So I think it's time to flush my radiator, what is the current consensus on fluid type?

I saw some threads on this forum, but they dated back almost 10 years. Some say peak final charge, it's a 50/50 mix. Some say not to do that. I hope there is a better option, I know it's about an 8 gallon system, I'm standing at Walmart right now and one gallon of this 50/50 pre-diluted mix is 17.95

What are you guys all think?

I have a 2003 F350. 7.3

 

I used Chevron Delo ELC in mine with no issues.

I bought it concentrated. Since the cooling system is a smidge over 32 quarts (8 gallons) I would do a full flush, do 2 drain and fills with distilled water (let the engine run for a few minutes with no thermostat and open the block plugs when draining), install the new thermostat, put in 4 gallons of Delo ELC concentrate, then fill up/top off with distilled water.

I'm a little OCD so that is probably more than most do.

 

I used Fleet Charge...then diluted with distilled water to get the concentration I was after.

 

Hopefully you are not still standing in Wal-mart...

I prefer and use Rotella ELC that comes in concentrate bottles from Tractor Supply Company. It was cheaper that way to mix distilled water in with it when I swapped from "regular" coolant to ELC. If I were to stick with regular coolant, I would have gone with the same approach that Dan V mentioned.

I did this swap ~8 years ago and the price per gallon of concentrate was different than it is now if I am remembering correctly. It was in my favor to go the concentrate route then mix in a $1 bottle of distilled water to make the mixture 50/50.

Hopefully you walked out of Wal-mart with a feeling of confidence or pushed the decision off to another day.

 

Cat ELC.
https://caterpillar.scene7.com/is/co...llar/C10604646

 

LOL, no longer in Walmart, but will have to go back, or go to Tractor supply. I think I'll go to the Rotella ELC.. Right now It appears to have either a red or orange fluid in it. I hope what ever I switch to is fine to switch to. I don't know if this is like synthetic oil where you have to stick to it once it has it.

I would like to do the concentrate, the 50/50 is costly.

I'll go to Tractor Supply and see what they have. I need this done. I got the Truck in 2018 and have not done this yet..

Thanks for all the responses..

Jeff

 

Might be a good idea to do a complete flush, then you can replace it with ANY approved ELC without worry.

 

Thanks Mike. That is definitely my intention. I think I saw several you tube videos that will put me in the right direction..

 

Spray those block plugs a couple of times with PB Blaster a few days ahead of removing them. Really helps out a lot. Check all hoses while you have it drained down. Good luck!

 

If you haven't pulled the coolant block plugs before be careful on the driver's side. There are two plugs near each other. One is for the coolant and the other is for something else (don't know what but I know it's not coolant). Don't pull the wrong one.

The driver's side one is near the oil filter bracket and the passenger's side is near the starter:

 

OEM fill 02-03 was Motorcraft Gold coolant. Interchangeable with Zerex G-05 and Mercedes Gold. Miscible with ELC so if your flush is not perfect, no worries. The coolant longevity will be decreased in proportion. Meaning if you have 10% gold still in the mix, expect 10% less longevity than what pure ELC promises.

So yeah, no worries.

 

2001 PSD Excursion

An added benefit of using ELC coolant is longevity of the water pump. In my opinion with only a sample size of 1. Me.

In 2001 Green coolant was the factory fill for the 7.3 PSD. If you read the diesel supplement that came with the truck, it says to check the coolant with coolant strips and/or add 1 bottle of coolant of Ford VC-? per year. (not sure the exact additive but Ford product made to refresh the coolant)

I replaced the water pump 2x in about 170k using the green coolant and SCA additive as per Ford.

Water pump never changed again after using Shell Rotella ELC (many years and about 180k additional miles driven)

Interestingly enough, in all these years of ownership since new, very few people maintained the Green original coolant or even heard about adding the VCA product.

The Shell Rotella ELC now also is available with a new "nitrate free" version. Shell says these ELC coolants can go 600k miles and can also be extended with a additive to go more miles.

I seem to remember that pre 1999 7.3 may not use these ELC coolants.

Tractor Supply as well as some auto parts stores stock ELC coolants.

The change over procedure by Brian42 (above in this tread) is exactly what I did.

But I like the Shell products. So I used Shell Rotella ELC concentrate. The pre diluted version makes it nearly impossible to get a 50/50 mix unless every last drop of coolant is drained out. Very hard to do by a shade tree mechanic like me. Brian42 instructions above are excellent.

But as luck has it, even with the super extended service life of ELC coolants, i have changed it a few times due to oil cooler service 2x in 36k miles. I know I could capture and reuse the coolant by at less than $20 per gallon (at today's cost) I just used new coolant.

Note: I bought a set of Fel-Pro gaskets for the 1st cooler reseal job. After leaking again within 36 k redid the job with real Ford Parts. Turns out after a close inspection, the Fel-Pro gaskets that I bought off Amazon were either counterfeit parts or just garbage. The real Ford parts came with the green Orings for the cooler and a better gasket to seal the oil cooler assembly.

Buyers beware. Counterfeiters make parts that are needed in high volume. Example: Most any 7.3 PSD will need the oil cooler eventually. Same with spark plugs and coil packs for gassers.

Only buy real Ford parts from trusted vendors like Riffraff Diesel and Tasca. Saving a few dollars cost me big on this repair!

You Tube

Above vid by popular YouTube Ford specialist explains counterfeit parts in detail.

 

The consensus seems to be not to use the 50/50 mix. I did buy 4 gallons of concentrate yesterday. Rotella ELC from tractor supply. Definitely liking that better than what the cost was going to be with the 50/50 mix anyways. It's about half. I don't quite understand it.

Good note on the oil cooler. I guess I need to locate where that is just in case I run into any problems in the future. I did notice that my coolant level is slightly lower than it was a year ago. I bought this truck in 2018 and I haven't touched the coolant. It look like it was in good shape, so I left it alone..

Perhaps I have that cooler leak like you mentioned. If I do it's not too bad yet.

I'm definitely a shade tree mechanic myself. So hoping if I do have to change this cooler gasket it's not too difficult. So far I haven't had any water pump issues.

Part of my reluctance to actually change this fluid as that nothing seems to be broken so I don't want to fix it. Lol.. I fear that changing the fluid might cause a couple of other problems to surface. But the radiator needs to be flushed and fluid needs to be replenished.

I should be doing this tomorrow or Friday..

 

The oil cooler is the tube along the side of the engine that is in front of the oil filter housing.

MARCSPSD brings up a good point. Not only is there a risk of counterfeit with aftermarket parts but with OEM also. That is why I seldom buy auto parts from Amazon. I may save a few bucks but there's always a chance that you will be doing it again.

These trucks like OEM parts and I always bought from a reputable place to make sure I knew I was getting (dealership, RiffRaffDiesel, RockAuto, etc.). I may not have gotten a rock-bottom deal but it was worth knowing that I was getting what I ordered, not some knock-off or counterfeit. As has been mentioned on other threads...buy once, cry once .

 

Thanks for the oil cooler location brian. I really appreciate that. I'm about to get underneath this truck and start pulling plugs and loosening drain plugs...

I just want to confirm though that with the rotella ELC, I do not have to add any additives?. I have a concentrated mix, I have 4 gallons, and then I will add 4 gallons of distilled. But that's all I have to put in there, correct? Should be done here in the next few hours.