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Hey guys been trying to track down a low power issue I have been having and have verified with my gauges that my engine is having issues. Made it back to Alaska from the lower 48 and soon after noticed my icp wasn't quite making what it used to (WOT around 1900-2000 psi) and my IPR (65-75% WOT). I was due for an oil change so changed that. Didn't change anything. So did injector o rings and glow plugs since they've probably never been done and didn't change anything besides my fuel pressure being more stable and not dropping below 60 psi anymore. I have checked my low pressure oil through the hpop reservoir and when cold its around 40psi and when warm drops down to 15 psi at idle. I am wondering if this could be a HPOP failing or if it could be an injector. Don't really want to just keep throwing parts at it to find the issue and looking for any advice. Engine sounds much healthier since replacing the injector o rings and there's very little blow by if any. I have swapped the IPR with a known good one and it acted the exact same way.
Your best bet would be to deadhead the hpop, cap one hpop line off and then stick a 5,000psi gauge on the other and crank the engine. You should get 3,800-4,200psi on the gauge.
Have you unplugged the icp yet to rule it out? That low pressure oil is a little on the low side. Maybe lpop is getting weak and not keeping up with demand. Could also be the bypass valve under the plug in the top of the block, or the oil pressure regulator in the filter head.
Your best bet would be to deadhead the hpop, cap one hpop line off and then stick a 5,000psi gauge on the other and crank the engine. You should get 3,800-4,200psi on the gauge.
I would add to this that you need to perform this test on a fully warmed up engine to be able to obtain the most accurate test results. Cold thick oil can cover up some problems.
Your best bet would be to deadhead the hpop, cap one hpop line off and then stick a 5,000psi gauge on the other and crank the engine. You should get 3,800-4,200psi on the gauge.
Any idea on the best route? Take fittings out of pump and cap one side and test the other side? I'll need to figure out what fittings sizes I would need to do it but I do have access to a hydraulic testing gauges that go up to 5,800psi.
Originally Posted by udsuth78
Have you unplugged the icp yet to rule it out? That low pressure oil is a little on the low side. Maybe lpop is getting weak and not keeping up with demand. Could also be the bypass valve under the plug in the top of the block, or the oil pressure regulator in the filter head.
I have unplugged the icp and didn't really make any difference besides not being able to monitor ICP anymore and just the usual unplugged ICP running. The oil pressure seems to be normal from what I could find researching with 7 being the minimum. It goes up as rpm is increased and ran around 40psi or more at WOT.
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
I would add to this that you need to perform this test on a fully warmed up engine to be able to obtain the most accurate test results. Cold thick oil can cover up some problems.
Right I know it needs to be done warm. The warmer the truck gets the worse my issue gets also.
Another symptom I forgot to add is whenever coming to a stop and the torque converter unlocks the truck is supposed to go down to idle. My truck goes down below idle for a second or two and then comes back up to normal idle speed. I have had it quit on several occasions when it tries to go to idle also.
So if one were to unplug the injectors at the valve cover harness and crank the engine over that would in theory be the same as dead heading except would also be testing the injector o rings right? I tried that and only got up to 2300 psi after cranking for 5-10 seconds and it took a while to get there but the engine was also cold. Just thinking of ways to test without buying all the gauges.
Yes that is a method for testing the system as a whole. 2300 is lower than you would like to see, but that is also dependent on the icp reading correctly. About the only thing I can think of that doesn't involve sourcing some fittings to isolate individual areas is running both hoses to 1 head at a time. Not sure how feasible it is, and you'd still have to figure out how to get the icp wiring to reach the passenger head. Never heard of anyone trying this method and you do run the risk of causing leaks anywhere you disturb a sealed fitting, but it's an idea. Cheap and dirty.
The sticker is pretty dirty currently and would need a tooth brush to try and clean it off to see it very well. But it appears to be a stock one as the sticker has a brownish red color like the stock ones. I got the engine with 115k miles and it has 170k now. Unknown previous history to me.
Yes that is a method for testing the system as a whole. 2300 is lower than you would like to see, but that is also dependent on the icp reading correctly. About the only thing I can think of that doesn't involve sourcing some fittings to isolate individual areas is running both hoses to 1 head at a time. Not sure how feasible it is, and you'd still have to figure out how to get the icp wiring to reach the passenger head. Never heard of anyone trying this method and you do run the risk of causing leaks anywhere you disturb a sealed fitting, but it's an idea. Cheap and dirty.
I do have the HPX installed so both heads are equalized and seeing equal pressure now. the icp is fairly new as the last one died on me this winter. I’ve gone through 2-3 icps in the last year
I do have the HPX installed so both heads are equalized and seeing equal pressure now. the icp is fairly new as the last one died on me this winter. I’ve gone through 2-3 icps in the last year
What I was suggesting was hooking both hpop hoses to 1 head at a time. That could show a discrepancy from one side to the other if one exists. If both gave the same reading then it's a safe bet the lower numbers are the pump or IPR. If one head showed a substantial difference then it's likely and o-ring or injector to blame.
If you have the oem STC quick connect lines you can get a STC cap for one, and then you could see if a local hydraulic shop has an STC adapter to go to your gauge fitting. You could deadhead the pump this way very easily.
simply cap a line and hook other to gauge and crank. Should get about 4,200 psi
This works because with no hpo going to the head the icp sensor will read zero and when cranked from ignition, the pcm will command the ipr to close trying to get icp. The only time this may not work is if the ipr has failed and will not close when commanded(of course then a new ipr may solve the whole issue)
If you have the oem STC quick connect lines you can get a STC cap for one, and then you could see if a local hydraulic shop has an STC adapter to go to your gauge fitting. You could deadhead the pump this way very easily.
simply cap a line and hook other to gauge and crank. Should get about 4,200 psi
This works because with no hpo going to the head the icp sensor will read zero and when cranked from ignition, the pcm will command the ipr to close trying to get icp. The only time this may not work is if the ipr has failed and will not close when commanded(of course then a new ipr may solve the whole issue)
I obviously don't know for sure having never been there, but I have a feeling this may be easier said than done in Chickaloon Alaska. According to Google there's a population of about 250 people.
I obviously don't know for sure having never been there, but I have a feeling this may be easier said than done in Chickaloon Alaska. According to Google there's a population of about 250 people.
Eh, thats about like where I live. Besides that is just up the road from 1023 diesel :-)
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