DTC Codes for ABS and GEM Help
02 - 7.3 4x4
I hooked up Forscan because i had an ABS light come on. Here what she read so im guessing new sensor for the front left wheel? It does feel like its been a little sticky when braking.
===ABS DTC C1155===
Code: C1155 - Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure
Module: Antilock braking system
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure
This DTC may be caused by :
Sensor
C1158 - Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Coherency Fault
Module: Antilock braking system
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Coherency Fault
More troubling, i got these 2 from the GEM. My vacuum lines are shot so i need to get those fixed, but what do these codes mean? BTW i had NO CEL light, they just came up with Forscan. Cleared them and they came right back but still no CEL light on
===GEM DTC P1876===
Code: P1876 - Transfer Case 2-Wheel Drive Solenoid Circuit Open Or Short To Ground
Module: Generic Electronic Module
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Transfer Case 2-Wheel Drive Solenoid Circuit Open Or Short To Ground
Follow the routines in the service manual to resolve the DTC listed.
===GEM DTC P1832===
Code: P1832 - Transmission Transfer Case 4WD Solenoid circuit failure
Module: Generic Electronic Module
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Transmission Transfer Case 4WD Solenoid circuit failure
Follow the routines in the service manual to resolve the DTC listed.
Thanks all!
The C1155 could be due to a faulty sensor, cabling fault, or ABS module fault. Check your wheel bearing as it, if failing, can take out the sensor.
The C1155 could be due to a faulty sensor, cabling fault, or ABS module fault. Check your wheel bearing as it, if failing, can take out the sensor.
After that, I got no more weird codes like that again. Cannot promise that will fix yours but it did do mine. If you do replace brakes, do yourself a favor and order new caliper frame bolts. 1 of mine did not want to move.
After trial and error-solvents, heat , impact wrench, I finally had to take my 2nd floor jack and use it under a pull bar-slowly to generate enough force to get it to turn.-and finally got it out, That was probably 2000 lbs the jacket lifted against the weight of the X. Always use high quality tools or this little trick can break a breaker bar, It did not loosen but rather fought me the whole way out. The last 1/3 I was able to do with breaker bar by hand but it was tough until the last thread was out. Took a 1 1/2 hours
to move the bolt 1/4 turn at a time.
The transfer case deal can be a vacuum line to the ESOF system. Have car running and then turn off(leaves a vacuum in the line). Turn 4wd switch to see if the solenoids click to lock in the front hubs.to 4WD. If not, manually lock the hubs. Take it out and try to engage 4WD. If it works, you're ok. THE HUBS FAIL-A LOT. My system now works but I don't trust them so I manually lock them anyway.
After that, I got no more weird codes like that again. Cannot promise that will fix yours but it did do mine. If you do replace brakes, do yourself a favor and order new caliper frame bolts. 1 of mine did not want to move.
After trial and error-solvents, heat , impact wrench, I finally had to take my 2nd floor jack and use it under a pull bar-slowly to generate enough force to get it to turn.-and finally got it out, That was probably 2000 lbs the jacket lifted against the weight of the X. Always use high quality tools or this little trick can break a breaker bar, It did not loosen but rather fought me the whole way out. The last 1/3 I was able to do with breaker bar by hand but it was tough until the last thread was out. Took a 1 1/2 hours
to move the bolt 1/4 turn at a time.
The transfer case deal can be a vacuum line to the ESOF system. Have car running and then turn off(leaves a vacuum in the line). Turn 4wd switch to see if the solenoids click to lock in the front hubs.to 4WD. If not, manually lock the hubs. Take it out and try to engage 4WD. If it works, you're ok. THE HUBS FAIL-A LOT. My system now works but I don't trust them so I manually lock them anyway.
Similarly, a fault in the rear brakes will not cause an electrical circuit fault in the front ABS sensor circuits.
your sender or the wiring is bad.
sender is in the wheel hub, wire runs up the wheel well. Simple check is go unplug it and visually inspect the wire and look for corrosion in the connector pins. Replace as necessary F81Z2C204BB
DTC P1876
System that controls the shift motor is not seeing the voltage/resistance values it wants. You will need the factory service manual to complete the pin out test for your model year. ( i only have the 2001 and it’s slightly different that yours )
that said, i see this alot and have never bothered to correct it because the system still works despite the DTC. My theory is a little corrosion causes some resistance in the circuit and the calibrations is overly sensitive. One of those ( and there are several in the ford specific DTC library) that are glitchy, If if your 4x4 MMS Multi Mode Selector ( the 4x4 switch ) is engaging 4 high snd 4 low at the transfer case don’t sweet this DTC
DTC P1832
is your vacuum leak.
repairing the vacuum lines can be challenging if you don’t have new Ford parts, most folks just switch to a aftermarket manual hub for reliability.
if i lived in snow county and used 4x4 in my daily driving i might fix it but even then, probably not. I’d rather know I have my hubs locked than find out by ending up in the ditch.
The C1155 could be due to a faulty sensor, cabling fault, or ABS module fault. Check your wheel bearing as it, if failing, can take out the sensor.
2) It was the bearing that took out the ABS sensor. Just replaced the hub assembly and that is taken care of.
your sender or the wiring is bad.
sender is in the wheel hub, wire runs up the wheel well. Simple check is go unplug it and visually inspect the wire and look for corrosion in the connector pins. Replace as necessary F81Z2C204BB
DTC P1876
System that controls the shift motor is not seeing the voltage/resistance values it wants. You will need the factory service manual to complete the pin out test for your model year. ( i only have the 2001 and it’s slightly different that yours )
that said, i see this alot and have never bothered to correct it because the system still works despite the DTC. My theory is a little corrosion causes some resistance in the circuit and the calibrations is overly sensitive. One of those ( and there are several in the ford specific DTC library) that are glitchy, If if your 4x4 MMS Multi Mode Selector ( the 4x4 switch ) is engaging 4 high snd 4 low at the transfer case don’t sweet this DTC
DTC P1832
is your vacuum leak.
repairing the vacuum lines can be challenging if you don’t have new Ford parts, most folks just switch to a aftermarket manual hub for reliability.
if i lived in snow county and used 4x4 in my daily driving i might fix it but even then, probably not. I’d rather know I have my hubs locked than find out by ending up in the ditch.
DTC P1876: Got it! I just replaced the vacuum lines last night. We will see what that does and then ill check into DTC 1876. This truck came with manual hubs as well so i can still use 4wd regardless.
Questions on that, if i manually lock the hubs, i still need to turn the switch inside to engage the transfer case correct? Seems logical but i have only had this truck for a couple months. My F150 has no option for manual locking hubs (switch or nothing) and my IH Scout has Warn manual hubs and the shifter on the TC. The excursion is in the middle of both of those with ESOF and manual locking hubs haha.
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The 4WD fault codes you have are due to an electrical circuit issue with the relays that control the transfer case. If the transfer case motor doesn't work at all, start with the easy check I already gave you. If the motor works just fine, then follow pirate's tip to ignore them for now.
The 4WD fault codes you have are due to an electrical circuit issue with the relays that control the transfer case. If the transfer case motor doesn't work at all, start with the easy check I already gave you. If the motor works just fine, then follow pirate's tip to ignore them for now.
Is there another Fuse panel under the dash? I cant find F59...







