New to me, but definitely not new; 150,000+ miles and do NOT think those were pampered.
Tried 4wd for the first time since getting it as I drove home from work yesterday.
Switched control on dash from 2H to 4H while rolling slow, maybe 4-5mph.
Saw blue display message "switching to 4X4", then orange "check 4x4".
Moved switch back to 2H and pressed OK to clear display.
Pulled into parking spot in Neutral and tried again setting still.
Same warning.
Tried using my Torque app and scanned assuming I would see code since warning was still showing.
No codes found.
So no help there...
Short time later, driving 10-15mph, tried again, same warnings, then some grinding
Pulled over quick and back to 2WD.
Have not got underneath or looked at anything at all yet, but thought I would ask here.
Any common or known issues to start with?
Not familiar with the set up.
Old school here, more used to 78-79 manual stuff.
Did have to work on our previous 2004 Expedition with it's vacuum solenoids, vacuum hub actuators, and transfer case shift motor.
Anything in common with the 2011 Raptor stuff?
Appreciate anything that I can find out until I check things further.
THANKS in advance ! !

 

It could be a number of things, but it sounds like it hasnt been actuated in quite some time. Does the grinding happen in the front of the truck or the t-case area? If t-case, i would cycle from 2wd to 4wd a bunch and see if it frees up. It coulkd just be gummy from disuse. For good measure, it cant hurt to change the fluid (if its like my limited, its like 2qrts of mercon LV). If the noise is happening in the front, its like IWE issues. They also get gummy from not being used.

We have a 2010ish super duty in the fire department and recently the 4wd stopped working correctly with less than 25k on the odometer. The dealer told us to "use it more". I believe the owners manual also states that 4wd should be used for some amount of miles once a month, so its good practice to exercise it.

 

Switched control on dash from 2H to 4H while rolling slow, maybe 4-5mph.
Saw blue display message "switching to 4X4", then orange "check 4x4".

I think the "SWITCHING" comes on when the transfer case motor starts to move... When the motor moves the lever full stroke then you get the " 4 x 4" light ..... If the level never moves full stroke, then apparently you get the "check"..... Front end does not engage until AFTER the 4 x 4 light comes on.............. seems like transfer case problem ?

 

I would NOT use my 4H or 4L on a hard surface road to get to the end of my driveway unless it's slick like snow or ice covered. I use mine if for exercising the transfer case while in my yard, on grass or like when I'm driving up or down my BIL's steep gravel driveway to keep from throwing rocks, etc. On hard surface roads, only 2H.

 

APPRECIATE all the response !!
It would be nice if just gummed up.
I will keep hoping.
But as mentioned, sounds like noise was from transfer case area...but hard to tell going down the road.
I did get underneath quick this weekend.
Could hear the electric shift motor doing something and moving.
Don't know if enough to engage, or engage fully.
It was still too cold to dig much deeper.
I had starting thinking about a co-worker who had to replace a shift fork type of actuator in front differential of his 2005 or so F-150.
Was wondering about that, but if the warning light shows if shift isn't complete, I may focus there first.
Did look like this truck has the vacuum operated wheel end units.
Saw the hoses and those look similar to what my Expeditions have.
We will have to see...
THANKS for the tips and info.
Didn't get email alerts from my subscription, I will have to check in more often instead of waiting for email.

 

Shift fork in the differential would be prior to 2004.... after that, the driveshaft and differential are always connected, and you DISCONNECT at the wheel ends and the transfer case............. prior to 2005, you disconnect the differential and the axle half shafts continue to spin with the wheels.

 

Thanks again.
I won't look into that anymore than with it being a 2011

I will try seeing if I am luckier than usual and a few more times shifting and trying frees anything up.
Go from there

 

Been trying to shift /engage / and work the 4X4 and trying to see if it frees up at all.
Something going on.
Acts different then it did originally, but still not the best.
First time going from 2WD to 4H it will show warning then go into 4L and wrench stays lit.
Back and forth a few turns and it will get where it is supposed to go but wrench stays lit.
Setting parked it will jolt the truck at first, guessing going into LOW.
Then can hear some clicking noises like the shift motor stripped or something along those lines.
Going to keep trying to see if more activity helps next few days, then hoping weather gets better soon, and pull shift motor and see what I find...

