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Hello, I have a question for you guys. I have a 2015 6.7 and the barb for the fuel injection return line snapped off, on the filter supply connector like many others have on here I've read about. So I purchased the SPE metallic replacement unit, but I am having a heck of a time getting it to seal on the small barb (3.5mm) FI return line. It keeps dripping fuel and there is not enough room to use two clamps. I have cut the end off the hose a couple of times in an effort to get a fresh end hoping it would seal up but no luck. I have ordered some various parts such a extra 3.5mm hose, a brass barb a new plastic OEM connector and one of the 2017 style return line repair connectors.
Ok, so my question is this: if I still cant get this to seal, I have thought about getting a 2017 style fuel filter and installing the FI return repair connector on the FI return line and just separate it from the supply line connector. Does anyone know of any reason this wouldn't work, knowing I would have to use the newer filter style with three barbs instead of the older style with two barbs. It just seems like with the return line being separated from the supply connector and on the left hand side of the filter, it would be easier to access and less apt to possibly break off, with the discrete connector and the line support clamshell they provide with the newer style filter. Thanks and sorry so long winded.
use a compression clamp. they sell kits on amazon. the best kit is the one that has a ratcheting compression pliers. the kit comes in handy for other hose connection repairs.
Fritz, thanks for the link and suggestion. I will try this. I have PEX piping in my home and it would probably come in handy to have this on hand anyway for that. I have done a little browsing around about these clamps and they seem to be well suited for the job. Most of the connections in my truck are with these types of clamps anyway.
I posted the link with the kit that has the clamp size you need. But the tool is not ratcheting.
the ratcheting kit, does not have the clamp size you need.
agree on the usability of this tool and clamps. I put in a lift kit that had screw type clamps which seem to chew the hose and if the clamps were tightened too much the screw clamps leaked and/or pop off the fitting. I redid them all with these compression clamps using the ratching tool and the job looks oem and works perfect.
i have the non ratcheting version but never used it.
Well, i ordered a kit that has 200 pieces and the manual type crimpers. Then I got a ratcheting crimper as well. Figure i'll use both of them and I can always share with my boys and grandsons. Seem like with all of them driving - Sundays have become a day for a dinner and lots of wrenching, cant beat it. I am getting older but can still lend tools and advice, the young ones are strong as oxen
I broke that fitting off when I installed my S&S DPK, the return filter along with that SPE connector doesn't leave a whole lot of clearance on my 15 model. I think it mounts a little different on the 2016 or 2017 and up. I am thinking about figuring out an alternative mounting arrangement so I'll have some additional clearance while using the SPE fitting.
use a compression clamp. they sell kits on amazon. the best kit is the one that has a ratcheting compression pliers. the kit comes in handy for other hose connection repairs.
Thanks for posting that Fritz. I would have never thought of that. Which size clamp is for that fuel return hose (if it breaks)?
I already have a ratcheting crimper that I bought for the PEX stuff. Looks like I'll have to buy one of these kits to have if I need to install the SPE repair kit that I bought if the OEM plastic nipple breaks. I won't mess around and will go with one of these compression clamps.
Originally Posted by drthomas60
Well, i ordered a kit that has 200 pieces and the manual type crimpers. Then I got a ratcheting crimper as well. Figure i'll use both of them and I can always share with my boys and grandsons. Seem like with all of them driving - Sundays have become a day for a dinner and lots of wrenching, cant beat it. I am getting older but can still lend tools and advice, the young ones are strong as oxen
I broke that fitting off when I installed my S&S DPK, the return filter along with that SPE connector doesn't leave a whole lot of clearance on my 15 model. I think it mounts a little different on the 2016 or 2017 and up. I am thinking about figuring out an alternative mounting arrangement so I'll have some additional clearance while using the SPE fitting.
Welcome Doc.
I have a 16. My filter setup is the same as yours (two fittings). So are you saying the SNAPP filter gets close to that fuel connector (the one with fuel return fitting)/secondary filter on our trucks? I'm curious now as I have the S&S DPK also but not installed yet.
Overkill, yes on our models the metal SNAPP filter bracket and the yellow supply line fitting actually touch when you install the SPE fitting unless you do some wrangling around and you definately have little to no clearance to connect or disconnect the line without removing the 8mm bolt that holds the RACOR / SNAPP filter. I sort of played around with using the metal standoff that comes with the S&S kit for the later models. It raises the filter up about an inch and that seems to be enough to provide some clearance. not a permanent fix, but I don't want to have to remove the return filter that often. I am considering going back to the OEM plastic fitting and sticking the SPE away for emergency use, maybe. The OEM return line is 3.5 mm and the band clamp that comes with the SPE fitting is marked 7-9 mm which is assuming the O,D. of the line. I really like the SPE unit but the clearance with my return filter and now the leak is causing me to rethink the benefit of it.
I am away from my truck this week and next, but once I get back I will snap a few pix and show what I have going on. Thanks for the welcome, just to clarify my name is Dan middle initial R, hence the DR not DOC. ha ha.
Overkill, yes on our models the metal SNAPP filter bracket and the yellow supply line fitting actually touch when you install the SPE fitting unless you do some wrangling around and you definately have little to no clearance to connect or disconnect the line without removing the 8mm bolt that holds the RACOR / SNAPP filter. I sort of played around with using the metal standoff that comes with the S&S kit for the later models. It raises the filter up about an inch and that seems to be enough to provide some clearance. not a permanent fix, but I don't want to have to remove the return filter that often. I am considering going back to the OEM plastic fitting and sticking the SPE away for emergency use, maybe. The OEM return line is 3.5 mm and the band clamp that comes with the SPE fitting is marked 7-9 mm which is assuming the O,D. of the line. I really like the SPE unit but the clearance with my return filter and now the leak is causing me to rethink the benefit of it.
