Bench seat removal
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Bench seat removal
I have a 2010 E-350 with bench seats that I want to remove. The brackets are held down with bolts which appear to be torx . However a T55 Torx bit seems to be slightly small and the T60 is to big. Is there something special about these bolts or should the T55 work?
Thanks
Thanks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Some torx headed fasteners do feel sloppy---in this case use the T-55 since the T-60 won't fit. I'd suggest using a hardened Torx socket instead of the softer types typically found in less expensive sets.
You can find just the Torx bit that will fit into a 1/4" or 5/16" standard hex socket which shouldn't cost more than a few dollars at a good tool store. Don't use any sort of impact tool---a nice longer handled 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet is my preferred tool when removing my front seats for engine maintenance.
Perhaps use a bit of PB Blaster if you can get to the underside of the bolts---anti-seize on the threads if you re-install the seat makes the next removal a lot easier.
You can find just the Torx bit that will fit into a 1/4" or 5/16" standard hex socket which shouldn't cost more than a few dollars at a good tool store. Don't use any sort of impact tool---a nice longer handled 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet is my preferred tool when removing my front seats for engine maintenance.
Perhaps use a bit of PB Blaster if you can get to the underside of the bolts---anti-seize on the threads if you re-install the seat makes the next removal a lot easier.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Laquey, MO
If you are referring to the T55/T60 issue, I am not aware of separate SAE/Metric sizing with Torx fasteners. They appear to be a universal system.
Since you are removing the brackets, be sure to re-install the bolts to prevent moisture and exhaust fumes from entering the van.
Since you are removing the brackets, be sure to re-install the bolts to prevent moisture and exhaust fumes from entering the van.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
With the sloppy manufacturing of all non-critical fasteners these days you'll find a lot of play in the wrench or tool fit on bolts and nuts generally.
Lead Driver
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From: Laquey, MO
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2009
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I removed the rear seats in my E-350. The seat adapters were held down with hex hd bolts , but the seat belt brackets were held down with torx.I broke 2 Craftsman torx wrenches and then bought an impact torx from Cornwell tools.The impact wrench is what did the trick....but you need to use the IMPACT torx.
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Torx is metric. T55 means 5.5 mm head size. Always start with big Torx tools and work down to the first that fits, many times if you work up you'll get a too-small bit that 'fits'. It fits well enough to strip the screw and ruin the tool. Clean the recess and tap the tool in if necessary. How do you know if it's necessary? It's necessary.
I use only Torx deck screws with my impact driver because they are far superior to Philips, and won't cam out like Robertson (square drive. yes, they'll cam out. Try using stainless trim screws with a R1 head. soft like butter, usually strip out halfway in.)
I use only Torx deck screws with my impact driver because they are far superior to Philips, and won't cam out like Robertson (square drive. yes, they'll cam out. Try using stainless trim screws with a R1 head. soft like butter, usually strip out halfway in.)
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Fleet Owner
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Rick you're 100% correct about a difference in impact Torx and "standard" which is one reason I suggest hand tools unless its known for certain you have the hardened tools. I have both yet find myself using the hardened ones most often. The occasional head cleaning and light tapping to fit also makes a huge difference.
I always thought the Torx numbering system was somewhat arbitrary---never knew it applied to an actual dimension. Still the best part is they're not designated as metric or SAE as are other threaded fasteners.
As far as camming out I too have experienced that even with Torx although its typical more often with cheap tools. Cornwell does make a great set and when it was on special pricing for something like $119 including internal & external sockets, lifetime guarantee plus handy carry case it was just too good to pass up. Also own a set of SK Tools impact rated that find frequent use as well.
I always thought the Torx numbering system was somewhat arbitrary---never knew it applied to an actual dimension. Still the best part is they're not designated as metric or SAE as are other threaded fasteners.
As far as camming out I too have experienced that even with Torx although its typical more often with cheap tools. Cornwell does make a great set and when it was on special pricing for something like $119 including internal & external sockets, lifetime guarantee plus handy carry case it was just too good to pass up. Also own a set of SK Tools impact rated that find frequent use as well.
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I recently pulled out the benches in my 08'. I broke the first US made bit by hand. The second US made bit broke with a 3/8 impact gun. I finally bought a Lisle "Super Bit" and used a 1/2" impact gun to get the last 3 bolts out. I must have been the first one to ever unbolt them. Needless to say, the bolts went back in with a liberal amount of Anti Seize and only a little more than hand tight.
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Just a follow up.. So far I have been able to loosen the bolts with a T-55 bit using a 3/8 socket handle and a piece of pipe as a cheater handle. Slow stedy pressure seems to work. In some areas I may have to use an extension to get the handle above the bracket do to limited access. I'm still suprised there is so much play in the torx.
Thanks for all the input.
Thanks for all the input.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,011
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From: Maryville
Enjoy, than dam bolts are too long for the application, leaving extra below the floor to rust, really complicating removal, I got out of my wheelchair and laid in the floor to remove all of the brackets from my 15 passenger, I put a conversion bench/bed over the axle. I used a T55, put a pipe on my ratchet, surface rust on the lower end of the bolt made it a strain all the way out, I have a form of putty in the unused holes to leave a smooth floor. I believe the belts are either a T50 or T45, been a while since I've got at them, they can be undone and dropped into the panel inside the wall.
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