Bench seat bracket screws: cannot budge...
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4wd Low
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 13
Likes: 2
Bench seat bracket screws: cannot budge...
I'm trying to remove the rear seats from my 2008 E-150. The screw heads are T-55.
I've tried a hand impact driver with no luck - but it's old and I don't know if it's even working properly. I don't have an air impact wrench or a cordless impact tool. Since the screw heads have large rubber covers, I'm doubtful that PB Blaster would help.
Any tricks to removing the screws? Is this a good excuse to get a cordless impact tool or other tool?
I've tried a hand impact driver with no luck - but it's old and I don't know if it's even working properly. I don't have an air impact wrench or a cordless impact tool. Since the screw heads have large rubber covers, I'm doubtful that PB Blaster would help.
Any tricks to removing the screws? Is this a good excuse to get a cordless impact tool or other tool?
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 1,159
Likes: 358
From: Anderson, California
Anyway you can get penetrating oil down around the screw head may help.
Also, you might try a heat gun from underneath to warm up and maybe expand the nut.
My guess is you might rent an impact gun from Ace Hardware for breaking them loose.
I had a heck of a time trying to break loose the bolts which attach a front wheel-hub assembly on my wife's 2007 Suburban 4x4.
The fastener's were all loctited from the factory, and my 1/2" breaker bar just flexed.
I wound up borrowing a friend's Snap On cordless impact gun which made quick work of removal. Most Impressive.
Also, you might try a heat gun from underneath to warm up and maybe expand the nut.
My guess is you might rent an impact gun from Ace Hardware for breaking them loose.
I had a heck of a time trying to break loose the bolts which attach a front wheel-hub assembly on my wife's 2007 Suburban 4x4.
The fastener's were all loctited from the factory, and my 1/2" breaker bar just flexed.
I wound up borrowing a friend's Snap On cordless impact gun which made quick work of removal. Most Impressive.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Are you certain the bolt heads are not Torx PLUS fasteners? Too many make the mistake if a Torx bit fits in the recess its the right tool, the PLUS designation makes a huge difference.
I'd find a way to apply Kroil penetrating fluid to the underside of the seat bolts with the idea it will wick upwards and help loosen any built up rust or corrosion. I don't think a heat gun will be all that effective if these bolts are severely corroded in place. An actual torch applied from the underside would be called for but only if two people are present to make sure heat doesn't start a fire or burn surrounding parts.
If you're unable to secure tools for this job consider taking it to a body shop for their help.
I'd find a way to apply Kroil penetrating fluid to the underside of the seat bolts with the idea it will wick upwards and help loosen any built up rust or corrosion. I don't think a heat gun will be all that effective if these bolts are severely corroded in place. An actual torch applied from the underside would be called for but only if two people are present to make sure heat doesn't start a fire or burn surrounding parts.
If you're unable to secure tools for this job consider taking it to a body shop for their help.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,400
Likes: 2,606
From: Near Salt Lake City
Just be prepared to break a few torx sockets
Just because the torque is 35 or so ft lbs.
The breakaway torque to remove the rusted bolts may be 200
Be prepared to drill and re tap the broken ones
A torch is your friend as are good rags soaked in water
You can do this
Just because the torque is 35 or so ft lbs.
The breakaway torque to remove the rusted bolts may be 200
Be prepared to drill and re tap the broken ones
A torch is your friend as are good rags soaked in water
You can do this
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 996
Likes: 5
From: Albany, Good Ol' USA
When Torx bit failed I went to my toolbox and got my L22 Vice Grips and with the help of a hand mallet I got 'em all out.on my '98. I found corrosion on the bottom side of the bolts. If I ever re mount the seats I'll use hex head.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
When re-installing any sort of body or exterior bolt/fastener consider using aluminum- or nickel-based anti-seize. Even if you don't believe you'll ever remove those fasteners again its just a good preventative practice that'll work in your favor in the future.
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Laughing Gas
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From: Albany, Good Ol' USA
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Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Willamette Valley
I agree Torx-plus gets a much more solid bite on torx-plus fasteners. Air ratchets may not be up to the task, many are measured in in/lbs so not as much torque although they do make industrial high torque versions ($$$). Battery 1/2" drive impacts ($$) may not fit the space; aren't the seats above many of the bolt heads? I used a vintage 15" long (professional grade) 1/2" drive breaker bar and a length of pipe when I did this job and that van was super clean underneath. My impression was the welded nut inserts in the floor of the van were a type of prevailing torque fastener because even after a couple full rotations it wouldn't get a lot easier to turn the bolts, may also have had thread lock compound. Only near the end of extraction was I able to switch over to the 1/2" ratchet and IIRC had to go back to the breaker bar on a couple. Did get them all out without stripping or breaking anything, still have them in a parts box somewhere if you need replacements!
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 13
Likes: 2
I appreciate all the replies and comments. Here's what I did...
The short version:
An improvised breaker bar got them loose - probably with the help of multiple shots of PB B'laster over a period of five days and numerous beats from the impact wrench.
The long version:
They were Torx Plus heads. I didn't know there was such a thing. So I bought a set of Torx Plus impact bits.
I also bought a cordless impact wrench. That got some of them loose.
For the remaining screws, I drilled a small hole (7/64") at a slight angle in the Torx Plus recess just far enough to reach the threads (about 3/16"). That allowed me to apply PB B'laster from above.
Then the breaker bar got the rest of the screws loose. Ugh.
The short version:
An improvised breaker bar got them loose - probably with the help of multiple shots of PB B'laster over a period of five days and numerous beats from the impact wrench.
The long version:
They were Torx Plus heads. I didn't know there was such a thing. So I bought a set of Torx Plus impact bits.
I also bought a cordless impact wrench. That got some of them loose.
For the remaining screws, I drilled a small hole (7/64") at a slight angle in the Torx Plus recess just far enough to reach the threads (about 3/16"). That allowed me to apply PB B'laster from above.
Then the breaker bar got the rest of the screws loose. Ugh.
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