 

Seems different after trying to see if more action frees anything up.
Different, but do not know if better.
Seems to get where I want it to go, but takes a few times of shifting around.
Always gets stuck in 4LO even when just going from 2HI to 4HI
Move switch around and eventually gets to 4HI or back to 2WD.
Think I may pull the shift motor when I get a chance and take a look.
Little list of other stuff; AC blend actuator, some brake work, and look things over see what else.

 

Pulled the tc shift motor off quick this weekend.
Thought maybe I would see the drive end stripped or something obvious like that.
Everything looked OK from what I saw.
Pulled plugs, fluid looked good, clean, and full.
Motor looked like it was rotating and doing what it was supposed to when removed.
Guessing actually shifting the case takes more power and torque than just out in the open.
BUT... still not sure if I know a whole lot more than when I began.
Is it very common for the electric shift motors to fail?
With the luck I have, I will buy a new one, replace it, and have same issue.
Curious how many have had one go bad?

Now to post a few more questions... what to do with the Fox shocks, climate blend actuator, and work down my list.
THANKS as always

 

It sounds like you did all the right diagnostics and found the issue to lie with the T-case and/or the shift actuator motor. For me, I would start by shopping for a shift actuator motor. See how much they are brand new (i would go ford/motorcraft, aftermarket parts are hit or miss) and check ebay/car-part for a good used one (likely the cheapest option). If you put a new/used motor on there and experience the same issues (especially with a brand new actuator), then youve at least eliminated that and the issues likely lie in the Tcase.

I had a shift actuator motor go bad in my 07 Tundra. The dealer had to put a Tcase on it due to the shift actuator motor removal requiring t-case disassembly. The truck only had 70k on it, so it failed from not being used enough in its life.

Guess i should go see if mine works....

 

At least this one is accessible from outside the case

 

Still trying to see if anything "frees up" from use, but have not gotten new motor yet.
Shift once or twice about every time I take off in the truck.
Feels like it tries to go from 2WD next to 4L then tries to get to 4HI.
Anyone know if that is how it goes?
Can only get to 4HI once it clunks into 4L, then turn know again from 4L back to 4HI and it will finally show 4HI on dash, but wrench and orange "check 4x4" lights stay lit.
Still sound like it might be shift motor? weak?
Or something else?
THANKS AGAIN

 

Its really odd that it goes 2H --> 4L --> 4H. From my experience with manual shift T-cases, 4L is always at the "end" of the lever throw. So you can shift from 2H to 4H pretty quick and easy, but it takes effort (via shift lever depression or jogging to the side) to get into 4L. The likely reason for this is so you dont shock the drivetrain into 4L at speed. Getting into 4L should always be done stopped, neutral, or driving very slowly. Electronic shift cases SHOULD operate the same way, but i cant say for certain how the shift actuator works on our cases. It should go 2H --> 4A (engages hubs and clutch is ready to actuate in Tcase) --> 4H (hubs and tcase locked) --> then 4L (hubs/tcase locked in and low range gear ratio is selected). I ASSUME it throws a rod or rotates a shaft to some degree to go from 2H to 4H, then extends/rotates more to engage 4L.

Did you observe how the shift actuator works when going from one tcase position to another?
I am still thinking shift motor issue, but honestly unsure. If the tcase has an issue, i feel you would see some metallics in the fluid, but you already said it looked clean. Mine came out quite brown when i changed it at 100k. Clean red fluid went in.

 

I did pull the shift motor off and had daughter turn **** while I was underneath.
Looked like it was moving and turning like I would have expected.
But I was thinking turning in the air while off the case is probably much easier than actually rotating whatever is inside the case.
I have new motor ordered now.
Maybe try replacing this weekend.