ABS Code help, please!
#1
ABS Code help, please!
About a month ago I drove through some water too fast and triggered my ABS and BRAKE light to come on.
I finally borrowed a scanner and got two codes:
B1342 and C1235
the C1235 indicates a problem with the right rear wheel sensor, so i'll give that a look and see if the sensor got knocked loose.
what do I look for with the B1342 code? as best I can tell, that's just a generic fault code for the ABS ECU, correct?
trying to troubleshoot this a bit before I take it in.
truck stops fine, and the A4WD seems to work like it should, leastwise it doesn't flash at me when I engage the swtich (which I would think it would if the ECU isn't seeing the signal).
any ideas on where to start?
I finally borrowed a scanner and got two codes:
B1342 and C1235
the C1235 indicates a problem with the right rear wheel sensor, so i'll give that a look and see if the sensor got knocked loose.
what do I look for with the B1342 code? as best I can tell, that's just a generic fault code for the ABS ECU, correct?
trying to troubleshoot this a bit before I take it in.
truck stops fine, and the A4WD seems to work like it should, leastwise it doesn't flash at me when I engage the swtich (which I would think it would if the ECU isn't seeing the signal).
any ideas on where to start?
#2
#3
that helps, thanks!
I looked at the wiring for the sensor and couldn't see any problems visually. Correct me if I'm wrong, but that C1235 means that there is no communication to the sensor, yes? meaning an open circuit possibly?
I did take the bulkhead connector off the ABS module and everything there looked good (visually). no water or corrosion, anyway.
time to get serious about it, I guess.
the code reader I had wouldn't clear the codes, so it looks like I have to take it in regardless.
I guess a rear wheel sensor or bearing wouldn't surprise me. I had to have the other wheel rear wheel bearing replaced because of a similar issue.
thanks!
I looked at the wiring for the sensor and couldn't see any problems visually. Correct me if I'm wrong, but that C1235 means that there is no communication to the sensor, yes? meaning an open circuit possibly?
I did take the bulkhead connector off the ABS module and everything there looked good (visually). no water or corrosion, anyway.
time to get serious about it, I guess.
the code reader I had wouldn't clear the codes, so it looks like I have to take it in regardless.
I guess a rear wheel sensor or bearing wouldn't surprise me. I had to have the other wheel rear wheel bearing replaced because of a similar issue.
thanks!
#4
Unplug the ABS connector and the RR wheel speed sensor.
Then, then with KOEO, check to see if there is voltage on either of the two wires.
If there is, the harness is shorted to power some place.
Then, with key OFF, check the resistance between each wire and ground.
If there is low or no resistance to ground, the harness is shorted to ground someplace.
And check both wires for an open within the harness.
And check that the two wires are not shorted together within the harness.
Also check the wheel speed sensor itself for a signal while you rotate the wheel.
#5
Thought I'd post a follow up to this since I finally got it fixed.
The code for the rear wheel speed sensor turned out to be a bad wheel bearing. Replacing that made it so my A4WD worked properly. At the same time I had the transmission flushed and the larger factory cooler installed. Total bill was about $550 for the work plus $160 for the amsoil ATF I brought to him. So $710 for that trip to the shop. But the brake warning and abs warning lamps were still on.
Diagnosis was a fried ABS module. No longer available from ford, so a salvaged part was ordered and installed yesterday.
Installing the new-used module turned off the brake light but the abs still didn't work because the computer or abs module had to be reprogramed since the VIN's didn't match. So it was back to the shop today so he could get it to another shop with the proper programming tools to relearn the computer. After working on it all day and having to download something from the fried module, they got everything to work and all is fixed.
Total bill for this trip was $250 for the used module, $170 to install it, $100 to reprogram it, plus a few incidentals and tax and it was another $550 out the door.
So, to get everything working back the way it is supposed to.... Right around $1100, plus the fluid, plus the tires I needed..... I've blown right around $1800 to stay on the road. In my world, thats about 2-weeks of earned wages, which when you think of having to work for 80hours to pay for something, that's a big deal imo.
I REALLY wish I hadn't fixed the ABS. But putting the safety of my family first, it was probably the right thing to do.
Anyway... It's fixed, and I dont have any lights on the dash.
The truck owes me some friggin miles now though....
The code for the rear wheel speed sensor turned out to be a bad wheel bearing. Replacing that made it so my A4WD worked properly. At the same time I had the transmission flushed and the larger factory cooler installed. Total bill was about $550 for the work plus $160 for the amsoil ATF I brought to him. So $710 for that trip to the shop. But the brake warning and abs warning lamps were still on.
Diagnosis was a fried ABS module. No longer available from ford, so a salvaged part was ordered and installed yesterday.
Installing the new-used module turned off the brake light but the abs still didn't work because the computer or abs module had to be reprogramed since the VIN's didn't match. So it was back to the shop today so he could get it to another shop with the proper programming tools to relearn the computer. After working on it all day and having to download something from the fried module, they got everything to work and all is fixed.
Total bill for this trip was $250 for the used module, $170 to install it, $100 to reprogram it, plus a few incidentals and tax and it was another $550 out the door.
So, to get everything working back the way it is supposed to.... Right around $1100, plus the fluid, plus the tires I needed..... I've blown right around $1800 to stay on the road. In my world, thats about 2-weeks of earned wages, which when you think of having to work for 80hours to pay for something, that's a big deal imo.
I REALLY wish I hadn't fixed the ABS. But putting the safety of my family first, it was probably the right thing to do.
Anyway... It's fixed, and I dont have any lights on the dash.
The truck owes me some friggin miles now though....
#6
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