I am away from my truck this week and next, but once I get back I will snap a few pix and show what I have going on. Thanks for the welcome, just to clarify my name is Dan middle initial R, hence the DR not DOC. ha ha.
Thanks, appreciate that information Dan. I picture would be great. A picture would be awesome thanks.
Overkill, yes on our models the metal SNAPP filter bracket and the yellow supply line fitting actually touch when you install the SPE fitting unless you do some wrangling around and you definately have little to no clearance to connect or disconnect the line without removing the 8mm bolt that holds the RACOR / SNAPP filter. I sort of played around with using the metal standoff that comes with the S&S kit for the later models. It raises the filter up about an inch and that seems to be enough to provide some clearance. not a permanent fix, but I don't want to have to remove the return filter that often. I am considering going back to the OEM plastic fitting and sticking the SPE away for emergency use, maybe. The OEM return line is 3.5 mm and the band clamp that comes with the SPE fitting is marked 7-9 mm which is assuming the O,D. of the line. I really like the SPE unit but the clearance with my return filter and now the leak is causing me to rethink the benefit of it.
I am away from my truck this week and next, but once I get back I will snap a few pix and show what I have going on. Thanks for the welcome, just to clarify my name is Dan middle initial R, hence the DR not DOC. ha ha.
I just ordered one of these to have it on hand in case I need it since I will have the S&S kit in at one point as well. Not expensive at $18.95 plus shipping.
I arrived home and fixed two issues : the fuel leak and the clearance issue.
I started by increasing the length of my return line. I got a barb and clamps from Accurate Diesel just the right size and worked great. I will shorten this a little as I have some excess right now. I got the 3.5 mm braided line from the German manufacturer and it is high quality. I then removed the SPE connector unit and used thread sealer on all three threaded fittings. I also used the pinch type clamps thanks to Speakerfritz's recommendation. The leak has been addressed.
As far as the clearance issue I had a idea and it worked really well, I traded places with the supply connection and the FI return connection. This saved about 1.5 inches and no rubs or cramping of the lines, the threaded portions are the same size so it works no problem.
I attached a photo,; but apologize for the crappy focus, I think my ground wire caused the camera to focus on the foreground but you can see the clearance and the return line now goes in the end. The second photo I took on our vacation: When we visited the USS Arizona, there happened to be one of the oil drips that had just floated up and the reflection was somber.
Thanks to all who have helped on this and hopefully this helps someone else. SPE connector with fuel injection return barb placed on the end, SNAPP/Racor filter bracket on the right. Oil drops still leaching from the USS Arizona.
.
Last edited by drthomas60; Apr 15, 2022 at 12:04 PM.
Reason: wrong vendor name
I arrived home and fixed two issues : the fuel leak and the clearance issue.
I started by increasing the length of my return line. I got a barb and clamps from Accurate Diesel just the right size and worked great. I will shorten this a little as I have some excess right now. I got the 3.5 mm braided line from the German manufacturer and it is high quality. I then removed the SPE connector unit and used thread sealer on all three threaded fittings. I also used the pinch type clamps thanks to Speakerfritz's recommendation. The leak has been addressed.
As far as the clearance issue I had a idea and it worked really well, I traded places with the supply connection and the FI return connection. This saved about 1.5 inches and no rubs or cramping of the lines, the threaded portions are the same size so it works no problem.
I attached a photo,; but apologize for the crappy focus, I think my ground wire caused the camera to focus on the foreground but you can see the clearance and the return line now goes in the end. The second photo I took on our vacation: When we visited the USS Arizona, there happened to be one of the oil drips that had just floated up and the reflection was somber.
Thanks to all who have helped on this and hopefully this helps someone else. SPE connector with fuel injection return barb placed on the end, SNAPP/Racor filter bracket on the right. Oil drops still leaching from the USS Arizona.
.
Hey Dan, welcome back. Great pic of that. I cannot imagine what it felt like to be there. A very somber moment I'm sure. I have huge respect for the veterans and current members of our proud military.
Can you do a favor? Do you have a link for the 3.5mm fuel line and would it possible if you could take a few more pics of how that looks when you get a chance? Thank you.
You have depicted it exactly how I did it and I am pretty sure you end up saving 1.5 to 2 inches when including the installed supply line connector if the large barb is left on the end.
I used the two clamps that came with the barb kit from Accurate Diesel to secure the junction of the existing line and the new line on the barb kit. Then I used one of the clamps that came with my Amazon kit to secure the extended hose onto the SPE connector. All is well and two days and 35 miles no leaks or seeps. The best part is that now I can change my fuel filter without having to de-install the SNAPP bracket housing and no rubbing.
The fuel Injection return line vendor is on EBAY and has a huge assortment of hoses. Global Auto Distributors, fast shipping and high quality, maybe just a little costly. But, I ran around town on a Saturday to four auto parts stores and none had 3.5 mm fuel hose.
You have depicted it exactly how I did it and I am pretty sure you end up saving 1.5 to 2 inches when including the installed supply line connector if the large barb is left on the end.
I used the two clamps that came with the barb kit from Accurate Diesel to secure the junction of the existing line and the new line on the barb kit. Then I used one of the clamps that came with my Amazon kit to secure the extended hose onto the SPE connector. All is well and two days and 35 miles no leaks or seeps. The best part is that now I can change my fuel filter without having to de-install the SNAPP bracket housing and no rubbing.
The fuel Injection return line vendor is on EBAY and has a huge assortment of hoses. Global Auto Distributors, fast shipping and high quality, maybe just a little costly. But, I ran around town on a Saturday to four auto parts stores and none had 3.5 mm fuel hose.
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