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Nice progress on the build. I am curious as you whether you used 3/16" line throughout the install? I am ay the stage where brake plumbing is next. I am toying with using 1/4" for the main lines front and back, then dropping down to 3/16" at the "T"s. I've decided to use NiCopp lines.
Enjoying your project build.
I did use 3/16” all the way through. Note that there are 3 T’s required. At the master you need to split off the fronts, so #1 T there, #2 for the pressure switch for brakes lights, and #3 from the rear flex line to the wheel cylinders. In that scenario the only 1/4” would be right at the master.
I decided on stainless, a bit tougher to work with so if I were to do it again I’d go with NiCopp.
Today was for sure a day in brake hell. Since I’m waiting on parts I figured I’d do the rear brakes on my Volvo. Easy, just needs pads, they’re down to under 3mm so it’s time.
Nope, both rear calipers are frozen, rebuilt calipers for a Volvo…$250 each!!! My local mom and pop will have them for me in the AM, meanwhile she’s on Jack stands.
But the good news is my generator and regulator is ready, and all is good, just a minor adjustment, $65.
Glad to hear about the genny. What kind of "adjustment" was needed? Very cool you had old school people who could sort that out for you.
And what kind of Volvo, Bob? I have spent MANY MANY hours under the hood, inside of, and underneath many different Volvos.
Joe said he adjusted the regulator.
My Volvo is. 2015 XC60. Totally trouble free all this time. My 18 year old daughter drives it more than I do now, so when I got in I noticed the brakes seemed off. Rear brakes down to 2.5mm, so easy fix, new pads, except the calipers are frozen, and expensive.
My Volvo is. 2015 XC60. Totally trouble free all this time. My 18 year old daughter drives it more than I do now, so when I got in I noticed the brakes seemed off. Rear brakes down to 2.5mm, so easy fix, new pads, except the calipers are frozen, and expensive.
Color me red…and stoopid…
This car has electronic parking brakes. I had to take the motor off and manually back off the brakes. The calipers are just fine.
LOL!! Been there and DONE THAT exact thing on my '12 XC70 T6! When I saw the e-brake motor hanging off the rear caliper I had a "WTF" moment and hit the interwebz. Funny how everyone talks about "special tools" and computers to reset the e-brake, but you saw how easy it was to do that once you were aware of the setup. Glad that worked out, too!!
Have you found time to reinstall the electrical bits to see if the charging is any better?
LOL!! Been there and DONE THAT exact thing on my '12 XC70 T6! When I saw the e-brake motor hanging off the rear caliper I had a "WTF" moment and hit the interwebz. Funny how everyone talks about "special tools" and computers to reset the e-brake, but you saw how easy it was to do that once you were aware of the setup. Glad that worked out, too!!
LOL…I was sitting watching the news last night with that exact thought hit me. I YouTubed it and backed it off with a screwdriver, no special tools.
Have you found time to reinstall the electrical bits to see if the charging is any better?
I finally finished up plumbing the brakes. The dual master is installed, all brake lines run and connected, tested the master for leaks. I had some difficulty getting the pressure switch to seal but it seems to be holding now, I will test more once I bleed the system.
Rear connected to the pressure switch, front split to right/left. Another view Still another view Original right front flex hose, not looking too healthy. View from above.
What was the issue with the pressure switch sealing?
Can you fill both bowls of the MC from inside fairly easily (with a funnel, or course)?
I had trouble getting a grip on the pressure switch, until I realized the case was a hex and I could use a big adjustable wrench in it. I put the T in the vice and tightened it.
I haven’t tried filling the MC yet. I picked up a turkey baster which I think might work. If not, I’ll lengthen the hole in the floor and make a cover.
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