal with. His staff and team will be able to get you sorted out in short order.
That said, I would send them the picture you have posted via email with an annotation with specific questions regarding the blue line and if it in the orientation it left their shop or in a different orientation. If it is different, the wheel and assembly may be off balance which could lead to a catastrophic failure down the road.
Everything may be just fine, but a turbo center assembly is something I would be 100% sure of before running.
Keep us updated as we are interested in seeing what happens and in finding you a solution that gets you back on the road with confidence.
I just want to emphasize that my observations about the blue line were phrased as questions, not as answers.
For the answer, why don't we call in @Peixinho to join this discussion, that way everybody reading will learn how KC Turbo, or KC Turbo's supplier, applies blue lines.
I don’t want to speculate too much before the expert gets here and end up sounding like a baboon…
But, I will anyhow. All the compressor wheels I’ve seen (just a few) have the nuts as part of the wheel, not separate. So let’s see what Charlie says but I’ll be surprised if it’s separate.
I do want to go a bit further about the theory of debris stopping the compressor since Y2KW57 made me think a little deeper.
The turbine should be trying to turn the shaft in a manner to tighten the compressor nut rather than loosen it (in my mind anyhow).
This leads to a point though, I would think the force of the turbine would have moved the nut if the debris theory was valid. The marks look perfect (nut to shaft) so I may no longer suspect the theory presented previously.
The other question is if the nut is actually one with the wheel, milled as a unit
I went and looked at compressor wheels for sale and every last one of them listed had the nut as part of the whole unit, not separate. So I'm going to assume that this one is no different.
I went and looked at compressor wheels for sale and every last one of them listed had the nut as part of the whole unit, not separate. So I'm going to assume that this one is no different.
My assumption as well, one thing I see is that the 300x series appear to have a different style then the balanced assembly, but that may be due to the diameter differences of the compressor wheel.
I messaged Charlie for an answer.
Sorry, I wrote up and responded to this thread yesterday and I somehow posted it in the thread "below" this one... I guess I scrolled down too far. Here is a copy and paste.
Thanks for the tag. Chris reached out to us Sunday afternoon and we have been in touch via email and phone.
If there is any resistance when spinning then it needs to come off and be inspected. It does not look like it is rubbing the cover or that there is bearing damage causing excess play. But it can be hard to tell from pictures. It’s possible something went through the turbo and got jammed in between the turbine wheel and heat shields… I have seen bolts, rust, carbon junks, etc. I have seen stuff get jammed in there, and cause minimal damage... but I have also seen where it had enough side load to create damage to the bearings even after the debris is removed that can shorten the life of the turbo.
It could have also been some debris on the oil side of the turbo that was jammed in the bearings somewhere and worked free.
Another theory is if the turbo was not pre-lubed I have seen scoring on the bearings that creates resistance.
It honestly could be some sort of manufacturing defect, but for it to be jammed like that and then now spin freely sounds more like debris of some sort jammed in the turbine or compressor wheel.
Either way, we are working with Chris to get him another unit sent out. He has been very patient and understanding when it came to all diag questions and the process to switch out turbos. He had an RMA and shipping label Monday.
To answer some previous questions. The blue mark on the shaft and nut of the comp wheel are to line up during assembly. We makes those marks during assembly while balancing.
The marks on the blade play different parts... one is for orientation with the bearing stack and turbine wheel during assembly. But also it is a much more obvious mark to show the turbo has been balanced and easily identifiable. I guess you could say it is also cosmetic... at one time we each used our own color markers to know who built each turbo, but that is now stored in the serial number.
Wonder if that line on the compressor blade is some kind of wear indicator vs an indexing mark?
I was going to say the same, probably something they started to help with so much install negligence. Mine only had the tightness mark at the shaft/nut
He mentioned having to cut a bolt to get old turbo out, I'm wondering if some sort of debris got in the oil supply and worked its way into the thrust bearing and kept the shaft
This was mine out of the box
I know I'm late and sorry for not responding sooner. For some reason I don't get notifications when comments are added to this post. I happened to come back to it today and saw all the comments after my previous one.
As Charlie already mentioned KC took care of it right away. Charlie and Chris immediately sent me a new one and I sent the old one back. They were very accommodating and took a ton of weight off my shoulders. I want to thank them again for helping me out with this issue!
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.